EscapeArtist

I have a late deck or trunk lid (the one with the Roundel), rust free. I am North of Boston and would definitely prefer not to ship this large item. $50. harris_law@comcast.net or my cell phone (978) 204-1202 William Harris. I will be at Lime Rock this weekend if anyone going is looking for this item.

I am in MA and will check the car out this weekend and let everyone know what this is and what he is looking for. I am already knee deep into my restoration (did floors and outer rockers today) so I am not a buyer - even for a Tii.

The Alfaparts site is Wolf Steel in Canada. They are hand made panels (not stamped), sort of rough quality, and they are about $500 for all four pieces. I first ordered these and was not satisfied with them. Wolf Steel gave me a full refund and they were very responsive to work with. I then found out about Walloth u. Nesch and ordered their excellent floor pans from Germany (www.wallothnesch.com) (these are stamped panels with a generous fit that makes welding so much nicer - i.e. they have a big lip) and all four were 288 euro = $365.00 and even with shipping from Germany they were cheaper. Check out the pictures on their web site - this is the way to go.

The blasted shell is home safe and sound - thanks so much Nate!!! I really enjoyed spending some time at your shop - what a wonderful and interesting collection of cars were there!!!

Email sent to the shop and voice mail message left on shop answering machine. I am interested int he blasted shell. You can reach me on my cell phone (978) 204-1202 William Harris

Thanks for the tip. I take many digital pictures of each connection and then draw a very simple diagram of the connectors and each wire as connected - makes things so much simplier when I will be reinstalling the parts a couple of years from now.

I am in the last stages of preparing my car to go up on the rotissiere for extensive sheet metal repairs - floors, A pillars, inner fender supports, inner and outer rockers, both lower rear quarter panels, trunk floor, etc. - this is what us guys in New England have to do to entertain ourselves during the long winters - and one of the last tasks is to completely remove the wiring harness. So far I have pulled everything out of the trunk up under the pedal box, at the instruments and relays under the dash are hanging there and the engine wiring is bagged in front of the firewall. It appears to me that the best approach is to pull everything from the engine compartment into the passenger compartment and then the whole harness is free. I would appreciate hearing from those who having actually removed the entire harness for the method you have used.

Esty: You are right. I promise not to respond to the forum after too much beer and pizza! By the way I hear you are the person to talk to about carpet sets???

I did this today, so it can be done. First you have to remove the instrument cluster. The instrument cluster is held in by the two long bolts on either side of the speedometer - reach behind the speedometer and you can feel the two knurled nuts (round) on each bolt and screw them off. You also have to remove the speedometer cable which is between these two bolts, screw if off. The cluster will now pull out easily a couple of inches and you have to remove the large electrical connector behind the fuel gauge and temp gauge. The cluster can now be removed. The cigarette lighter has two wires going to it - the power is going into the the unit near the center spade connector and the ground is going onto the spade connector at the base. Remove these wires. The center spade connector is held in place by a very small circular nut - I used a very small pair of vice grips and removed this round nut and the positive spade then comes off the small bolt it mounted to in the center. The body of the lighter is held in place by a clamp against the inner dash held in place by a 14mm nut. I used a small wrench to loosen this nut and when it is off the whole assembly can be pulled out from the front. I can post pictures if needed.

Can't believe I found a dash 20 miles from my home. Thank you David, it was my pleasure meeting you today!

I am interested in the instrument cluster. I can do PayPal. Please contact me at harris_law@comcast.net or my cell is (978) 204-1202. William Harris

I am interested in the instrument cluster. I can do PayPal. Please contact me at harris_law@comcast.net or my cell is (978) 204-1202. William Harris

Reply sent. Talk with you soon.

Interested in purchasing two piece dash for 1973 2002. I am in MA 01982 and will also pay the UPS shipping. Prefer very nice dash, but for the right price I am willing to recondition or recover the dash as well. Reply here or to harris_law@comcast.net or you can call me (978) 204-1202. William Harris

I am interested in the dash - upper and lower - I am willing to recondition or recover. Reply here or to harris_law@comcast.net or cell (978) 204-1202. In MA 01982 and willing to pay shipping via UPS. William Harris

I would be interested in the dash panels - upper and lower. Willing to pay for shipping via UPS to MA 01982. Reply here or to harris_law@comcast.net or cell phone (978) 204-1202. William Harris

I am interested in the dash and I am willing to pay for UPS shipping to MA 01982. Reply here or to harris_law@comcast.net Or cell phone (978) 204-1202. William Harris I can do PayPal or bank check, whatever you need.

The guys at Autobahn Performance in Peabody are specialist in Porsche and BMW. I had all kinds of instrument issues with the 73 2002 I acquired a little over a month ago - they fixed them all including taking the circuit board out of a spare instrument cluster to fix the temp gauge and fuel gauge. Of course then I totally disassembled the car 3 weeks later. Go figure.

The guys at Autobahn Performance in Peabody are specialist in Porsche and BMW. I had all kinds of instrument issues with the 73 2002 I acquired a little over a month ago - they fixed them all including taking the circuit board out of a spare instrument cluster to fix the temp gauge and fuel gauge. Of course then I totally disassembled the car 3 weeks later. Go figure.

OK, at the end of the lock clinder (looking inside) I see what might be a lock nut with two notches at the 3:00 and 9:00 o'clock positions - but no amount of tapping (and not so gently) with a screw driver and hammer has caused any movement. I am afraid any more force will damage the sheet metal. Liberal application of PB Blaster made and we will see if anything moves tomorrow.

I am preparing my car for media blasting and want to remove everything. I am having trouble figuring out how to remove the truck latch/lock button (you know the thing you push in to open the lid). I see no nut inside the truck and the cover on the outside does not seem to come off to reveal a nut - so how does this come out?

This can also happen if you have a bad or weak ground on the main ground strap from the battery to the engine block. I had this problem and when I replaced the ground strap it was gone.

There are many sources for nice reproduction floor pans. In the U.S. there is BluntTech and Maximillian Imports. In Canada (Quebec) there is Wolf Steel Reproductions (www.alfaparts.net) and in Germany there is Cahsel - most of these sites are on the links page.

Don't have invoice with me (and I bought an inner rocker and kick panel - all for the driver's side which was really bad) - but I believe the floor pan was either $225 or $250.

I would be interested in the fender and will drive to your house to pick it up - cash in hand from MA this weekend. Please call me to discuss condition, your address and best time to meet you. William @ (978) 204-1202.