Art

I don't trust the piston rods after beating on and around them.  I would also like to find more compression so i will eventually find different pistons and rods.  Also, great information regarding bore vs sleeve.  Im off to find a good machine shop. 

I wanted to follow up on my quest to gently remove and hopefully reuse two rusted in pistons. As predicted by several of you, I had to persuade the last two pistons downward with some metal on metal action and heat.  I used a piece of pvc door trim to beat the pistons back up and out through the top.  I am including a photo of the pistons and rods that are headed to the scrap yard. I also included photos of the two cylinders that have pitting from the rusted pistons. I can now see that I may need to consider sleeves.   

After doing some research here  It sounds like I might be able to use a '72 121 TI head on a '79 E21 M10?  The 121 TI head would allow me to avoid the reversed distributor gearing but I will need to sort out miss matched engine mounts? The E21 is a 2.0 L and all other parts, intake, manifold, distributor are from two other 2.0  L M10's via a couple of 2002's.  I am only considering this because the E21 engine ran before it was removed, it turns over by hand and you guessed it,  dirt cheap.  Also, M10's from 2002,s are not easy to find in my locale.  

7 hours ago, Art said:

'72 M10 block.  Everything is off and out except for two pistons.  I have soaked them with PB Blaster for days and penetrating oil 24 hours.  Using wood and rubber mallet from underneath trying to not damage piano pistons.  I plan to use the block for rebuild and possibly the pistons but I am concerned the medium force of beating them out will damage them. Contemplating heating the block with propane torch. There is a good amount of surface rust above the remaining pistons.  Looking for advice.  

Great advice everyone.  I included photos of the other two cylinders.  Not ready to give up on  the block yet but I understand the odds are against me. Pistons are toast but will be liberated soon after some applied heat.  I will post some photos later of the crank and the head as they are in better shape.  

'72 M10 block.  Everything is off and out except for two pistons.  I have soaked them with PB Blaster for days and penetrating oil 24 hours.  Using wood and rubber mallet from underneath trying to not damage piano pistons.  I plan to use the block for rebuild and possibly the pistons but I am concerned the medium force of beating them out will damage them. Contemplating heating the block with propane torch. There is a good amount of surface rust above the remaining pistons.  Looking for advice.  

On 3/1/2023 at 6:01 PM, TobyB said:

So, #3 is the classic rod bearing to starve for oil, and that looks like which one

bid for freedom.

 

Since you have one rod bolt broken and one missing, tho,

it's like the old chestnut:

"Why'd he die?"

"Heart stopped beating"

 

Most likely scenario is that #3 ran dry, the bearing got chewed up, and then

the hammering of the crank on the cap broke one bolt.

Second possibility is that one rod bolt came loose, then the pounding happened.

 

It's not particularly uncommon for racing engines- even track- driven engine-

to lose #3 bearing.  If you've ever watched your oil pressure in a left- hander, you'll

know why.  It's far from trivial to keep the pickup covered.

 

t

 

Would you recommend a Windage tray?  

I am still doing some research regarding my situation.  Great useful input from everyone here.  I didn't know there were piston upgrade options for base model 2002's which explains my surprise when I saw the piano style pistons.  I don't plan to use the crank or head from the blown '76 engine.  Also the PO of the car said he thought the broken piston was a fluke thing b/c he had never known an M10 to have such a catastrophic failure.  He believes the wrist pin and or the lower half of the piston failed.  My next challenge is removing the '72 crank and pistons.  Not a single piston rod is in a position that allows a clean way out for the pistons to be forced out of the top from bottom.  The crank is about 90% hung up even with all the rod caps and main bearings removed.  

12 hours ago, tech71 said:

What does the 76 cylinder head look like ? Damage I assume?

 

Probably damaged but I am not sure yet?  As soon as I get the  pistons and crank out of the '72 block I am going to pull the '76 engine and transmission from the car.  

Hello, I am new to the forum and finally acquired a 2002.  I am Mechanically inclined but not yet a mechanic.  I purchased a 1976 2002 with a window in the block made by a piston rod.  I rolled the dice and bought a seized 1972 M10 with an E12 head hoping to salvage what I could and then swap blocks, crank, pistons, E12 head, etc. So far it looks like the seized motor is only seized because 2 pistons are rusted in the cylinders.  All the bearings/journals look good and there was no metal in the pan.  Two questions.  One, if I can remove and restore the piano pistons is it doable to put them back in the '72 block and then use all the good '76 parts on the '72 block?  This would include everything from the complete '76 except for the head, crank, and pistons. Second question is should I expect any issues from the higher compression pistons and the E12 head?  Im also using the '76 4 speed trans.