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Black2002

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Posts posted by Black2002

  1. Thanks for all the insights, everyone.

    Update: Ed Madak, of 123 USA....has respnded....rapidly.... and the distributor will be sent to Ohio for pro-analysis.

    ......meanwhile.....out from a non descript plastic bag... a 170 164 JFU4! The original Bosch Distrib. for my '76!

    Long ago, Sent to Advanced Distributors. in Minnesota for rebuild. Clean! Shiny........and now,  Installed.

     

    WOW!

     

     Coool comparison of baseline....man 'O man is that Bosch solid!  Reminds me of my old car.......

    ...makes me want to play more with the 123!..I do love setting the advance higher at idle ( thanks FAQ info)!

    I really now, underestimate how much one can play with a 123 curves and the fun of the Bosch originality!

     

    123...I get manufactured stuff: mostly all is good...but then there's those ....

    Feedback helps a manufacturer know what to change. Like the quality of spring clip to hold the cap down...higher tensile strength or hardened or soomething ....

     

    I'll report what Ohio has to say.....

     

    Stay tuned....... (full pun intended)

     

     

  2. Sunday Morning Spirited Drive. 600 mi on new engine...dyno tuned..32/36...jetted perfectly and 123 Dist w/ Faq setting ...595 miles of pure driving bliss!

    Up a tall bridge....Lets play with WOT! (4K rpm and up)  oh to hear it roar! ....love this car!!!!

    1st....clogged fuel filter....ya know when bad....heavy acceleration doesn't exist...light ..feather it up still works.......

    2nd..downhill ditto again........

    Toll Booth ....no idle.....accelerator pump for acceleration ...starts and runs w/ acceleration. 

    Later at Garage: Idle ranges up and down......800 to 1900 rpm ....on it's own....check carb to manifold, manifold to engine...all is tight.

    Looking at 123.....vacuum line intact...let's take off the cap.....hmmmmm...seeing what I see?

    I think: too high rpms with distributor shaft out of round..( Bill you have to be wrong 123s are Perfect...they need no Customer Service!) 

    OK, I'm wrong....I know ...engine distributor gear wasn't replaced on rebuild and it made 123 shaft go out of round and distributor  impeller tore up cap!

    hmmm.. wouldn't it just be noisy with a sloppy (worn engine) gear connection?

    Straight shaft equals symmetrical rotation...distributor impeller wouldn't score the walls of the cap!!!..if shaft were straight, that is.

    Perhaps bad impeller....can I use any brand??

    Perhaps bad cap..........can I use any cap????

    Perhaps it's the distributor????? Accounts for rough idle, ranging rpms ......(sounds like let's rebuild the Bosch...clean and lubricate the plates.new bushings..would solve it).Itsa 123!

     

    Oh I hate to change out a distributor to see if new one works!!!!

    Yes, I broke out the Timing Light...to see if it advance were wacky......a possessed Weber Idle circuit..thinking not so likely.

    Reset 123 ...black to red wire trick.

    Couldn't find master erase reset instructions,  or How to: switch to default curves. Remove resident curves and reload.

     

    So, What Happened:   ...?...

     

    High RPMs - 1).  impeller lifts and drops below where it's meant to stay.

     

    2). vibrations made cap jump out from rotational locking tab...causing all the above and then sitting back down after screwing the vacuum brain circuit. 

    (author: I like this scenario.....but, it would still mean the distributor shaft was moving around....a lot !) 

     

    Or .......perhaps someone knows how I can send this to 123 Tech service to get their opinion?

    What's your thoughts!

    Please Share!

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

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    • Sad 1
  3. Hello: Schreuders: No issues, I'm aware of at the moment.

    The estimated shipping was for 48 states USA ...Euro Shipping would be paid in total by you.

    Current packaging has two rims in one box - 2 boxes.

     

    FedEx freight, UPS and DHL would be available options. 

    Sent as used auto parts.

     

    Payment - PayPal in advance  with shipping and they're off to Stuttgart!

    Please provide me address specifics to advance the purchase.

     

    You can contact me via email.

     

    Bill L.

    I

  4. Price: $695
    Location: Newport, RI


    Description:

    14" Refinished wheels - Lips Polished - centers and caps painted with new BBS logos.

    These are forged aluminum - light weight extreme for BBS basketweaves!

    Proper Metal Valve Stems - installed - New

    Specs are in the title..

     

    Here.....before ebay.  $100 for shipping...and will refund whats not required

     

     

     

     

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  5. You guys ROCK..! Thanks .x 1M..and I'll sign up for the T-Shirt, too!

     

    What's killing me, and I have to ask....so you can jump in and kill me, first....BUT

     

    DC Circ. was taught to me , put your finger on it and trace it and don't pick finger up...and you have circuit.

     

    What I don't see ....is where any of that grounds w.o. the relay?  i.e. w.o. #31...where's the ground connection?

     

    I promise......my last question.

     

    AVG: Timer relay and BSL: my thought, it is the early equivalent to our modern "!" light. ie "there's something to pay attention to".....in the relay's case, fasten seat belt. (This is the backdrop of '74 &'75...where car wouldn't start w.o. seatbelt if memory serves.....it's a no wonder wiring was pulled out !

     

    You Guys have been great! Thanks for a welcome distraction

     

     

  6. Thanks for hanging with me AVG....My real question, is: not finding a timer relay.....can't I ground B, L, and S.... each of the functions turn on a light with some switch. So the relay has two jobs....seat belt for 5 sec. separately (and unecessarily) the relay closes the grounding circuit of the warnings, until a switch is tripped. ie...brake fluid goes low and closes the circuit, pres. balance, etc.

    Again, my question is: can't I just ground those circuits and forget about seatbelt notice with no relay.

    (diodes...? ...wouldn't they show.......like you said...it's not power we're talking about it's grounding..........and switches. 

    Thanks in advance for the thoughts.

     

     

    https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/. <---------rabbit hole, too..... great resource

     

  7. I've spent way t o o much time on a restoration, to start with. (sourcing 45 year old air for the tires, etc.)

     

    I've got one relay that clicks and stays that way( the subject of the capacitor replacement, where photo was lifted) Then, I have a ebay purchase that doesn' t do squat, thank you very much $30. later.

     

    So I started to look at automotive timer circuits, ones that  open and one's that close, to see if they could work......not finding an available Bosch replacement.

     

    I admit I fell down the rabbit hole.

     

    I started questioning why not have all the ground circuits connected, it's for low brake fluid, front vs. rear brake circuit.

    It seems only   relay  for the "fasten seat belt" 5 sec. notice is desirable.

     

    C. It's more to think about than which TV episode, I'm up to.

     

    Thanks for the reply. But am I wrong......about the grounding???

     

    • Like 1
  8. Not an E. engineer! 

    Relay is '76....

    Tell me I'm right or wrong......Does this relay stay open and then close in say 5 sec. or opposite? 

    I've been staring at the diagram and it doesn't make sense.

    It appears, the closed circuit provides a ground to all thats connected.

    I thought it starts "fasten SB" light .....then goes off.

     

    15 is br - ground 

    31 is power from fuse 12

    B, S, L all provide the  - Ground Side to Red Warning Light the "HandBrake Light"

    B - Brake Fluid Level

          Brake Proportioning Circuit

          Ign Swtch -DashBoard Light !

    S - Seat Belt Light - On - Then Time Delay turns off (?) (The Capacitor)

    L - SeatBelt Buzzer On until tab in Seatbelt (Switch Normally Closed) interrupts circuit - making buzzer go off and SeatBelt Light Go off.

     

    Somebody......help me!

     

    Thanks in advace

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  9. Looking for Weathertech - model number for our E10's Plexiglass Wind Deflector.

     

    In review, plexiglass, w/rubber gasket, clips attach to roof and plastic thumb nut and screw hold it all together.

     

    I know of no reseller ...all the usual suspects....that sells this part

    I believe the orginal supplier was Clim Air - (presently Weather Tech supplier ) 

    Weather Tech has never heard of a 2002 .....("yes, but what model BMW is it ?")

     

    Here attached, are poached Faq photos,...(thanks for use, fellow enthusiast!).

     

    All help appreciated..

     

    No, I haven't posted in parts wanted.

     

     

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  10. Longyear order cancelled - Michelin XAS 165 x13s- "are currently unavailable with no date for new production, we have had to cancel your order."

    For those who are interested ....can we make some noize to Michelin that there's still a market?

    I will look for some way to communicate to Michelin and will pass it along when found.

     I'll start with Coker, today.  Updates to follow.

     

    • Sad 1
  11. Eureka! Roundel you nailed it. Thanks!! I gotta wonder the origin of that illustration .......perhaps early 320?  

    I agree with going urethane. 

    Full disclosure, Sunday with unused rubber sway bar bushings, 50 grit grinder and drill press I "turned" the bushings till they fit with lube and cut the spacers to use as internal sleeves. New for both mounts. Installed. Alternator hangs tightly with the M10.

    Fabrication in a pinch, but urethane  will be ordered.

    Thanks All.

  12. Here's the reality..IMG_5612.thumb.JPG.b96b6331a56bb163dc63ef91189174c5.JPG

    Each of my alternator mounts look like this.  Melted.....maybe some cleaner I shouldn't have used????!!!!!!!

    BMW has no part numbers for the mounting. 

    Nothing in the white parts books and the electronic versions.

    So, I Google search Bosch parts catalog pdf etc.

    I find the short 25mm bushing and rubber (Pelican Parts)

    I'm not finding the longer bushing and rubber.

    Haven't called BNR and don't want to rebuild just for mounts.

     

    What strikes me I can't find parts diagrams or numbers ....Seems like there should be a Bosch parts catalog...I find nothing.

    Any HELP out there?????

    Patts Diagram, Part Number and supplier.

     

    Thanks in Advance.

     

     

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