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NMDerek

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Posts posted by NMDerek

  1. On 3/30/2022 at 8:31 AM, jgerock said:

    Back in 2009, I replaced all three of my linkage rods, including the middle (fixed) one. Think I used Mercedes parts sourced from another FAQ’r.  Note the length of the front and middle rods. They are the same 85mm. I measured my originals and adjusted the new ones to match.

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    link please ?

  2. On 4/22/2024 at 12:33 PM, fredhamm said:

    Joe

    I just went thru this Heater box rebuild thing i only needed the small "o" rings and foam padding which i sourced on Amazon, i only removed rivets from main box left others alone. I was told by radiator shop in Santa Maria that the "Heater Cores Only" can not be sourced not available. But you can buy new "Heater Core Complete" for $450-$550 and Valves for $300. I own a 18mm box and 15mm box. I am using 15mm main box and 18mm box top and 18mm core and 18mm valve. So i have top of 15mm box 15mm core and 15mm valve which i replaced valve "o" ring. Box top in excellent condition good 15mm core tested at Radiator shop and now good 15mm valve. I point this out to you because i buy from 2002AD and they probably can not source new core but can sell you a used heater core complete used. 2002AD sometimes can be pricy. Let me know

    Thanks 

    Fred

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    core redo - 

    link to foam and o rings? the foam I got was just not right tia

  3. Price: $175
    Location: santa fe, nm


    Description:

    $175 plus ship, 2 boxes? work on this one while u look for that screw that releases the old one, tii stuff trades posible

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  4. 44 minutes ago, AceAndrew said:

    @Mark92131  Like the bracket solution.  Looks slick.

     

    Painted the uprights and the areas behind the headlight brackets black.  Authentic brush stroke pattern, haha. Also painted the front portion of the radiator with Eastwood’s radiator paint.

     

    Test fit the front grill to make nothing visually jumps out from behind.  Fun fact, I bought the grill in 2012 when BMW did a batch of them.  Price was $107.  Glad to finally see it on the car.

     

    Got the header back from ceramic coating from the boys at Raw Powdercoating (LongBeach).  They do fantastic work, enthusiast owned/operated.

     

    Thanks to Jesus at CK for the E9 3.0cs OE spark plug wire loom, another little period touch.  Mounted it with some standoffs, but will likely get some more thermal protection for the wires.

     

    ….. and it’s finals week!  First final is tomorrow morning. 

     

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    Holy green hornet Batman, that Kato look is awesome!

    • Like 1
    • Haha 1
  5. On 3/21/2024 at 9:31 AM, James Laray said:

    What does re-coring a radiator involve?  Is the replacement aluminum version a direct fit?  Where does one source?   

     

    Amazon sells one (click on the 503 error and you will see it listed - don't know why it doesn't embed image)  

     

     

     

     

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    $190 for 2 cleaned up and tested, recoring per the owner said actual replacement of the waffle inserts.

     

     

     

  6. On 4/5/2024 at 8:33 AM, NMDerek said:
    1701 Aspen Ave NW, Unit W
    Albuquerque, NM  87104
    +1(505) 247-4222
    +1(505) 247-4555
    info@independentradiator.com
     
    their email seemed to bounce , I have a guy dropping them off today I hope, probably just an estimate we'll see what they say and the final price, I'll report back.

    well they cleaned and pressure checked 2 of them for $157 (both ok), I'll ask what would it be for the recore tomorrow when I pick them up and send a pic. 

    • Thanks 1
  7. 9 hours ago, Aaron R said:

    Hoping you, the 2002 wisdom sphere, can help me out a little. 

     

    I just got my '74 back on the road (again), and it starts and idles pretty well, but has an annoying issue. When it's dead-dead cold, it accelerates smoothly and all seems well. 

     

    But once it gets any heat into the engine whatsoever, it will miss and stutter, especially under part throttle. If I blip it from idle to 2,000 rpm or so at a stoplight, it'll backfire a bit. 

     

    The pump linkages are all adjusted correctly according to the book, it has a 123 ignition Bluetooth distributor in it, a new Bosch AL41X alternator that is charging, the grounds have all been renewed. It started doing this before the new alternator came along, though it has gotten worse. I put clean NGK BRP6ES plugs in it, which made no difference. I also swapped coils, which did nothing. 

     

    The other day the warmup regulator locknut and top hat were gone when I got back from a drive, so I guess the vibrated off. I have a washer and nuts on there now, and the WUR extends to full distance and moves the lever. The miss was there before this happened, though, so I'm not sure it's that. 

     

    The fuel filter has less than one tank of gas through it. The oil looks decent. The electric pump is a Bosch from an E28. But since the car runs fine when cold and clears up if you mat it, I don't think it's fuel delivery. 

     

    Lastly, I had the head and the upper timing cover skimmed last summer, reseated the valves, and put it new valve seals. 

     

    So to recap -- My tii has a consistent, significant miss/stutter/stumble after warmup at part to medium throttle, especially between 2,200 and 3,500 rpm. It runs and revs perfectly smoothly before the temp gauge moves. It has a bunch of new parts. 

     

    Any ideas would be appreciated. 

     I google what does mat mean and got car mats, manifold air temperature? Thanks for killing this 🐈‍⬛ 

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