amdavidson

NM/NA

I saw this on craigslist, appears to be a Baur, but I am definitely not the expert on the topic...

Might interest someone.

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/2318922335.html

I uploaded photos to Flickr: http://www.flickr.com/photos/amdavidson/sets/72157626267342882/

Let me know if there are any other specific ones to take. As far as I can tell all the suspension pieces are in the right places.

I rolled the car front and back by hand and noticed that it seems to bind up and then pop. I tried to feel where the popping was coming from with no luck.

I loosened the radius rods in the front and at the control arm and tried to roll it with no change in the motion. I then re-torqued them with the car still on the ground and there was no difference.

I lifted each corner off the ground and tried to feel for looseness, the wheel bearings did have a small amount of play vertically but not horizontally. I followed some suggestions on this board for how to tighten them and now they don't have any play at all and still spin freely.

I'm not able to feel any lateral movement when I try to move the hub and flex the suspension and vertical movement is just spring compression.

The car is low enough that I can't get a torque wrench and box wrench in there when it's on the ground, when I torqued it loaded before I did it with the car resting on it's tires on blocks so that I could get a bit more space underneath it. I'll try that again later if needed, but I don't see why they would be binding without the suspension traveling...

Anyone have any other ideas? Questions I can answer? I'm at a loss.

Do both front tires do the same thing? At the same time? What about if you move it 10', does it stay where it was at 3-5" or repeat?

Both front tires do it symmetrically. Makes me think that something I did intentionally was wrong and I need to correct it. I didn't just happen to leave one bolt un-torqued.

It does not repeat in the length of my driveway, maybe 40 feet or so. It doesn't seem to have a sort of binding and relieving sinusoidal effect.

you have got to have some thing major loose or installed incorrectly. that isn't from tightening off the ground.

can you take a post pics of all your suspension parts? hard to diag without visual.

I'll try and get pics tonight, should have been the first thing I did.

I love patina cars like yours, but how do you preserve it?

Matte clear coat over it? What do you do to prevent surface rust from turning into cancer?

So if we roll the car back and forth multiple times, it keeps changing from + camber and Toe Out to - camber and Toe In, and Vice Versa? How far do you have to move the car to see Max + to Max - on Camber? Can you pull the front wheels towards the front and rear (is there any play in the suspension)?

Close, if you roll it back and forth maybe 3-5 feet it will transition from very positive toe and 4+ degrees positive camber after rolling backwards to fairly good toe (maybe +1/8") and 1-2 degrees of negative camber after rolling forwards.

It seems that I can repeat as many times as needed.

It never quite gets to 0 or negative toe. What is the recommended toe? I assumed 0 but wanted to consult the hive mind.

I need to try pulling on the wheels to see if I can force it, I haven't checked that yet.

Just to be clear, you ARE talking about the front end, right?

First, preloading the bushings (or not) won't do this. Might affect ride height a little, and maybe bushing life, but it's not going to make your

dynamic suspension settings change.

Second- are you sure the spacers on the inner ends of the lower control

arms are in the right place? The spacer provides the 'sleeve' extension

so that the bolt can clamp the bushing. The bolt should lock itself

solid when you clamp the nut.

Third- center the wheel and set the toe yourself with a tape measure.

It's as easy as measuring from the same tread block on each tire, front and

back, and adjusting the measurements to match.

Might not be exact, but it'll be damned close. That's what I think is going

on- you're so toed- out that your suspension's jacking itself up.

You're on stock springs, right?

The body curves make you think you're close, but they actually

don't run parallel to the centerline of the car in the front.

You can also use a string- tape it solidly to the back side of the back tire,

then stretch it forward, and adjust the front tire so that both sidewalls

(front and back) just touch the string at the same time.

I use a laser pointer to do this- it's usually within a sixth of a turn

or so when I'm done. Takes 5 minutes.

If that doesn't do it- or if that turns up another problem-

then it's time for pictures!

hth

t

I am talking about the front suspension. I am not running stock springs, I installed H&R Sport springs during the rehab.

Is the spacer you're talking about the shim (#11) in this exploded view?

I think I have everything installed correctly, but I'll check to be sure that this spacer is in the right spot when I get back to the car.

When I have just set the car down, or it has rolled forwards the toe is pretty close, not right, but pretty close. It's only when I've rolled it in reverse a couple feet that it gets bad.

Sunday got away from me so I wasn't able to make any progress, but thanks for the suggestions. With resources like you guys I'm sure I can work it out.

The bushings came pre-installed in the new control arms.

I torqued the control arm pivot bolt and the radius rod both at droop and loaded after I lowered the car to the ground. I did not loosen them in-between. I'll try that tomorrow unless someone else says not to.

I have not done an alignment... I will drive it to an alignment shop as SOON as it's capable of driving the 10 blocks to get there.

I'm in Sunnyvale.

So I rehabed my entire suspension and brakes and am FINALLY about to get her back driving again before I tackle the engine bay.

The brakes and rear suspension seem to be working great as far as I can tell, but I notice that when I roll the car backwards out of hibernation the camber and toe go WAY positive.

When I roll the car back forwards in the driveway the camber goes just slightly negative (where I expected it to be) and the toe goes back inwards. The toe never gets quite right, but as I installed a new center link and tie rods, I assume I just didn't match them up quite right and need an alignment.

Any ideas?

During the rehab, I installed new control arms, a new sub-frame thrust bushing for the radius rod, new ball joints, new bilstein sport struts, new H&R springs, new strut bearings, new swaybar bushings, new swaybar end-links, new tie rods, and a new center link.

I've already torqued everything while it was on stands, and i just retorqued the radius arms, control arm pivot bolts, strut piston nut, and strut mount nuts while it was settled on the ground in, what I believe, is the right position.

I really want to drive my car, but am not sure what else to check. The suspension is pretty basic, I can't figure out what could be loose and moving.

It really depends on the role/manager/your personal aptitudes.

Shoot a resume, can't hurt.

I don't think that Georgians are subject to the same draconian laws on their 76s as we Californians.

I don't know what kinda job you're looking for, but we're hiring.

The jets and holders are both different.

You cant swap the jets in the holders, and you cant swap the holders on the sides.

FYI for anyone who wonders this in the future.

My Haynes Weber manual shows the same jets on both sides, but this redline page says that the early carbs had matched idle jets and holders.

The later carbs had different jets on the choke and inlet sides.

Here are the part numbers for everyone's reference:

74409-xxx Idle Jet (choke side)

74403-xxx Idle Jet (Inlet Side)

I started to rebuild my weber 38/38 today with new jets and pulled out the idle jets to replace them and found that they were two different jets.

The one on the left is matches the exploded view and the jets I bought based on the parts list online.

The one on the right came out of nowhere.

Does this look right to anyone? Are there different versions of the 38DGAS that have different idle jets?

Thanks gurus!

Interested in the trunk lock if it comes with a key.

Are you willing to ship to 94086?

Totally agree. It's not about the modification of the air cleaner.

It's about settling on the 38/38. Once I get it running and if I like it, I'll modify the cleaner to keep a stock appearance and get some cooler air.

But if my MegaSquirt fantasies continue, I'll want to preserve the air cleaner as it's still in pretty good shape and could go to a good home.

I'm prepping to install a Cannon intake manifold and Weber 38/38 carb on my 2002.

I'm currently running an 32/36 and an unmodified stock filter assembly.

Until I've got the 38/38 running right and I'm sure that I want to keep it, I'm going to run the smaller aftermarket air filter assembly, then I'll look at modifying the stock one so that it fit/seals over the 38/38.

What should I do with the valve cover vent until then? It currently runs up to the stock air cleaner, but I don't see a way to run it to the new filter assembly.

What have you other folks done?

Thanks.

I bought some parts from AutohausAZ to try and correct the issue.

New booster hose and check valve didn't do anything. So I started to replace the reservoir hoses and realized that the new grommets I bought don't fit...

Do I have a non-oem master cylinder?

The only markings I can find on it is this:

The old grommets can't be put in because they disintegrated upon removal. How do I get some that'll fit this MC?

Thanks in advance.

You got a key for the trunk lock?

I'm in the south bay and could pick it up.

Interested in the straight 002 distributor. If there's no known issues with it.

I'll bring $50 to wherever you are in San Jose.

Started the tear down of the carb looks good. Manifold looks good too. It'll all get installed after I get the brakes and exhaust done...

That's the truth. They came with the car. You should see the terrible looking hack job they did to make it fit the driver's side.

Once the car is weather proofed again I'm planning on ordering a nice set from Esty.

Until then...

What pickup is in the distributor? Is it a mechanical advance or just missing the vacuum pots?

My trunk lock was replaced at some point and I didn't get the key for it when I bought the car.

I'm almost back on the road and need a way to lock my spares and tools in the trunk.

Who's got a trunk lock and key they can part with?

Let me know the price shipped to 94086.