kstrause

Thank you for the discussion on the wheels. I may try spacers. Since I know the 5" steel wheels fit can I assume a .5" spacer will work with the 4.5" wheels? Will the studs be long enough, or will I need longer ones?

Wanting to return to an "old school" look for my 72 Nevada 02, I acquired a set of 4.5"X13 solid steel wheels and a decent set of hubcaps. I painted them, got new center stickers for the hubcaps and installed them. Got the rear ones on and tried to fit the fronts. Unfortunutely I forgot that a previous owner, who used to autocross the car, put tii brakes on. Didn't realize the 4.5" wheels wouldn't fit. Now I've got to decide if I should return the original brakes (which I think I have in a box buried somewhere) to the car and keep the wheels, or keep the current brakes and put the 5" wheels back on. Lesson learned.

Thank you, that's a very tempting offer. I may take you up on it if nothing pans out a little closer to home. 

Kurt

I recently acquired a nice set of hubcaps, so I'm now looking for a set of original solid steel wheels. Prefer a fairly local pickup in Central Pa., MD, VA.

Kurt Strause

Looking to buy a differential for a 1972. Does not need to be limited slip. Open, stock is fine. Prefer pickup within 100 miles of Lancaster, PA.

I'm looking for a driveshaft shop fairly close to Central Pennsylvania that can shorten, weld a new flange and balance my driveshaft. Has anyone had any experience with someone in the Mid-Atlantic area? Thanks.

Kurt Strause

Looking to convert from an "early" style shift selector rod to a late model selector as part of my 5 speed conversion project. Email at kstrause at comcast dot net.

Kurt Strause

Lancaster, PA

Location: Lancaster, PA USA

I'm looking for a 3 bolt flange from an E21 that I can weld onto my existing 2002 driveshaft for a five-speed conversion.

Kurt Strause

Location: Lancaster, PA USA

Looking to buy a clutch fork for a Getrag 245 and a 3 bolt flange to weld onto my driveshaft.

Location: Lancaster, PA USA

Oops. Sorry about that. I recently changed service providers and my email changed. I've updated my profile with the new one. It's kstrause at comcast dot net.

Kurt Strause

Well, right now I don't have anything. Starting from scratch. So, I guess I need everything needed to make it happen. What do you have, as specifically as possible.

Kurt Strause

After 4 happy years of driving my '72, I've decided to start the process of sourcing the various parts needed for a 5-speed conversion. So I'm putting out the WTB on the major pieces: transmission and an upgrade from the standard 3.64:1 differential. I'd consider the 3.90:1 or a limited slip. Preferably I'd like to stay fairly local to my home in Central Pennsylvania and not deal with long distance shipping. But I'd be willing to drive a couple of hours to look and pick up.

If you have anything that would be a candidate please contact me at: kstrause at comcast dot net. Thanks.

Kurt Strause

Thanks for all the replies, I appreciate it. I soldered a little jumper wire on the switch from the spade bit that turns on the headlights to the spade bit that turns on the dash lights. I don't have the dimmer function but the dash lights now work.

c.d.-thanks for the dimmer advice. I took out the switch and sprayed about 1/4 can of tuner contact cleaner in there rotating the knob. It still didn't seem to help. I can live without the dash lights dimming. They're not that bright anyway.

Kurt Strause

Thank you, but I've come up with a workable solution.

Kurt Strause

I need one that looks like the picture. It has the wires bound together in a single plug that fits onto the switch. Does anyone have one for a reasonable price?

Kurt Strause

Here's a picture of my headlight switch which I believe has failed as far as sending current to the instrument cluster lights. The switch works in turning on and off the headlights. I have continuity from the wire that plugs into the switch back to the cluster, and I have continuity between the cluster bulbs and the pin to which the round plug fits on the back of the cluster. So, I think its the switch. Do these things fail in such a specific manner? This switch feels pretty beefy and seems like it would be the last thing to fail on the car.

I cleaned the switch well with contact cleaner, but there doesn't look like there's any way to take it apart and check it further.

I've probably answered my own question, but if anyone has any ideas before I go over to WTB I'd appreciate it.

Kurt Strause

Here's where I had my Becker Europa rebuilt. They did a nice job.

http://www.beckerautosound.com/

Thanks for the replies. My '02 was my first attempt at taking an old car and making it drivable. Along the way I kept thinking to myself, "I bit off more than I could chew." The only thing that got me through were the resources from this board; parts, encouragement, that body of knowledge which resides in numerous others who traveled down the road ahead of me. So, I'm a little reluctant to take on a project where the knowledge base and the resources aren't as deep as they are for the beloved 2002's.

I suppose the appeal of these 700's is that they are that much more rare and the satisfaction that might come from saving at least one (for that's my initial thought to take two and turn them into one good car) and bringing it back on the road. I get a lot of comments (as do all of you, I'm sure) like "wow, I sure which I still had my 2002." I think it might be kind of cool to hear, "what in the world is that? A BMW? No way."

Kurt Strause

And I use the term loosely. Came across these in a shed in back of a local mechanic's shop. They are tightly packed in among an assortment of MG's, Fiats, maybe an old Toyota (I think). It's hard to tell exactly what condition they're in because they're buried behind several other vehicles. I imagine the usual caveats apply to these cars as to any other old BMW.

Is there any appeal to these? I mean, does anyone even drive them? I can't say I've ever seen one, though there is at least some information out there on the web. But what about parts, community support, that ill-defined "awe, look how cute that tiny car is."

And then there's that rip-roaring two cylinder boxer engine. Zoom zoom.

Still, there's just something a little crazy about this that's getting under my skin. Talk some sense into me.

Kurt Strause

Andy,

Send me your email address and I'll send this code. My email is

kstrause at verizon dot net

Kurt

I painted my 72 in its original color, also Nevada. I used PPG paint as well. We found a code for lacquer, sprayed a sample and then took a spectrometer reading and came up with a match for basecoat/clear coat. I have the ratio for the various pigments in a file somewhere. I'll look them up and send them to you.

Kurt Strause

Hello Esty,

I sent an email regarding front mat set #8. Did you receive it, and did I possibly miss your reply?

Kurt Strause

And door seals are $201. I don't think they've come down.

Kurt Strause

I'm about to replace the toasted rear end on my 72 non-tii. I recently purchased a replacement open diff from a 73 or 74 tii (can't remember which) that has the half shafts attached. I notice my flanges have nuts on the ends of the bolts, but the replacement doesn't. I assume the flanges must be threaded to accept the bolts. I was going to swap in the new diff keeping the old shafts but now I'm wondering if they're going to match. Does anyone have any advice?

Kurt Strause

I also undertook the project using the FAQ. I can see where it seems intimidating and at first it was. I wish I had done it when I was redoing the car and the dash and the rest of the interior was out, but I didn't and it wasn't.

It's kind of a pain laying on your back disconnecting the vent and heater cables and taking the box out. But that's really the hardest part next to putting it all back in. As I recall pulling it down and towards the passenger side was the way to go. Once out you'll see it's all pretty straightforward. Just be careful slipping off the three clips that hold the box together. The plastic has most likely gotten quite brittle over the years. That's especially true for the flimsy mount used to hold the heater valve onto the box. I ended fabricating a piece of aluminum and JB Welding it to the cracked mount. Once the fan motor is out there's not a whole lot you can do with it except lubricate it. As I recall its very difficult to rebuild since the housing parts are crimped together.

Just take your time and tackle it in little bits. It will all go back together.

Kurt Strause