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tsk02

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Posts posted by tsk02

  1. 74' - 76' spare, original condition, original michelin tire. tire & wheel look like new, possibly never used. $30

    Weber Carb - $25

    Misc trim 74' ( belt& door sill odds & ends ) $15

    cash is best

    Tim, 760-208-0973 in Gardena Ca

  2. 1973 Verona tii 4 spd, Sunroof, Ca car

    Alpina Steering wheel

    Recaro front seats (custom saddle matched)

    Alpine stereo (speakers under rear seat)

    Factory tii Alloy wheels (5)

    ADDITIONAL INCLUDED PARTS- Original front seats (VGC) Original steering wheel, stock blaupunkt radio(works)

    new upper strut bearings, VGC windshield (no pits, cracks)+gasket

    COMPLETE - 5spd conversion - 320i 5spd transmission, shifter housing,shortended DS,LSD diff W/spacers, and axels,speedo cable, shortend shifter, clutch, PP, mounting brackets & bolts

    Very clean car, sorry I forgot pics of motor, all stock, oversize radiator

    (no snorkel, original front end)

    best cash offer $8500 or better and its yours. call me for more details & pics. 310-938-3134 Car avail. 3-26-09 thanks, Tim

    post-248-13667603318197_thumb.jpg

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    post-248-13667603319863_thumb.jpg

    post-248-13667603320577_thumb.jpg

    post-248-13667603321448_thumb.jpg

  3. after hearing some bad clunking from the rear end, I surmised the diferential was probably shot.

    after removal ( with axel shafts still attached) I noticed that both axels could be pulled out completely from the housing with no effort at all.

    Is that what happens when the spider gear fails? Or is this a different problem?

    Tim

  4. Thanks for the diagram, that is really helpful.

    Threads don't appear to be stripped. Seems like the same amount of thread is showing on the other shock, so that is what puzzeled me.

    I didn't want to continue threading down the shaft because it didn't seem to be compressing the rubber washer at all.

    Tim

  5. Noticed a rattling coming from the back of car, discovered drivers side shock at was really loose ( rubber bumper not compressed at all).

    Can't seem tighten down anymore. Is there another spacer, or attachment that mounts under the wheelwell, that could be missing?, or is the shock just broken, something else? Gonna pull the wheel off later today, but I thought I'd get some info first.

    Thanks, Tim

  6. Yeah, the speedo was one concern, but mine is out of whack a little anyway.

    I was contemplating the lower profile look. I've got the original alloys to mount up when I wear out the tires on the 15'' rims on the car now.

    I saw somebody post a picture not too long ago that looked like a low profile tire on an 13" rim.

    Tim

  7. Right you are Mike,

    after I did the old standard checks on terminals & such, I did replace the actual switch on the back of the ignition housing thinking the switch was just worn out.

    Since my starter was replaced just over a year ago, and all terminals on the batter & alt were tight and clean, I was guessing relay, short, or??? I'll have to pull the starter to rule it out as the culprit, but it sure seemed like the ignition switch was the problem based on the fact that if I jiggled the key a bit, the car would crank over.

    thanks

    Tim

  8. Thanks,

    first thing I did before I changed the ignition switch was clean the terminals and checked all the connections to the alt, starter, relays etc.

    all are clean & tight. changed the ground strap just to be safe.

    looking for other solutions.

    thanks for the input

    Tim

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