wagnerf15

That does not suck. I'm interested if you get to that point.....

Open the choke butterflies (if closed) and see if the throttle butterflies are lodged open (bottom of the carb neck). Perhaps they stuck...is this a new Weber? Did you clean it up and ensure everything was moving right? That sounds like the most likely culprit.

Isn't it pronounced, "white"?

I had a 77 Mercedes 280E with a mechanical fuel injection which had the exact same problem. i finally found a vacuum hose that was dry rotted and leaking....when i replaced, problem went away. That was after length trouble shooting in the electrical system.

HTH, Wagner

To answer your question, Bavarian Auto sells those. No preaching here...

I have completed all the chassis, and drivetrain work...to include 5 speed swap and 3.91 lsd. If you need help or anything, give me a buzz. 636-262-4281...Jim

It's the floor pan for the trunk. I can see a line drawing on Maximillian, but haven't ever seen the part in it's real form. Looks like it has the spare tire hole and cut out for the gas tank, and perhaps goes from fender to fender. That's about all I know. Are you talking about making the part? I'm in St Louis and would be willing to travel to figure this out. Don't wanna break the bank for parts right now....

Anyone? My 74 is in poor shape due to sorry right rear fender repair in it's past life. Don't know if they are different year to year....Thanking you....

Both of these techniques work beautifully and easily.

IS the oil can method the bottom up technique described in this forum? If you haven't done it, do that first. WAY easy and effective. When i replaced the whole shitterie, i bled that way one time and clutch has worked perfectly every time. I think it is far superior to the old pump and add fluid to reservoir method with regard to filling both the cylinders.

Assuming your reservoir is topped beyond the clutch line level, sounds like you may have a leak somewhere in the line. Hoses and lines all in good order and serviceable?

Haven't heard anything in a while....how's the project? My 74 is on the road as of 2/4/09 and I swapped all the bushings you are talking about. If you want to get together and look at the completed project, fire me an email or call 636-262-4281. I'm home til Sunday...

Jim

Very nice!!! You did good work.

Good point, hadn't thought about that one...

I wouldn't go shopping for pistons based on what that motor OUGHTA have. These things are frequently modified, so it's worth a trip to storage before you go spending big bucks. All you have to do is look for the stamping on the side of the head.

If this whole problem started when you started dicking with the driveshaft, I'd have to say that is the root of the problem. That being said, you may have related problems.

First, the driveshaft needs to be straight or you will have thrumming, thumping, vibration, etc. Lots of smarter people than me have posted about this (I know C.D. has several posts about this) and you should search for that one. The basic idea is: it should be a straight shot in both axes from the transmission output to diff input. You can imagine the issues if this isn't the case.

Second, the shifter is mounted to the transmission via a platform attached to bushings. I'd guess your bushings are SHOT if this vibration is bad enough that you can't touch the shifter at 50. Easy, cheap fix. Again, though, something has to generate this vibration to transmit to your shifter, so attack the root problem first.

Old water pumps can get REALLY hard to turn (bearing failure, etc) and slip on the belt. This will, on occasion, cause the fluid to circulate much more slowly than normal . They really aren't that hard to check/replace.

Plug wires are normal (as you mentioned in first post). If you've got the electrical shit all checked out, I'd look close at BigJim's advice. The Weber is pretty simple. Plug all vacuum holes and do a baseline adjustment (look at RedlineWeber.com for your model...probably a 32/36). But if your ignition is okay and you can't get it to idle with choke off, you've gotta have a plugged idle jet. The engine running when you open the throttle butterflies is the big clue to your problem.....

Won't be hard at all. Just get a good manual (one that shows order of reassembly) and/or take good pictures and notes. It's very intuitive after you dig in.

It will go in...just takes some maneuvering. And CD brings up a really useful point....remove battery and anything else dangling in the way (mine was easier with dipstick removed too). Good luck, have fun.

I totally understand what you mean. My 74 looks like a pile 'o shit (unless you look underneath, then it looks brand new) but I CONSTANTLY get positive comments everywhere I drive it. These things must elicit good feelings in everyone!!! I know it works for me

Yeah, they are kinda pressed in. Knock one out and you'll see what I mean. You could definitely re-use with no damage

Jealous of your workspace bro!!! And the car looks great too.

I think you're doing great. I've prolly got close to 8-10k into mine and it only looks like this!!! Haven't spent a penny on the body yet. I reckon that's another 8-10k. That being said, it's the most fun driver I've ever owned and I enjoy every second of working on it (okay, almost every second). Now that I'm in it every day, I get comments from people strolling down memory lane everywhere I go. Wouldn't trade it for the world....

Hey Esty, if you end up finding something that you are happy with, will you please post? My old blue cordouroys need some recovering and it hasn't bubbled to the top of my list yet, but is lurking...