doug73cs

The width including the bumps as per your photo is 3 5/16". The plastic cover that goes over this is 3 3/4" in the middle and about 3 1/2" at the front and rear so it bulges out a bit in the middle.

Doug

More photos of the shifter. Not sure what you sure asking about on the opening. The sides are parallel so roughly 3" x 4 1/4" regardless where measured.

The car was produced in 04/1976.

http://s54.photobucket.com/albums/g120/decoupe/2002%20Auto/?start=20

More photos of the shifter. Not sure what you sure asking about on the opening. The sides are parallel so roughly 3" x 4 1/4" regardless where measured.

The car was produced in 04/1976.

http://s54.photobucket.com/albums/g120/decoupe/2002%20Auto/?start=20

Hi Pat:

The opening is 3 1/16" x 4 3/8" clear inside. I'll try to get the shift assembly out tonight.

I've added some more pictures to the 2002auto file. Just click on the same link to see.

http://s54.photobucket.com/albums/g120/decoupe/2002%20Auto/

Got delayed on dropping the front/rear sub frames - duh.

This link to photos I took that might help you. Let me know what measurements you need or additional shots as I take the shifter out.

http://s54.photobucket.com/albums/g120/decoupe/2002%20Auto/

I'm converting a '76 auto to 5 spd so have a fully functional complete set up I don't need. Need any pictures to compare the set up? Anything you need measured? Want the shifter? Linkage?

Let me know.

Esty - email sent.

Thanks

Doug

Thanks Martin - great advice!

Doug

Thanks Martin - great advice!

Doug

Looking for recommendations on cfm and horsepower to run some air equipment in my garage. Probably a small sandblast cabinet, die grinder, sander/grinder. Looking to avoid overkill/undersize.

Any recommendations appreciated.

Doug

Looking for recommendations on cfm and horsepower to run some air equipment in my garage. Probably a small sandblast cabinet, die grinder, sander/grinder. Looking to avoid overkill/undersize.

Any recommendations appreciated.

Doug

I assume the suit is Nomex.

I assume the suit is Nomex.

Urathane motor mounts would probably help keeping the motor from moving forward but does diddly for the fan flexing.

Anthony - I'll go look at the car on the lift. I get the point about the jack tray and blocking the car up but having trouble visualizing raising the car off the subframe when the track width of the front suspension is wider then the opening between the two lifting panel trays, even with the wheels off.

GD - I'm doing an auto to 5spd swap at the same time as the suspension rebuild so the engine needs to come out as well. Interesting idea you have there.

Great post on the rebuild.

How did you drop the front subframe out of the car? The rear sounds pretty straight forward with a floor jack but to clear the engine and tranny the car would have to be jacked way up. I've got a car stacker but the design means the wheels are on/over the trays so I can't just unbolt and lift.

I'm sure you can find another auto for less but what will you spend getting it to the equal of what Peter is offering? A full repaint is $5k assuming no body work. An engine refresh is $2k minimum.

Talk to the guy (CoupeKing) and check out to car in person. Get a knowledgeable person off the FAQ forum to accompany you - I'm sure someone would be willing if asked. Make an informed decision. It may cost you a LOT less in the long run.

Thanks. So the same issues of verticle and horizontal alignment apply.

I've been following the thread on trany mounts for 5 spd transplants earlier. I'm going to switch from auto to 5 spd soon. Anyone know if the stock cross member tabs in the automatic are the same as the stock 4 spd? I know there are differences in the tunnel (wider).

Thanks

First thing you need is a manual. Haynes are pretty good and while they won't recommend brands (other than BMW) the instructions are logical and in the right order (usually).

I'm trying to get a Saturn 5 booster in mine but like hydrogen, the solid fuel isn't available at the pump so I think I'll stick with gunpowder.

Thanks for the great info.

I haven't done anything yet (just bought the car in August) and plan on pulling the engine in order to do 5spd conversion. I'll do the full check before adjusting anything but there is certainly room for improvement.

Thanks to both.

Doug

I have too much play in my steering - maybe 1 1/2" left and right with no binding, clicking etc and no movement in/out. Smooth action.

To adjust, it looks like I release the nut on the steering box and turn the screw in - right? Just so there is contact or is there some limit I should be aware of? How much play should I look for when properly adjusted?

Thanks.

First thing I bought for my 2002 was a wiring diagram from Prospero - get the right year.

http://www.colorwiringdiagrams.com/bmwcars.htm

I have a not bad but a little tired 1.8l m10 out of a donor 320i that I'm going to modify the head and bolt onto the 2.0l in my 76 Sahara. Eventually I will probably bore out the 2.0 l block to 2.2l, higher compression/forged piston set but in the mean time I'm looking for advice on the best set up for the refurbished head with a stock block.

I have 4 complete 38/38 webers with manifolds so will use that carb for now. Is a 292 cam appropriate on the stock 2.0l compression block? Any other things to consider? Bigger valves? It already has a Tii exhaust manifold.

This car is currently an automatic and I read somewhere that they were a little higher compression. Anybody now if that is true?

Thanks