M20Curtis

Hey all, having issues on a '68 1600 and this single barrel solex is just too much slowness for me. Anyone recently pull off a 32/36 and intake to swap? Thanks in advance!

Hey hey, give me and email at M20Curtis1 at gmail.com!

Actually, that price is shipped to White Post. They quoted $225 plus $20 UPS Ground to return ship it. It's out of the car now, going to do a little seal searching and if no luck, it goes out to them here shortly. Gotta get this beast on the road!

I sure hope they shared some parts. Thank you, I'm going to send an email now so I can figure this kit out now and get this beast to quit leaking!

Mine is unfortunately very early and has the remote booster, master is on the pedal box. Found a company in New Jersey that will completely rebuild mine for $245 and looking like the only option...

Hey all, got an early '68 1600 with a leaky brake master cylinder. I looked into a simple replacement but the one it currently uses is NLA. It has two ports on the top for brake lines and two on top for the reservoir lines. I cannot find any available in this layout and may have to resort to an upgrade or a rebuild. Does anyone know of a way to do either?

I found a couple of threads on here regarding the same issue but neither had an ending or conclusion on what to do. I will be pulling it out ASAP and working on trying to get it rebuilt but wanted to check on here first. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Another one on the road, gauges sits just shy of half way in ANY situation so far, pushing it hard, sitting in traffic, or sitting idle in a parking lot checking for leaks for 30 minutes. Enjoy the pics, getting closer to offer a kit soon!

Does anyone make a center console kit nowadays? Preferably a short early style but pretty much anything, trying to get anything in the car where I just removed a full a/c system. Tanks in advance!

Center console available shipped to Orlando, FL 32810?

I still need to ohm meter the sensor but while working at it today I messed with some issues.

First I tried a brand new sensor so I can rule that out (in theory).

Next I made some new grounds from both the fuel gauge and the temp gauge small threaded nubs on the back of that portion, to a new hole I drilled, cleaned off metal portion, and nice metal screw so I'm sure the ground is functioning.

As soon as I try and plug it all in and pull the light switch it pins itself fully in the red. To try and rule out the gauge, I tried another gauge I have on the shelf and it does the exact same thing.

Just to appease me, is there anything that should plug in besides the main plug into the back of the cluster? Thanks in advance and I can't wait to find what the issue is on such a simple system!

Trying to wire in an auxiliary fan and having some issues on my temp gauge.

Gauge works fine when switched power to fan is unplugged and headlight switch is all the way off. As you turn parking lights on it jumps up, and with headlights on it jumps up to the red instantly. I have been reading and remembering about ground issues but not finding much.

Also, when all is well, I try my aux fan switched power to a known good source or even direct to the battery + and it goes right to the red as well.

I'm stumped, thinking there is a weak ground or my gauge is going out somehow. Found that a PO added a ground from back of cluster to metal of dash but it does no change with or without it. Ideas?

Hey all, the fan is wired on all the time when ignition is to the run position. The fan is mounted to the front of the new aluminum radiator, grounded with one wire up front to the body for a ground and then just one power wire to switched power within the cabin. New brackets coming up soon so it looks more finished and then we can start selling a kit. Please email me if interested.

***TEASER***

life, i have to deal with this shit...

First off.... Just read your emails..... Sorry I didn't get back to you this instant you emailed....

I've been in Germany.... You know that country where your fucking car was built?...yeah that one. Sorry I don't have the luxury of living in Orlando and being at home every night after cleaning the shitty baby diapers out of "It's a small world afterall" ride at Disney world. You're so fucking fortunate...

So apparently it matters where I live to bash that? Worthless paragraph.

I'd like to apologize that you got the wrong 008 dizzy....you know in the past 13 years I've parted out 86 cars and still have too many parts lying around my garage.... I suppose I should have wrapped it up in a pretty fucking pink bow with your name on it, so when I had to rush out the door and leave my wife, 2 year old son and 4 month old daughter at home so I could play engineer on the other side of the world, you get the right dizzy. My wife picked up the wrong one and mailed it whilst I was gone.

Of course it isn't your fault you didn't send me what was described, must be your wife's fault.

So now I get home.... And wow.... Just wow... 3 whole emails later... 3.... That's a lot of typing..... Do you want some ice..? Your head must hurt from all of that sentence structure. So you sent me 3 emails and then you proceed to slander me and my reputation on the FAQ, not to mention bring out every other fuckstick who thinks they got slighted by recent (and some not so recent....Robert w... Roadfly? Really? Tkent02? Didn't that guy pass away 10 years ago).... Besides I have not been selling on eBay in over 4 years......

I guess I should have sent a dozen emails since the quantity must make it better. If you won't answer one, why send 10? How did I slander you as well? All of my statements are true, and all of these other people out there have had an issue also. Anyone had an issue with any parts or promises I made in this community that I need to know of?

SoHenrynbmw..... You're a fucking lunatic!!!! The slave cylinder was NOS.... Go back and read the thread.... I posted pics of the slave and EVERYBODY agreed that it was NOS. NOS does not mean hermetically sealed in a plastic box for your protection..... You're confusing it with you tampons, which it sounds like youre running low on.... Get to store straight away...and don't forget the Kleenex for all the crying you seem to still be doing..... Oh boohoo I got burned cause I'm too fucking stupid to get on Wikipedia and lookup NOS.... Oh whooisme.... Boohoo.

Not my problem, you guys sort it out.

SoGetting back to Heir Engel..... Since you have already tarnished this whole experience and allowed your ego to air it's dirty laundry to over 300 fellow FAQers... So far....here is what I'm gonna do.... I have the the 008 dizzy that you were supposed to get, but I'm not going to send it..... I'm going to keep it, and I'm going to give it a deserving young FAQer and tell them that it's compliments to Heir Engel from Mickeymouseville, USA.

Very helpful to the community, thank you, and since another helpful member actually GAVE me one to get me running, no problem.

SoYou've really fucking pissed me off!!!! And I really don't care what you or anybody else on this forum thinks. This forum used to be fun and an enlightening place to get information and learn new things, but it's people like you that has to turn it into their own little reality TV show and fuck it up for everyone else..... Fortunately this forum's dark corners didn't start with you,... They've been here for some time now and I think that's why I choose to get out of 2002s....just another thing in life where all of the fun has been taken out of...Life is too fucking short......

Let me know how your foot tastes.

I'm Michael Schaak and I approved this message.

BTW... Thanks to Jason and Jim for sticking up for what's right....

Have a good one!

Thank yo Daron but I actually did exactly that for a running vacuum dizzy locally and that now has new point, plugs, condenser, cap, and rotor so she fires up. Won't rev yet but I think that is the carb giving me issues now. Thank you for the genuine 2002FAQ offer sir!

I would definitely try a phone if I had a number and I figured numerous emails would get to him since it was pretty instant on his response from his phone as we were doing the purchase. I'm more than willing to work with him but no response give me no such chance.

Hey all, after over 12 years in the 2002 community between here and Roadfly, I have finally been bitten by a member. I am not one to bash or start a mess but I put lots of trust in 2002 people and send things sometimes before they even pay because this big '02 family has helped me in leaps and bounds and span the country.

2002Monster, Michael Schaak, sold me a "running distributor" which just happened to be polished up pretty when it got to my house, only the fact that it was missing springs and clips that hold it all together and make it advance in the distributor body itself. 3 emails later and 5 days and still no response. He was sure quick to write back when I was sending money or interested. Now nothing. $100 down the drain but I will surely remember to refer you NOTHING unless you want to feel free to clear this up...

Got another distributor out of a running local car and imagine that, still no spark. Coil has 12V when ignition is on but no spark whatsoever to the distributor or any spark plug wires. What gives? I am at a loss how this is possible. Ideas? So lost on the simplest system in the world I could (and have) scream!

*** New coil out of an e30 and she fires up! But now won't rev. Never ran right before and I am starting to think this brand new 34ICH is junk as everybody says. Going to see if he still has a stock carb for one more try or convince for a 32/36 setup so I can actually work with the correct parts. Anyone have any insight for a good 1600 setup?

Yes, the magnet lines up right to the pickup and if anything is 1mm low at the most. Not enough that I would see any way in the world to not get a signal.

By adding the spacer made it like a 3-4mm difference so it made it worse and no way to lower the pickup itself lower than no spacer. Picking up point and condenser today to try and if it runs and fixes the problem, Pertronix has lost a customer. We shall see!

*** so I got to work and the points are backwards! What next? What in the world points did I get? To be continued tomorrow... This is really starting to suck!

PPS********** The damn distributor didn't have any springs for the mechanical advance. No comment, not happy, sourcing another WORKING unit now.

Okay so I hooked up direct power to the unit as well as a ground from the distributor to black wire to verify a good ground. STILL no spark, and seperately after hooking power into the red and ohm meter on the black wire and then to distributor body as explained, no pulse at all while spinning. Looking to me like she is dead in the water brand new out of the box! I am going to do a brand new set of points and condenser as this thing was designed tomorrow and see if she will spark and even more importantly, come back to life! Thanks all, I will update anything I find!

Thank you for all of these things and between this and just getting off the phone with Pertronix telling me to ground the distributor directly to add a better ground and then try for 12V direct from battery to test for voltage, this thing better spark tonight.

Thank you for all of the support and I will surely pass along whatever I find!

Okay, so tested the coil resistance and it is exactly 3.0-3.2ohms with many many tries. Also taped the condenser wire and have it far away from metal to rule that out as well and there is no ballast in line with the coil either, maybe an early car thing. Any chance this could be an issue with the distributor body itself? I bought as used out of a running car but no luck. It spins and the magnetic pickup is in line with the unit. Next ideas???...

No, but I already priced a blue one at $50 locally brand new so if my coil tests low, in goes the blue 3 ohm!

Thanks all, anything you can throw at me is much appreciated!

Okay, I will have to figure out how to ohm it all out and check resistance and hope I didn't fry a couple of these things. Any way to test a Pertronix? Also, it's a running car, and you say it could fry points, but it runs on points still, so hopefully this is enough ohms to run either?

I have this plus a brand new cap and rotor:

in this:

hooked to this, top black to -, red to bottom +:

with this unhooked, condensor wire:

THOUGHTS?

Hey all, while I have been doing M20 repairs in '02's for coming up on 10 years now, I apparently completely forgot how to work on an M10! And the slowest most simple version at that!

So I have a '68 1600 in my hands that is pretty darn stock and awesome. The points are shot and distributor is ugly and sloppy so I talked with the owner and got a -008 distributor for it and a set of Pertronix 1847V from a friend. Things didn't seem to work and I had zero spark so I bought a brand new set of Pertronix. So now I got this brand new one installed and STILL NO SPARK.

The wire going to the condenser from the body harness is left unplugged because I read that that was for tachometer which I have none, and then red Pertronix wire to + positive on coil and black from Pertronix unit to - negative on coil. Simple, two wires and I should make spark, no? No.

So I threw back in the ugly stock distributor with burnt paper thin points and it sparks right away, go figure. Also, one thing I noticed that may not matter, for some reason, the cap goes on 180* off when I switch new to old distributor body, so I have to redo plug wire order swapping back and forth. Even no matter the order or timing, I should have spark on #1, no? No.

Help, please help, and the beer will flow in your name. Thanks in advance guys!

cars--it's a pull knob mounted on the dash just to the left of the instrument binnacle. They almost never go bad...

cheers

mike

Yes, this one has the far left pull switch versus a newer center console push button and I tried another to no avail. Checked all fuses and also tried tracing wire colors according to the book and all looks okay there too. Time to look for a turn signal stalk and hope for the best in trying that. Fingers crossed, I was thinking ground wires at first but wiggled them all to test continuity and all seems good there as well and hazards are bright as they should be.