WVGranat

Given the central placement of the attachment point I am going to go with Mike and say motorcycle though I can't seem to find a pic of them as an accessory in any of my literature

The column's vin plate in addition to the plate in under the hood has always been fine for me in the past at the DMV.  AAA would be a sure bet, but probably unnecessary unless you need other services ( you do have your Real ID compliant DL, right?) 

22 minutes ago, jimk said:

Can the starter be pulled easily with the humungus manifold?

Piece of cake.  Easier than the older E21 log because there is space under there that the rounded runners take up in the E21 system.  Longer arms do help though. 

Having used both with EFI I would say where do you want to drive/what cam do you have.  The e30 manifold has better low-end, but the volume is a bit small and constrains the top-end (overall HP) a bit.  Reverse for the E21 log with a more favorable manifold volume.

5 minutes ago, Oldtimerfahrer said:

. I got an object lesson from another FAQler that the 300 degree cam is very out and not comparable to a modern cam...Everything is possible, but once you line-bore the head out to the larger cam journals of the Motorsport cam there is no return.......at least not economically viable return.

It's not like Dr. Schrick has been working on the 292 or 305 anytime recently either.  They are all "old" tech and depend heavily on the set up.  Ironically I think the greater velocity afforded by the smaller 118 ports may actually benefit the OP in balancing low-end and top-end performance.  Your going to be reving up there anyway with a 1600.

Pm sent

That's because the KBA is 48235 which comes up as Ronal.

Hi Enoz,

Sending you a PM.

_Walter

I'll take one as well.  Thanks for doing this!

I will chime in on this front.  I am not sure about the later Megasquirts, but in my experience V1 needed clean power, once we got to v2 (v2.2) the key was a good separate ground for the ecu and sensors, I would hope that later versions continue that trend.  I have a trunk mounted battery and just bring a single feed forward to a distribution block, all engine electrics route from that single point, including the MS.  No noise problems and I have over 10y on this system now.

I agree with the 118 being sacrificial.  Notice in the second video with the head build they are using an E12.  The exhaust ports also look more conservative.  

Bit late to the party I know (had reply ready yesterday, but accidentally deleted it).  

It's all a risk, you decide.  But pay attention to what data points we have: there are crash and crash testing pictures and insurance information(note what Allan from Canada reported on page one, it's the usual advice) which pretty strongly suggests that the front seat is the right place for survivalbility.  That's a touring up there in that picture, so a little less rigid than a sedan, but honestly they are not that different, that back seat is heavily compromised.  If you roll over, the B-pillars are usually the only ones not severely compromised.  

Don't just assume that because modern cars suggest the rear seat, that it is somehow the best place. Only the doors got side impact beams, the rear metal just has the one triangular gusset down low by the wheel.  So if you need the room sure, but if its just the two of you,well  I have always opted for the passenger seat.

Having said that, yes I my toddler rides in the front in his Recaro seat, and my 8 yo sits in the rear if I am taking them both out, and I generally DD mine 3-4 months of the year so it happens.  Just understand the risks.  Much like Abe I can remember awesome times in the back seat of my friends dad's 2002 and 2002 turbo in the 70's ripping down the autobahn or around the alps, the lap belts loosely fastened around us.

14 minutes ago, TobyB said:

 

 

does that mean they won't work on things that have BMW 'Classic' parts on them?

 

heh

 

t

 

Remember it's Germany, TUV and other regs. limit what you can put on a street driven car, and expect the manufacturer's agent to work on. So, probably not only OE, but not much more than OEM.

42 minutes ago, mike said:

 And what the heck are those rear wheels?  

mike

Really great find.  

The rear wheels are early 80's Audi, like from the body shell behind the tii in the first pic.

The nuts securing the front carb are loose in that picture.  But maybe you were doing some work?

So Sorry Daniel.  I wondered what was up when I hadn't seen the car around recently.

It will be missed.

-Walter

I don't know if moving the tailpipe to the center is going to do much to alleviate heat build up...the muffler is in the same place, only the tailpipe moves to the center.

There is a heat shield along the gas tank in the center (even on earlier cars).  They would have needed an additional heat shield along the section leading out towards the side exit.  Easier to just go out the center.  (And we have no restrictions on center exit unlike some Nordic countries at the time)

$18,500

$16690.69

Inspired by the post number of course.

It was suggested to me to use house wrap. Seems like a good idea. Specifically made to repel water and wick it to the bottom of the sheet (if installed correctly). Since I was in the middle of wrapping my new garage I just put some aside for this.

My understanding is that Housewrap (tyvek) is indeed close to what BMW provides if/when you order these.

Your Dad will be greatly missed here. A great giving man of humble spirit and excellent advice.  My condolences.

Ok, I have to ask where motomoto sees the picture with the bump out in the front?  Or is there something different with the back of the sunroof that informs you that it is an "aftermarket" one.

Just curious since I happen to have a non factory, dealer installed sunroof.  As you correctly surmise (per the original dealer sales invoice) it was a 911 Goldie instaled by their body shop.  Unfortunatly no coveted wind-deflector.  I will second the fact that the parts for the operation of the VW/Porsche version are easier to find and more complete than what is currently provided by BMW.

This concerns me...

Yes but most of the Mann fuel filters have been made in South Africa or Portugal for some time now.  No reason the chinese can not do as well.  Already a huge profit margin on those things, not like there would be much gained cutting additional corners.  Bearings/machined parts well that is another matter.

Those seats are from a Peugeot 405 Mi16.  Peugeots at least from that era were known for having the most comfortable seats of any manufacturer.

This!  As probably the rare person who actually has owned one of these in the U.S. that is exactly what they are from.  And they were confortable.  More so than the Recaro Trophy in the 16v VW GLI I also owned at the same time.

My relativley low mile short block (unrebuilt) was at one time in an automatic, and I too have the exact noises that Pat describes.  Everything else checks out (I too suspected crank or rod bearings) just have not had time or the inclination to do anything about the crank thrust slop yet.

Perhaps the auto puts some strange load on the crank during upshifts?

I'm in too, 7:30 it is.