amdavidson

I'm selling my 1975 BMW 2002. I've got to move and I can't take it with me so it's either sell it or store it. I'd rather see it go to someone who will drive it.

I've had it for three years and have done a lot of work in the last year to make it a very good driving car. There are less than 1000 miles on the following:

De-smogged

Cannon 2 barrel intake manifold

Rebuilt weber 38/38 manual choke

Weber chrome air cleaner (original, unmodified air cleaner included)

TII (002) distributor (original vacuum retard distributor included)

New points, cap, and rotor

New plug wires

New OEM valve cover gasket

TII exhaust manifold

E30 M10 exhaust gasket

New in box thermostat

New IE sport engine mounts (rubber)

H&R Sport springs with original springs included

Bilsten sport dampers

New strut tower mounts

New rubber bushings at every joint

New subframe mounts

New swaybar endlinks with urethane bushings

New control arms

New tie rods

New ball joints

New OEM master cylinder

Rebuilt calipers

PBR pads

BMW brake fluid

New OEM rotors

New OEM drums

New wheel cylinders

Z3 shifter and custom knob

New Guibo

New 318i transmission mount

14" BMW bottle cap wheels with new OEM alloy lug nuts

195/60R14 Dunlop Direzza Star Spec tires

I'm also including the following as spares:

Weber 32/36 carb with water choke

Electric choke for Weber 38/38

1 liter BMW Type 200 brake fluid

Fan belt

Original control arms and tie rods

Master Cylinder

Thermostat

Valve cover gasket set

PBR brake pads

5th bottle cap with good but mismatched tire

13" steely with OK tire

The car isn't perfect there isn't cancerous rust but there is surface rust and the car will need to be sanded down and painted. The brakes also need to be adjusted and squeal a little under very light braking, but stop the car very well.

I also have two brand new, never used Corbeau GTS II seats with the proper Corbeau D146T adapter rails for $500. I paid $850 for these so you're getting a deal.

The craigslist post is here: http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/cto/3900062456.html

An album of images is here: http://imgur.com/a/u9a8K#0

Call or text at 407-703-5583, PM me here, or email me andrew@amdavidson.com

Year: 1975

Make: BMW

Model: 2002

Body and Interior: Good condition. Vinyl is mostly intact. Dash has a crack. Door cards are in good shape. Carpet is faded. Seats are losing their horsehair.

Engine and Drivetrain: A lot of new parts listed in the main post. Many bolt on upgrades.

Suspension, Brakes: Completely refreshed with H&R Sport springs and Bilstein Sport shocks and struts.

Did you ever have any luck finding a shift knob? I have a 76 2002 that has a Ireland Engineering short throw shifter and looking for a wooden knob myself

I didn't find a wooden knob that I liked (or that was in my price range).

But a friend hooked me up with an e30 knob that fits pretty well and doesn't look out of place.

Good luck on the hunt.

Are E21 Recaros any lower than the stock seats when both are in good condition?

Does anyone else know any good, low-profile seat options?

thread on same topic from just two weeks ago..

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,57/page,viewtopic/t,372510/highlight,seat+mount+sparco/

I saw that thread. I guess I should clarify.

The GTSII seats don't fit between the stock rails so I can't drop it down in between them. I would love to be able to do that, but I think if I bought thinner seats I wouldn't fit... I weigh a good bit more than the guy in that other post.

I suspect that if I cut out the stock rails the floorpan will lose a lot of stiffness and building that up is why the cost was high. I don't think they're trying to price me out, they're a pretty well known shop in the area for doing roll cages and custom stuff for race cars.

I hear the speedo inaccuracy but what I am suggesting is that it has nothing to do with speedo/tach. On a 50mph highway I was showing 45mph @ 3k rpm and cars were passing me by like crazy. Motor was 'screaming' as it would at 3k rpm.

Even if its a tach issue - the motor was not running @2k. For that sound, I would have to be going at least 60 as stated by other posters. So we know there is a problem not with the guages, but with motor and how its revving so high at such 'low" speeds. I am mentioning other options (dizzy) because I honestly don't see a broken tach/speedo as the answer.

Imagine for a second that you're cruising along in 4th gear. The wheels have to spin X number of RPMs to hit that.

The wheels are mechanically attached to the diff, there's a gearset in there so it makes the driveshaft spin XX times per revolution of the wheels.

The driveshaft is mechanically attached to the transmission and the transmission has gears in it that mean the crankshaft has to spin XXX times per revolution of the driveshaft.

Nowhere does the timing affect that.

I can't say whether your tach or speedo is wrong, but it's not the timing as the timing cannot possibly have any bearing on how many times the engine turns per rotation of the wheels, it's not in the mechanical linkage.

Diagnostically, it's sometimes nice to have clear fuel filters in the car so that you can see whether your lines have run dry or fuel is flowing and which route.

When I was having carb troubles (flooding not starvation) I think I had three of them in there at one point, they're little windows into your troubles.

I want to install some seats in my car that aren't putting my head literally through the sunroof.

I'm not crazy tall a little more than 6'1" but it's mostly torso height.

With the very worn out stock seats (no horsehair or foam left just sitting on springs) I am just below the roof.

My wife bought me a set of Corbeau GTS-II seats and the adapter sliders and now I can't sit up without opening the sunroof.

I got a quote this morning to cut out the stock brackets and fab custom ones that will mount the seat at the floor. Came out to be 5-6 hours of work at $120 per hour.

That's a lot of cash and I wanted to see if there were any other options. Are there shorter seats than the GTS-II that I could use? I would like to be able to wear a helmet in the car at some point and need about 3 inches less height than the Corbeaus are giving me now.

Is that a reasonable cost for fabricating custom mounts?

I had a weird tink sound coming from the driveshaft and determined (with Blunt's help) that some real funkiness was going on with my shifter setup. I had thought it was just extremely worn, but there were some home-brewed parts in there from a PO.

Blunt shipped me out some new bits including a Z3 1.9 shifter and it's as good as new (or maybe better).

Now I need a shift knob. I've googled around, searched here, and on bimmer forums as well as hitting up Pelican, IE, BavAuto, and AutohausAZ looking for push on knobs that don't have 5 speed or 6 speed patterns on them.

Anyone have any suggestions where to get one? A 2 inch round wood knob is ideal, but I'd be interested in most anything that doesn't lie about how many gears I have.

Anyone have an old knob lying around they'd like to move? Can I commission a wood knob from anyone with access to some woodworking tools?

Thanks in advance.

I reposted the craiglists posts of the stuff I have so you can get access to the images.

I just posted an weber 32/36, intake manifold, exhaust manifold, smog pump, and steelies on cragislist.

All of it was pulled from my 1975 during the rebuild and needs to get out of my garage!

Weber 32/36 ($100):

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/pts/2825709881.html

Intake Manifold ($40), Exhaust Manifold (free), Smog Pump (free):

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/pts/2825709138.html

I would prefer not to ship anything, but you may be able to convince me.

I'll remove them from this post as they've been sold, so if you see it here, it's still available.

UPDATE: in digging further in the jeep forum, it does prevent vapor lock, but I con't find info on whether it recirculates all the time.. like when the floats close the valve. Still digging..

During install, I tested using this with the return line plumbed to a gas can. When the float was full it pumped a LOT of fuel into the can in a very short amount of time.

UPDATE 2:

Here's a pic with a 32/36. this is how I imagined using it, only before the pump.

It appears that it does what we need, just make double sure to install it with the return line in the 12 O'clock.

My routing is almost just like that into my 38/38. Why does it need to be in the 12oclock position? Mine is somewhere around 2:30 and seems to be OK?

Have you been able to locate any info about how the filter works?

Looks absolutely identical to the one that I have. I havent been able to find any information as to how much pressure it will build up before it starts diverting though. So watch for emptying of the float bowl.

I havent seen any issues like that with the Fram version. Just went on a long sporting drive through the hills about an hour ago and she ran like a dream.

On my 75, there are two plastic lines and a hard line.

One plastic line is fuel that is sucked from the tank by the mechanical pump under the hood. The other plastic line comes from the evap system and it's unused. There's also a metal hard line running down the frame rails on the driver side of the car that I used for the return.

Everything seems to still be running great with that setup.

Just to report back and close this thread I'd like to say that the G3583 filter worked wonderfully and solved all of my issues.

If anyone finds this in the future with the same issues give it a shot.

you can use an old Jeep fuel filter, the "over pressure" is built on it. It has 3 nipples, 2 large (in/out) and a small one (return). i know its not oem, but it will work and is damn cheap. ask for a 1977 CJ7 filter. 5$ at local parts store.

That looks like a great solution, I don't place much importance on OEM. Functionality and simplicity win out for me.

How are you guys stepping up from the 6mm fitting on the pump to the 8mm fitting on the Weber carb?

I'm currently using a filter with a 1/4" fitting and 5/16" fitting on opposite ends to do that, but this filter has 5/16" on either end and would be installed in the same place. Two fuel filters I can dig, three is starting to get excessive.

Any thoughts?

The needle is brand new, but I'll try pulling the line to the carb.

I suspect that it's over pressuring the needle valve like you say, but I was surprised to see it because I've seen cars that run the same fuel routing as I with the mechanical pump and don't see over pressurizing.

Should I be looking at getting a bypass regulator if over pressurizing seems to be the issue?

Do you have the return line hooked up? On carbed cars, I believe there is a "didta" valve so something to that effect, which takes excess fuel and runs it via the metal return line under the battery box. I disconnected this valve once, back when my car was carbed, and I had the same symptoms which you are describing now.

I do not have the return hooked up, it's sealed off with a bolt and a hose clamp.

The valve for the return is vacuum activated if I'm not mistaken, and I don't have any vacuum ports on my cannon manifold to use with it.

Or is there another way to set it up that I don't know about?

Oof... No replies.

Let's see if a little bump to the top gets me any suggestions.

My 38/38 seems to be having issues.

It idles well seems to drive well, but is having a lot of issues with hot starting.

I'm currently running two fuel filters, one before and after the stock mechanical pump. After letting the car sit while warm, I can see both filters start to empty. At first I thought this was a vapor lock issue, but it's not all that hot here, I'm running the phenolic spacer and it doesn't seem to go away with application of cool water.

I pulled the top of the air filter and looked down the carb and the driver side throat was full of fuel and I could see it dripping in. Assuming it was a float issue, I adjusted the floats again, probably a bit conservative on the shut off to see if I could really get the needle valve to close when the float bowl was full.

But it's still doing it.

I'm not running a fuel pressure regulator, and have no idea of what the pressure is. I'm just running a straight line from the pump to the fuel filter to the carb.

How do I ensure that the needle valve is closing? I read about sinking floats, is there a way to test this? I read my weber carb manual and it doesn't seem to be too helpful in this case.

Thanks for any ideas.

EDIT: The car will start after this happens with WOT and a little extra cranking, but she sure doesn't seem to like it.

I started the car, set the engine to 1400 RPM and found a bb in the direction you mentioned.

The surging problem has gone away. Thanks for the help

I'm planning on running more cam and higher compression, but I don't yet have those parts.

But quite a few other people have reported that they have 38/38s running on stock engines as well, so I don't think I'm way out in left field.

So to get the distributor installed, I pulled the valve cover, found TDC with the mark on the cam sproket, and also checked that both rockers were floating, and installed the distributor with the rotor aligned to the notch. (The exact same as the cam gear method you linked to)

I also also looked down the sight hole in the bell housing and tried to find the BB this way and that's how I sighted this groove in the flywheel.

Is JimK saying that this groove is not where the BB was and that I need to look for something 25 degrees retarded from there?

The car is 25 degrees late because I set it at 2500? or because I should not be setting it at the groove?

I'm a little confused.

The groove that I was seeing seemed to be repeated several times around the circumference of the flywheel.

The car seems to idle well, and run well at part throttle, would that be the case if my timing was off my 25 degrees?

I dont seem to have a ball on my flywheel anymore... I put the car and pushed it all the way through several compression cycles looking for it (I have a long flat driveway).

So I used the cam gear to find TDC, and noticed the flywheel had a crease at TDC, (presumably where the ball once was?)

I then used an engine analyzer to rev to 2500RPM and set the timing with a light and that crease.

I should probably also mention that I installed a new cap, rotor, condenser and points which I gapped to .016 inches.

As part of a greater engine bay/de-smogging effort, I just finished install of the a rebuilt Weber 38/38, a Cannon intake manifold, a Tii exhaust manifold, and a 002 distributor. I then adjusted my timing and tuned the idle mixture using the redline instructions (http://www.redlineweber.com/html/Tech/38_dgas_tunning.htm)

Took her for a short drive and the throttle response off idle is great, cursing at light throttle is great, but if you goose the throttle it surges up and takes a while before returning to idle.

Here's my jetting:

Idle Jet 50

Mains 135

Air Corrector 180

Emulsion tubes F-50

Anyone have any ideas? I'm a little stuck.