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Posts posted by Beaner7102
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Ash tray up to 71 (manual) - 51 16 7 466 065
Ash tray up to 71 (Auto) - 51 16 1 801 675
Both NLA, try W&N, they had them a few years back. Beaner7102
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On 2/17/2017 at 9:24 AM, OriginalOwner said:
Here's my experience with blocking off the coolant flow loop through the heater.
A few years back the heater coil began to leak. So I plugged the outlet from the back of the cylinder head (which is the inlet to the heater), and I plugged the hose that returns coolant back to the water pump (the heater outlet side). The car began running HOT !!
So I redneck'ed some hoses to connect the cylinder head outlet to that return hose, thus "restoring" coolant flow from the back of the cylinder head into the water pump. The car ran normal temp.
Cheers,
Carl
+1
If you do delete the box, DONT block off the water flow. Just run a length of rubber heater hose from the block to the waterpump. Sorted.
Beaner7102
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1 hour ago, 69NEWCLASSNH said:
Do all roundies have anodized trim? Was planning on polishing my 1970 until now..
Trim for all years is anodised, not just roundies. Beaner7102
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Can you recreate it and have it digitally printed directly to the fabric, the same way that flags and fabric banners are printed. Our sister company at work could do this, but Australia is such a long swim to the states. Rough sample of the artwork attached.
Just a thought Beaner7102
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Alixta, I think all early OZ 02s were first delivered to the UK, until Australian compliance regs took over (not sure when) and they were sent direct.
Both my cars (carb not Tii) were delivered to the UK, the 71' then went to Melbourne, the 72' went to Perth (but I bought it in Melbourne).
HTH Beaner7102
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11 hours ago, thinksound_mike said:
$10 for a used washer is such a deal! It was be going for $35 in 6 months. (ugh)
But I would rather pay $1.62 for a shiny new one from a dealer, or 15 cents from a bolt shop.
Beaner7102
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33 minutes ago, oldskoul said:
I am a little confused there is a 'hood seal' and 'side hood seals' to keep fumes from passing in that section and also a hole, with a 'elephant trunk tube' to let the air in?
The elephant trunk tubes sort of self seal - they let water and dirt drain out of the heater plenum (into the engine bay), but keep the fumes out. If they are not in place engine fumes will enter the plenum and into the cabin through the heater.
The hood seal (under side of the hood part# 51235480192), and side hood seals (on the fender near the hood locking shaft, part #41615480195/6) also keep fumes out of the heater plenum.
HTH Beaner7102
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Snowy, jump on the 123Tune group buy - it ends tomorrow - see link.
http://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/184447-its-here-the-great-123ignition-group-purchase/
The 4-R-V model is about $405 AUD shipped for a brand new electronic dizzy, with 14 pre-programmed curves.
Beaner7102
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That brown spacer is made from Phenolic Resin and is there is insulate the carby from the heat of the manifold. Remove it at your peril.
You may find that the fuel will evaporate from the carby, causing restart issues after a drive.
Beaner7102
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Part # 33.41.1.106.765 is still available - approx $9 each ($144 per set of 16)
IE's are only $5.50 each ($88 per set of 16) - time to break out the grinder and save $56
Beaner7102
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Not knowing too much about EFI tuning, but the basic science is: cold air is more dense, making the mix leaner.
So you need to make the cold start tune richer - think of it like pulling the choke out to close the butterflies on a carby, to reduce the airflow for the same amount of fuel - making a richer mix.
HTH Beaner7102
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Roberrick, I would not series 2 batteries, you will fry your 45yo electrics with 24v.
Yes you could have killed the condenser, you can run without one, the points will just get eaten quicker, but not this side of Christmas.
What is your spark plug gap? Are they clean (all the fuel and cranking I'm sure they are fouled). Check and recheck the basics, you will get there.
Beaner7102
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Marshall I believe all E30s are over by 10% out of the factory. I have learnt to drive mine looking at the tacho. But it is a pain, as I just swapped tires around from the E30 to the 02 and I need to tea learn the revs again.
Beaner7102
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Simeon, I have done a full face on my early 71' gauge. I took photos of the speedo with a GPS speedo app (on iPhone) and calibrated from there, so its perfect. The photo show an old version calibrated from the wheel/diff/rpm calculator but it was not as accurate. Let me know if you need help doing the same. Beaner7102
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I have used a wheelbarrow and a plank before. Lye the barrow on its side, shimmy the engine in and re-right the barrow. Then wheel it up a thick plank onto your trailer or truck. 1 person job, but easier with 2. HTH Beaner7102
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but I am thinking about how I can carefully strip it again without stuffing everything up around there
Simeon, mask the area with some 50mm wide blue painters tape, cut a hole the same size as the mask from an ice-cream tub lid, stick that over the blue tape with the strongest double sided tape money can buy (3M VHB comes to mind). Soda or sand blast away the paint (even a wire wheel would work as the mask is strong enough). Remove the mask and tape (peel the blue tape towards the centre of the hole, to not lift the paint). Re mask and shoot some clear to stop the rust. Thats what I would do. Beaner7102
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They are M4 20mm long - CSK. fillister head screws.
See page 51/25 from Real OEM for more info. HTH Beaner7102
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Eric, Yes they are a compression fit.
Remove the rubber line, tap it back in with a smear of fuel safe sealant - JB weld or Permatex® MotoSeal® Ultimate Gasket Maker Grey.
You can even do a few taps on a centre punch around the edge of the inlet tube to deform the edge a bit and ensure its good & tight. Then add some more sealant around the edge.
You are lucky the M10 is a crossflow head, if the exhaust and inlet were on the same side you would have had a fire for sure.
HTH Beaner7102
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Did you see the 2 post by The Hack Mechanic?
http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/138748-the-fan-tome-gourmet/?hl=heater+fan#entry4609
and
http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/138377-early-and-late-blower-motors/?hl=heater+fan
They have a lot of info and reference the Porche part numbers needed for a cheaper fan motor. HTH Beaner7102
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If the tolerances in the bushings are equally tight,
With good maintainence yes they do perform equally. But the early design wears quicker and makes for a very floppy shifter and a rather vague feel.
With the previlage of two cars, one of each style, I can tell you the later one has the smoother feel, even though I never replaced the bushes. The early one I've fixed 3 times.
Beaner7102
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I have even tried to connect directly to the battery here, but nothing.
You should have sound from a horn direct off a battery. Make sure BOTH ends are making good contact to the battery and the horn.
If it does not sound in test, it wont work on the car.
Beaner7102
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How about the..
All chrone centre grille of the 1600-02's part #51 13 5 780 112.
Or the RHD clutch master cylindar part #21 52 1 104 262.
Both are NLA, its a bit hard to drive a car with no clutch, and the grill would make the undrivable car look nicer
Beaner7102
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Craig Lowndes won't.
Craig Lowndes just might.. he gets his tailshafts balanced at Balancing Services Australia, in Preston Victoria. Thats possibly a little far away from you.
But I can attest they do great work. I had my tailshaft rebalanced there about 10 years ago with no issues since. Car was a DD for about 6 of those years.
Beaner7102
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I have a set of 40/40's that I am yet to fit.
I do know that The adjustments settings for synchronous carbs tend to be half of what is recommended for progressive carbs. Example, if a progressive carb is set at 2 turns, the synchronous carb would be set at 1 turn. And both screws are generiall set slightly different to one another, this is because if differences in the mainfold casting.
38DGAS Tuning - CARBURETOR SET UP AND LEAN BEST IDLE ADJUSTMENT (borrowed from a UK Ford Pinto site)
Base line Settings
Speed Screw 1/2 turn in
Mixture Screws 1 turn out
Final Settings Engine Running
Mix______
Speed_____
It is important to verify all linkage and levers are installed without binding and the linkage opens to full throttle and closes to the Idle Speed Screw. The number one and two reasons for tuning errors are improper linkage installations and over tightened linkage nut, causing a binding in linkage assembly.
CALIBRATIONS MAY VARY DUE TO REGIONAL FUELS AND STATE OF ENGINE TUNE AND PERFORMANCE. POOR RUNNING DOES NOT ALWAYS MEAN A BAD OR POORLY ADJUSTED CARBURETOR. AN ADVANTAGE OF THE WEBER CARBURETOR IS ITS EASE OF ADJUSTMENT AND TUNING.
SET UP ADJUSTMENTS
1. Start set up by confirming carb base line settings. Do not depend on the existing settings.
2. All settings are done with choke disengaged or warmed up so that the choke is fully opened and disengaged. This is done on automatic choke carburetors by first opening the choke butterfly by hand and inserting a wood block or wedge of some kind to hold open while the linkage is cycled (linkage operated through its full movement ) to clear the choke cam. (You will hear a metallic click as the choke cam is released. You can check the choke fast Idle screw under the choke assembly to confirm that it is not in contact with the choke fast idle cam.)
3. Set the Idle Speed Screw by backing out the Idle Speed Screw until it is not in contact with the throttle stop lever. Cycle or Snap the linkage again to be sure that the linkage comes to close without any assistance. (Checking for linkage bind) Now bring screw back into contact with the lever and continue to open or screwing in, no more than 1/2 turn in, maximum.
4. Set the mixture screws by turning each screw in until it lightly seats. DO NOT FORCE OR BIND AS THIS WILL CAUSE DAMAGE TO THE SCREW AND IT’S SEAT IN THE BODY OF CARBURETOR. Back out the screw 1 full turn.TUNING:
1. BE SURE TO FOLLOW THE NEXT INSTRUCTIONS IN THE PROPER SEQUENCE, DEVIATION WILL CAUSE THE CARBURETOR TO NOT FUNCTION TO ITS IDEAL SPECIFICATIONS AND MAY NOT PROVIDE THE PERFORMANCE AND FUEL ECONOMY AS DESIGNED.
2. Start the engine, the engine will run very slowly more like a tractor. As long as the engine stays running idle speed is not important at this point.
3. The first thing, do not set “up” the idle speed, set the Idle mixture screw to lean best idle setting. First, turn in the mixture screw until the engine dies or runs worse, then back out the screw (recommend turning ¼ at a time). The engine should pick up speed and begin to smooth out. Back out 1/4 turn more, or until the screw does nothing or runs worse then turn back to the point where it ran its best.
4. Use your ear, not a scope or tuning instruments at this point. You want to tune the engine by sound. Adjust to best, fastest and smoothest running point.
5. Now that the mixture screw is at its best running location, you can adjust the Idle speed the screw. The idle speed screw will be sensitive and should only take ¼ turn to achieve the idle speed you like.
6. Check and set idle to your driving preference. Put the car in gear and apply slight load, (AC on) and set the Idle as you like it. Don’t set it too high, as this will cause causes excessive clutch and brake wear. The Idle only needs to be 650 to 800 RPM with light load or AC on.
7. Recheck timing and vacuum hook ups. Recheck mixture screw to lean best idle again. If all is still best and smoothest idle then confirm and note the final settings.
8. To confirm settings with the engine running. Start by screwing in the mixture screw and count the number of turns it takes to bottom out and note if the engine dies. If Idle Mixture screws are with in ½ turn of base line setting then all is well. Also check the speed screw and note how many total turns from initial contact. You may have opened (turned in) the speed screw. Your final setting should be under 3/4 turn in. Reset the screws (back in) to the best final settings (Per your notes) and go on a test drive. If the settings are other than described then you may want to recalibrate the Idle circuit (low speed circuit) to your engines needs. This is done by following the rule of thumb BELOW.
Simple Rules for low speed calibration
If the mixture screw is more than 11/2 turns out turns then the Idle jet is too lean (too small). When the mixture screw is ½ turn or less, then the Idle jet is too rich (too large). These assumptions are based on the fact that the speed screw setting is not opened more than 1/2 turn in. If the speed screw has to be opened1/2 or more turns then this is also an indication of a lean condition usually requiring greater change. At times it may appear to be showing signs of richness or flooding it is really a lean condition. Please understand the need to keep throttle plate as near to closed as possible so as not to prematurely expose the transition holes. This is what causes the visible rich condition, and confirms the need to increase the jet size. JET KITS are available if needed.
EXAMPLE With the idle speed screw set at no more than 1/2 turn in after contact with the stop lever; and the best idle occurring with the idle mixture screw set at 1 1/2 turns from lightly seating, indicates the need for a larger Idle jet. Achieving the best idle at less than 1/2 turn indicates the need for a smaller idle jet.HTH Beaner7102
Refurbing carbs...best way to deal with the finish?
in BMW 2002 and other '02
Posted
That is hydrochloric acid 5%, not sure I'd clean carbs with that.
Beaner7102