calicolorado

+1 on Ronin Autowerks

That car is for sale at a dealership in La Habra that my family has done business with. We sold there on consignment a Jaguar XJ8 for an elderly family member and they were good to work with. I met Phil at an event in Fullerton and he's a pretty cool guy from the UK, no question that he's an enthusiast. That '73 has some good things going for it-DCOE's and looks clean. Interior is a bit of a mismatch but that's not too hard to fix. Looks like originally a Malaga car.

That wheel can also be found in earlier E28 535i’s. My in-laws have an ‘84 build (‘85 reg) 535i five-speed that has that wheel. It is a great wheel and I love it in that car despite the now crusty leather. I had the car for a few days in February and am trying to figure out how to re-home it into my garage :)…

Well, I ended up using a 1/16” punch and small hammer to deform/mushroom the rod end over the link as some here have suggested. It isn’t the prettiest outcome but it is perfectly serviceable and did no harm as evidenced by a nice 30-ish mile drive around the area.
 

I was careful and didn’t cause damage by using too much force- fortunately the rod seems like a softer metal. Ideally I think drilling and tapping the end would be best, and I may do that when I rebuild the carb someday. 
 

Thank you everyone for your advice/suggestions/wisdom, I appreciate that others have had this issue and we’re able to help me. Hope all have a great weekend of driving!

Ah, makes sense! Certainly explains why there isn't something in the parts diagram-it's not supposed to come off! I'll see if the mushrooming approach is feasible, but I'm not sure what level of force I might have to apply to do it. Would not want to damage the casting or something else. I'll take a look again at it and consider some JB Weld-sounds like it's worked here. Thanks, folks for the responses!

-Brendan

Good evening, all!

I have a Weber 38 DGES (electric choke) which I have been quite happy with but have been having trouble with a specific part of it. There is a link connecting the electric choke to the choke valve that pops off and leaves the choke valve uncontrolled. This is causing my car to run poorly, and to keep it running at stoplights, I have to keep my foot in the throttle while in neutral. I have looked at pics of the carb, at parts diagrams etc., but I cannot figure out what retains this link to the choke rod/pivot. The 'D' shaped end keeps it rotating properly, but there is some lateral play in the linkage that, under vibration, allows the link to jump off. There is a circlip at the other end of the link, but no hole or groove for a pin or circlip at the 'D' end. Has anyone had this issue and if so, what can you recommend to remedy this? Thank you for any and all help!!

-Brendan

10 hours ago, AceAndrew said:

That is so awesome.  Cannot wait to do the same with my boys.

 

Maybe some trunk or treat fun as well.

 

I remember my best friend’s parent’s classic Ford truck, great great times to pass on to the next generation 

Yes! Just like it was passed to us, the cycle shall continue! You will love it and they will remember it forever.  The whole experience with the ‘02 is thrilling-they can actually SEE out of them unlike most modern stuff. I contrast it with our otherwise great but snoozy Toyota Highlander: “you can go places in anything, but why not make it fun?”

I’d definitely participate a SoCal ‘02 trunk or treat! We do that with our YMCA Adventure Princesses/Father Daughter program every year and there are some fun cars in attendance 

1 hour ago, Markster said:

I tried Aardvark, VViViD+, and Frog chrome vinyl over the past two weeks.  I liked the VViViD+ the best.  Still a very challenging solution.  Adhesion and cutting are where I had most difficulty. 

 

 

 

That looks first class! If my door cards didn’t have speaker holes cut by a previous owner, I’d consider trying this approach. That is a timeless color combo found today in the ‘23 BMW’s!

I found some ‘new’ bestickered zero mile Michelin Defenders in 185/65/14. They are coded a couple years back but they are a country mile better than the used n’ abused 2003 Yokohama YK420’s I bought in college. Yikes! In the spirit of this being my college car, I keep it thrifty.
 

Also fulfilled a long held dream by picking our girls up from school in the ‘02. Definitely created some smiles, this bright orange spectacle, among the multitude of people haulers. We cruised around and got some of their favorite slush drinks before starting homework…
 

Also installed a new inline fuel filter and adjusted the idle this evening. 

Is this still available? 

Took our youngest to Cars N Coffee in Tustin and enjoyed meeting another FAQ member and hearing about his ‘71! She helped me finish the front bumper install-first time since 2008 that my car has worn its bumper…when I bought it, it had ‘73 brackets so it’s nice to have it all the way it should be. Big day for my ‘02…feels like it’s finally getting to where I’d like it to be after too many years. Had a really nice sunset drive out in the hills and canyons of North OC/Hacienda Heights. 

I can confirm that flipping the calipers over (“center” bleeder on top) will remedy this. After three power bleeds and one the old fashioned way along with some rear drum fine-tuning everything is functioning as normal. Pedal feels firm and has normal travel. Enjoying my dust free ceramic pads now!

I played “patina or paint” years ago with my car but decided that the hole-y front fender and door lowers, sprayed with all colors of Rustoleum were not patina, they were shit. So I embarked on a many year misadventure, learning all things 2002 and missed out on just driving that damn thing. I’m glad I did it because I’m happy with how it turned out, but it was hard-newly married, bought house, had two kids etc etc. Took me SIX years to get it driving again!

Someone said here: never take a car completely apart and I think, in retrospect that is sage advice when contemplating “patina or paint.” From these pics, patina might be really cool-do a thorough mechanical resto/comb through and get the interior dialed maybe? I dunno if that’s good advice, but it’s my .02…

Discovering this thread years after the orig post…gotta love the FAQ!! I have no pedal after three complete bleeds after exchanging my seized junkyard Girling calipers with some freshly rebuilt beauties. Realized tonight that I put ‘em on upside down! I’m guessing that having the ports flipped is problematic for proper function…If I have success after flipping then over I shall report back.

Really enjoyed this video, thank you! I’m always amazed to see a car in this state of decomposition. Salty roads just really hammer things. Maybe one day when 2002’s are even more scarce, someone will take it upon themselves to revive one of these guys…

Technically a couple days ago, but finally had a break from holiday activities to post! I got her back on the the ground after replacing rear drums, shoes, wheel cylinders and parking brake cables (which I have had in a cabinet since 2006), adjusted valves and finished a comb-through/careful reassembly of the front suspension. Front end feels nice ‘n crisp on the road!

I used the epoxy primer as the sealer. An easy medium-ish coat. It’s nowhere near as thick as poly primer so it flows out pretty well and will run if you don’t keep the gun moving. Once this coat cured, I wet sanded it to 800 grit, thoroughly cleaned it with surface prep and started the paint process. 

The order from bare metal was:

1) metal etching primer

2) epoxy primer

3) poly primer and filler w/bodywork & blocking

4) epoxy primer

5) base coat paint

6) clear

Some folks do their bodywork right on bare metal but Iearned another way and have had good results. I used a Harbor Freight $35 HVLP gun for everything up to final epoxy then used an IWATA gun. The HF gun is actually great and I have done two stage paint jobs with it. 

I used PCL 2K epoxy primer in med/dark gray to seal in the bodywork (PCL poly primer in buff, UPOL filler), wet sanded it to 800 grit and applied 5 coats of Colorado orange base. Paint was BASF Limco, clear was PPG Deltron. I had the color matched to the original paint in the doorjambs with a number of spray out cards and evaluated it in sunlight to fine tune. I think it looks pretty accurate and the primer color worked out fine IMO. That was back in Oct 2015 and it’s held up with no issues aside from a couple road chips. 

I have a model that I built in Alias about ten years ago. These pix are quickie Bunkspeed (now SW Visualize) renderings. I have the rendering model used to make these rendos on my current laptop but the Alias file is on an external at the office. I'm happy to share the Alias CAD (.step, .iges, CATIA v5 etc)  when I get my hands on it. I can write out a .obj or .fbx from Visualize but you won't be able to build anything super high fidelity from it.  It's decent, but not a perfect representation. I also need to build bumpers and trim for it. I'll see how my day goes and knock out a few new renders this pm...

Anyone interested can zap me a message and I'm happy to share

-Brendan

Those pics did not disappoint. Amazing how a crank can snap like that!

I installed birthday present to myself-a Momo Prototipo! The turbo wheel I have will get a refresh and I will begin my search for the correct horn button and hub shroud. Also installed a 5mm phenolic carb spacer, something I should have done a long time ago. Now it fires right up like it did with the original Solex. Lastly...affixed the paint code decal which has been sitting in my cabinet for ten years(!). I haven't driven her for a good while (8-9 mos maybe) due to work travel, soccer coaching and the carb issue, so getting back on the road at this strange time felt great, especially with the empty roads!

6 hours ago, abrokenframe said:

I still have it. 

 

-Ryan

Excellent!! I could pick it up on my way home from work in Irvine tomorrow or Wednesday if you like.

I'm interested in the turn signal stalk if it's still available.

This door is original to my car and was replaced during restoration because it has rust through on the bottom. It can be repaired or used as an inexpensive replacement. The door closed with a proper thunk and has no significant dents. I need this gone asap and really don't want to throw it away if I don't have to. Free.

Please feel free to text me, Brendan @ 714-267-4491. Pickup only in or near Fullerton, CA.

Thanks!

What a great time, I had some interesting conversations on things both '02 and otherwise, what a great group of people to hang with! This was the first time I've displayed my car after a seven year restoration (still things to do) and I was so happy to get my car there. Without this group and website it would have been an insurmountable task.