adawil2002

Meanwhile...when well maintained 1988 Cadillac Sedan DeVille with the Aluminum V8 blows a head gasket at 77K miles & the Service Department says "Wow, 77 thousand miles is the highest we've seen. Head gaskets on those usually fail before 40K, we don't bother replacing head gaskets so your engine is toasted"

1992 Chevy Suburban 1500 did a little better making 85K before the body & the frame were no longer connected. I actually miss that Suburban, it was the '02 of trucks. Rear wheel drive, big greenhouse, defined corners, nimble for its size & could fit a full 8 x 4 foot sheet of plywood or drywall in the back.

My wife's first car was a 1989 Chevy Cavalier 4-door automatic "Sign & Drive Event with guaranteed financing with a College Diploma!" The Catalytic Converter failed at 89K miles in February 1998. The repair was worth 3 times the car's value.

I leased a bare bones 1999 Chevy Cavalier 2 door, 5-speed, AM/FM radio, no AC for $96/month for 36 months.

December 21st 2001 I bought a 1997 M3 Lux with the burl wood trim, Harmon Kardon 6-CD changer, heater sport seats louvered lower grill, 5-speed with 32K miles.

I returned basic Chevy Cavalier with under 6K miles.
GMAC called me asking if I was interested in leasing another Chevy. I said "No, I just bought a BMW M3" I heard the *click* they never called back.

Still have the 1997 M3 today.   

Zaprace in the U.K. has 2 types of Box-Flares, Schnitzer & "Club Race" Zender.

I had stock springs, anti-sway bars with Bilstein HDs

Bought the IE Stage 1 Springs which are linear rate & put on the big blue anti-sway-bars. Liked the anti-sway-bars. found the Stage 1 Springs are too short for the HDs & needed to be seated when after being on  a 2-post lift.

H & R Sports are progressive rate & work perfectly with the Bilstein HDs/B6s combined fixes negative camber plates with the big blue anti-sway-bars is the preferred 2002 suspension set up. Exceptional roadability for spirited drives, comfortable around town & on the highway. I've had this set up since 2018 & still great now Depending on your wheel offset, may need negative front & adjustable rear suspension kit.

Can always go with coil-overs. Highly recommend contacting Vintage Sports & Restoration at vsr1.com.  

Do you change your own oil on your 1973 2002Tii?
If so, do you disconnect the battery before removing the filter?
I learned this "shocking"lesson on the first oil change.

I still have the original alternator & carry a spare voltage regulator.
Buy one of these as Mike Self & Rob Siegel recommend. 

I have had to re-crimp 2 alternator wires. One pulled out of the crimp with zero effort & the other had only 2 strands crimped as the other strands had fractured over time.

 At least you aren't stranded in Germany on the side of the A3 Autobahn with a dead 1973 2002Tii being chastised by ADAC for 3.5 hours for calling from an "American" phone instead of a Deutsch phone. The short story, spent 1300€ or $1407USD for the ADAC Flatbed, Taxi round trip from Aachen to Leomar to Salzberg for a Tii battery & alternator. Installed the battery & alternator voltage at Idle was 13.7.

Do not use Permatex for fuel tank rubber.

It's OK to use a very thin layer of Silicone Grease or Water Pump/Bearing Grease only to make reinstalling the Fuel level Sender slightly easier to install.      

A new Level Sender O-Ring.

New Fuel Pickup Flat Gasket, best to install the washers & bolts only finger tight at first. Then tighten by 1/4 turn in a "star"pattern to tighten the gasket evenly similarly to tuning a drum head.. If starting at the 12 o'clock bolt, then 6, 3, 9 then , 1, 7, 10, 4, etc.

The Condor Gelb 2002 Cabriolet in this thread belongs to Dirk & Alexandra de Groen.
Carl Nelson has handed the 1600/2002 Registry to Dirk.

One of the Chamonix 2002s belongs to Christian Silberhorn from Nurnberg Germany. He has an incredible collection of BMW cars from 1918 to 2002  & motorcycles from 1923 to 1976. He has the finest collection of motorcycles, scooters & a few bicycles manufactured in Nurnberg.

Not sure who owns the other Chamonix or Polaris 2002 Cabriolets.

BMW & Baur built 1892 Voll 1600 Cabriolets from 1967-1971.

Terry Sayther's Turkis is a 1600 & also has a 1973 Chamonix Targa.

There's a Chamonix 1600 Cabriolet that regularly attends Mid America '02 Fest.

My 1968 Granada  1600 Cabriolet was imported from Japan in 2003.

Carl Nelson's Chamonix 1600 is the federalized U.S. Spec cabriolet. The car is named "Katy Perry" as it was in the Teenage Dream music video.  

Aligned my hood many years ago, I approached this from my experience building door & window frames & shimming them just shy of plumb & dead level so they tend toward the closed side. 

With all the grills out & the hood closed & locked. I wedged narrow Cedar Shingles above the Turn Signals. Then loosened the 6 hood support bolts so I could move the the Cedar Shingles forward & back to fine tune the trim reveal from the front of both doors & across the front of the hood. When I had that set I tightened the 6 bolts. Unlatched the hood slowly to be sure the peak of the nose trim didn't hit the center grill.

One could loosen all 12 support & under hood bolts to shim & tweak for even reveal lines then tighten all 12 & test, then readjust if necessary.  

Back in 1989, when I drove my 1973 2002 daily, my future wife & I used to bet how many '02s we'd see on our road trips from the North Hills of Pittsburgh PA to Darien CT or North Yarmouth ME. We'd regularly see 2 to 3 each way.

Fast forward to May 10th 2010 when I my present 1973 2002 Tii & names him Vern. We drove 3200 miles without seeing another '02.  

Even with Veronika, Vern & Athena very well maintained.  

The FAQ & E9Coupe only BMW forums I visit daily with the main goal to help anyone & everyone with solid good advice either from my experiences or professionals.

My wife & I own 8 BMWs & I have accounts on a few other forums I never sign in to, BMW CCA, E36 M3 &  Bimmerforums. 

Rarely if ever on the archaic MyE28 anymore, my 1988 M5's restoration, problems have all been resolved & now nearly 100% reliable.

After 14 years, I logged off FaceBook & Instagram putting an end to the eternal-time-sucking-plague-of-social-media. I am greatly enjoying being anti-social. Now I go outside & talk with real people.

Living in the Perpetual Winterlands of Maine, a heated garage attached to the house is a necessity! We have the common Maine Vernacular, heated Big House, Little House, Barn (garage) & unheated Chicken House, Woodshed & Carriage House.                    

As one who regularly drives my 1973 2002Tii on long trips across the U.S. & spent September 2021 Touring The Netherlands, Germany & Austria.

If your '02 is well maintained, that will lower the risk of any catastrophic mechanical failure.
Know your '02, how it smells, sounds & feels. Being familiar & aware of what's happening will serve you well.

Recommend a 2500/Bavaria Trunk Caddy/Bin. It fits perfectly on the drivers side between the tail light & the shock tower support rib. Bob Kaufmann, tilux@aol.com   

Regularly carry.

2 Quarts VR1 20W50

Small Yellow Funnel

Blue Paper Towels
Glass Cleaner
CA Fuel Filter Adapter

On longer trips I add.
Tii Water Pump

Mahle OC25 Oil Filter
Extra Crush Rings
Hazet Oil Filter Socket

Noco Boost Pro GB150 

Here's what I carry regularly in my toolbox.

Extra Hood Roundel

2002 Tool Roll with Tools

1/4 inch metric ratchet set

8 mm wrench

10 mm wrench

19 mm Wrench

Small Allen Wrench

Small screwdriver

Regular Screw Driver

Phillips screw driver

Needle Nose Pliers

Blunt Nose Pliers

Throttle Return Springs

Various Hose Clamps

Various Light Bulbs
Fuses - 4 extras are in the fuse box cover
Voltage Regulator

Fuel Cap

Oil Cap
Fan Belt

2 K-Fish Belts

Tii Tuning Tools -Pump Lock Rod, Throttle Pin & 85mm Jig

LEDs, there's part, if not all, of the problem. These cars are meant to have incandescents.

Could be the light switch or the rheostat is turned all the way counter clockwise, a disconnected wire or a failed switch.

Fuse 2 blowing means there's a compromised wire or connection creating a short circuit creating heat enough to blow the fuse.

 It's highly recommended to add a grounding wire to the rear two brass knurled nuts on the back of the Multi-Gauge. Use 2 U connectors one for each nut, a disconnect insulated spade joint & another U connector under the dash. I tend to use the heater core stud. The simple ground harness is this.
U___U_________><________________________________U

 Both front Turn Signals are grounded by the two mounting screws.

All other grounds are medium brown wires.
Check the wires at the Alternator both bail wire plug & ground loop (may need to re-crimp ground)

In the Engine Bay, the Yellow Tape Voltage Regulator has a ground at one of the screws.
Tail lights are grounded on the metal housing.
Under the trunk boards on the center rail is another ground.

If your headlights have a small  5 to 7 watt "City Light" at the lower part of the headlights, be sure the push in bulb connector is pushed in fully. If this becomes dislodged it will ground making a short circuit & blow fuses immediately.

So happy for you @JKKH ! 

Sincerely hope you are able to join us for The Mid-America '02Fest in Eureka Springs Arkansas April 29th to May 1st held at Inn of the Ozarks  at 207 West Van Buren. 
 

Southeast SharkFest is April 26-28 in Richmond VA.

Mid-America '02 Fest is April 29-May 1 in Eureka Springs AR.

Unable to attend The Vintage in Asheville/Hot Springs again this year.
 

Verona/Tobacco was available in Europe in 1972 & 1973.

My U.S. Spec 1973 Tii is Verona/Tobacco.

Rear resonator is 5 inches behind the lower rear panel & hangs on the stock rear mount. The top of the tail pipe is 1 inch from the bottom of the rear panel. VSR eased the lower panel flange above the tail pipe the height of the the bottom ogee edge of the panel, look closely of the photo, you can see it.    

23 hours ago, SydneyTii said:

Does the Sebring fit up tight or close to the rear panel it’s a bit hard to see from the angle of the pic, it looks really great on the car.

No, there are 2 inches of clearance before the rear panel.

Sorry to hear of this. Heartfelt condolences.

 

I've only hit dead ends with any progress to make embossed nose trim affordable.

FYI Andy Andexer in his eighties now. At the end of the 2021 Bavaria Tour Oberammergau that September he announced his retirement from hosting another tour. He encouraged his family to carry on with the Bavaria Tour.   

Glad you're rescuing this NK it's an exciting time!

What was the 1992 "problem"?

Cleaning is the easy part.

Everything else depends on time & money.

I'd reach out to the Bay Area NK owners & get in touch with North Bay Bavarian & Bill Arnold's shop in San Raphael.

6 weeks until everything starts in Pacific Grove.

Hope to see the car there. 

The 1972 & 1973 tii have the 121 head. The head on your car or the engine is from a 1.8 liter 1982 320i. A lot has happened to these cars over the past 49-57 years both good & at times bad. Many times the repairs receipts have been lost to history. 

Have you or someone else has replaced the gas pedal with a newer one recently?

Remove the pedal & test the bare linkage for stiffness, if that's easy, then clean the pedal & nubs & should be better.

The new pedals are completely covered in rubber, including the area which is meant to slide at the back of the pedal. Check that, if there's anything other than smooth metal, that's your problem. Then use a lubricant like WD40 Graphite or Garage Door Lubricant Spray which doesn't attract dirt.

If all that doesn't eliminate the problem, continue to clean from behind the pedal box up the linkage.

        

When buying the 123, add the helically milled spindle to your order. I prefer the  switchable version. I'm not one to mess around with modifying distributor curves.  

To add to Mike Self's suggestions.

Check to make sure all of the connections in the alternator plug are clean & secure. 

Advise putting a new connector the ground wire. Thought mine was good but only held by 2 strands.

Not sure about the 1976s.

Under the voltage regulator, double check for a brown wire with a loop. That should be secured by one of the screws & is generally under the voltage regulator against the inside fender.   

Distributors are wearable parts. My original distributor weights were cutting into the housing. I have seen weak springs allow the weights cut the body in half. I was running a Pertronics at the time & the metal filings caused a random stumble.

Used an IE distributor for 6 months then, bought the 123 in 2015. Bought the switchable version because I  have no interest in anything other than the stock Tii curve.

Now I have 123s in my 1968 1600 Cabriolet, 1973 2002Tii & 1973 3.0 CSi. I recommend them as a decent alternative to having an old one rebuilt for the same cost.