autoaloha

i like the mags. are those the original option ones?

i have two grounds on mine, which i think is stock way. one to the engine block and a smaller one to the frame. Def. try cleaning those up and there should be some room to just trim the end and reattach like any other wire. I know any autoparts store sells replacement grounds too. clean the terminals (male and female clamp) too. good luck.

I just tried ignition start with the fuel pump line direct into a Monster can. No flow. So if I assume that the fuel pump is working then there must be a blockage upstream of the fuel pump. and this is truly a newbie question, I will search again, but where is the fuel filter. From what I can tell the fuel line disappears into the firewall. Gosh I hope it's the fuel filter, I know I need to learn, but I really don't wanna remove and replace the carb on the street. But I appreciate the carb info, I am still leaning towards replacing the Solex, but hopefully I can do that later and just get the little guy running so I can take it to the base hobby shop under its own power.

oh, no... it's a Solex. and a Solex rebuild kit costs ~$90 evidently. That's why I am thinking of just replacing it with a rebuilt Weber for maybe an extra $100.

Ok, so my car died. again. I bought it only about a month ago, and I noticed that the cr wanted to 'lag' or hesitate when I applied throttle and RPMs would droop then pick up and away it would go. This really only happened in first (it's an automatic by the way), and it responded well in other gears. The car once died on me a few weeks ago and after removing the top of the air filter case I could see that the port butterfly valve was stuck ajar (in the throttled position, as it can't actually reach full shut). I just pushed it aside and the car started okay and drove fine for the past two weeks, but still displayed the hesitate and lag from time to time. Yesterday, it died while driving home from basketball. It was fine getting there, and then as I left the engine just idled down and shut off. When trying to restart the car the engine would fire a few times, progressively less with each attempt until no firing took place. (suspect then was fuel delivery for me)

I cleaned the dist. contacts and checked the plugs. Everything appeared to be fine. I don't believe spark is the issue. The starter is working and the the engine wants to run, but I really think no fuel is the issue.

Tried disconnecting the hose from FPR to carb and got very little flow when I tried ignition start. I just removed the fuel pump and it looks very clean inside, the diaphragm is intact( no leak from drain), and the mesh screen is free of debris.

So, what next? The car is 99% stock, with no mods other than a new battery and wiper fluid res. and maybe some brake pads/shoes and misc. hoses.

No recent work has been done either and I just ran a can of Sea-Foam in the tank to clean the system. Oil does not smell like fuel.

Is it time to rebuild the carb?

If I am gonna spend $100 to buy the rebuild kit I may as well go 32/36 or side draft 40s like I want. What do you guys think?

i assume you've sold the carb setup from feb. ? if not, email me kpfritz@hawaii.edu thanks!

i assume you've sold the carb setup from feb. ? if not, email me kpfritz@hawaii.edu thanks!

booyah! I was lookin for one myself a few weeks ago!

http://www.bmwmobiletradition-online.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=2223&mospid=47140&btnr=51_3343&hg=51&fg=40

it's part number 12.

enjoi!

just bring your floating trailer mainlanders!

http://honolulu.craigslist.org/big/pts/1257081741.html

but do you know the style or model? I just dont want to get ripped off. I set an email to recaro USA and got an auto reply that they were closed for the next ten days. I guess business must be pretty slow. so i cc'd to recaro UK.

yeah, they're in a porsche now. The guy claims he's trying to sell them in order to put the 'correct' seats into his porsche which he told me he was trying to sell. He said 'i've seen them for 2K on ebay'. I knew they weren't the seats that i've seen on:

http://home.earthlink.net/~jennyscott/accessories.html

where did you find that Ferrari pic? I've been trying to find anything that could tell me what type of seats these are so I can know what is fair to pay for them. If they fit they'd be a nice switch from the sloppy stock seats I have now( although I would love to stay all stock, the stock seats are just a little too expensive to restore when I think about how at best they'll still be below average comfort)

the guy i was gonna buy them from says that they're '60's era BMW seats, and were a dealer or factory option, but they don't look like what I've been able to find online. thanks again!

imho its not even that good looking. i'd rather stay stock.

and if so, how much do you guys think they're worth?

yeah, i was going through the

'links' section and there's a bunch of crap in there that need to be cleaned out as well as seemingly defunct sites that don't really have anything for sale. the moderators have got to clean up the links

i'm new to the 2002 community, can anyone steer me in the right direction? I need to find a place to buy new rubber for the doors and windows. I also want to rebuild my carb, I found a kit on ebay for about $60, but I'm not sure if it's good or bad deal? I'd appreciate links to online stores with good prices and service. thanks.

the butterfly wasn't resetting itself. I just mechanically released it from a stuck position and then it operated as normal after some rough initial idles that lasted roughly 2-3 minutes. Very simple fix, & I knew something looked funny about the carb choke earlier. so i guess i solved the problem, thanks to all who responded.

picked up a fuel filter on the way home.

maybe this is it.

from : http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,57/page,viewtopic/t,324408/highlight,automatic+transmission+problem/

Turns out it was the choke mechanism - althought the cable was operating correctly, the mechanism on the carb was seized, thus not closing the throttle. The spring on the choke mechanism is a bit weak so was just compressing rather than allowing the choke plate to close

The result was that the damn car wouldn't start and ran like a bag of spanners when it did until it had warmed up a tad.

While I was there I checked everthing else and cleaned various jets and orifices and inserted a new fuel filter. All good now.

maybe? what do you guys think?

mmm ok dumb question... how can i check if the carb is getting gas?

its not out of fuel, just filled it up two days ago, but that would have been embarassing to say the least!

why would it be the ignition? i'm not trying to question your idea, just curious as to your reasoning. a miss( which would be what your talking about right? or am i off base?) why would it quit on me like that, while downshifting? Along with the tendency to want to die( really low RPM dip in which i can hear the engine slow down) when i give it some gas after a stop or coast.

oh yeah, and the mileage seems to be about 22mpg (but that's a very small sample, just filled up 6.5gal and then did the math- that's my only data- just one)

I've got a pretty good set of tools in the trunk (like i said, i just bought it), and if you're serious, i'd really like the help. that is, assuming I don't get it running between now and then. I'm in Waiks right now trying to find the answer, since sitting in the ward garage scratching my head didn't seem to be very effective. So...i will call you after you get off work. -ken

but if anyone has any input please send it my way! thanks!.

so, i'm sifting (and searching) through old posts, and I'll probably come across the answer some time tomorrow... but my car quit on me and I need some help!

So... I've got a 74 automatic. It's pretty much all stock as far as I can tell with maybe a few replaced hoses and plastic bits, but nothing noticeably un-stock or performance like. 76k miles. and no recent work, but the PO had the brakes worked on about 250miles ago. (i bought this car last week)

the auto transmission wants to act up. it kind of pulls and then lags after initial gas from a stop or when downshifting(i believe, since it will happen if i coast down then apply throttle again)

as I was pulling out of a parking garage i drove about 50m and then the car just died. I tried to start it again and it was turning over and ran a little before dying again after a few seconds. did this about three times then didn't even want to begin to run.

i pushing it into a parking stall with my girlfriend steering( and laughing at me...) i tried the old WD-40 into the carb trick, (i hope that's ok). and it started for a few seconds and died again. So I dont wanna get it towed because it was running fine all day and i'm pretty sure it just needs a little coaxing.

any ideas or diagnosis would be great. thanks a lot for any help in advance.

and i'm in honolulu, it's parked at the ward center...(for da locals)

and how do you know if there's more than 99,999 miles?

the #'s stay in place, you do not turn the #'s, so you start where it left off.

Scott

what does that mean? would it read 99,999 forever, (this would be the 'numbers staying in place', or does it 'start where you left off', i.e. the next mile would read 0, and then 1 etc... ?

and what does 'you do not turn the numbers' mean? I'm sorry, I just have no idea how those statements mesh...

and how do you know if there's more than 99,999 miles?

that sounds like it'll look good. I am new to this forum and don't know what you're looking for here, but I'm pretty sure that'd be an easy photoshop job if you'd want to mock it up. if you're asking about how difficult it would be to actually do the powdercoat the aluminum itself (i.e. the job), then any decent powdercoating shop can do that type of stuff no problem, it's wheels and engine casings that have issues as the process of heating the metal can weaken and possibly provide failure catalysts for stressed components. does that answer your question, or did you want DIY instructions? (better hit up the library for a book to check out on techniques in that case)