Yoda

I got the same kit and tried pretty much everything. The closest I could ever get it shifting into reverse was with the console unscrewed, with enough free play to get all the way left. Unfortunately I never figured it out, just stuck with the original early linkage and new bushings. It felt like it was gonna break.

If you figure it out I’d love to put the new style on! I got the newer shift rod with the push on shifter ball and everything but it never worked sadly.

I was confused about the “number + value” for the torque specs, but I found this forum post saying it’s what you’re supposed to torque to the second time. I didn’t want to risk anything so I torqued a second time to the added value, and everything seems to be okay on my subframe.

It definitely could be the value you’re not supposed to exceed, when placing a cotter pin or something like that. But not all the bolts/nuts have a pin, so I went with what this forum said. Good luck!

Interesting, must have moved since September of 2022! That’s too bad. Hopefully they are still good quality driveshafts.

When I got a rebuilt driveshaft from 2002AD, they sent it to a place called “General Driveshaft Service, Inc.” down in Monrovia, CA. They didn’t want to tell me who but I found out after a whole ordeal that’s the place they use. Looks like $345 dollars for a rebuild on a 2 piece with a dyno balance.

Their address is

133 W. Maple Avenue

Monrovia, CA 91016

Hopefully that helps! I’m guessing this is where the places in SoCal send out driveshafts to be rebuilt. The quality is good so far! I’ve had no problems, for a stock engine/transmission 2002.

I would never recommend buying anything from 2002AD, I was majorly burned by Ben and his team. Blunttech, Ireland Engineering, Rogers TII, Korman Autoworks, or even FCP Euro (get the part number off of RealOEM first). Any of these websites will take care of you and handle any problems you may have after delivery. The same cannot be said for 2002AD, at least not in my experience.

If you end up deciding to buy from 2002AD anyways, don’t be surprised when they upcharge you after the fact, don’t deliver in a timely manner, and dismiss any real concerns and returns for defective parts. 

Group buy list:

1. Ian Dickerson, iandickerson@mac.com, Ian

2. Mike, mikejoyATshawDOTca

3. bob02, Bob Newman

4. Chris C, Yoda

I’ll PM you about purchase details! Thank you.

I don’t know how to help with any of your other questions, but with neutral being 4th gear, I had a very similar issue. If you take out the reverse switch, you can push the center of the hole in and it should pop down. After I pushed in the center, the transmission was now in neutral and could spin correctly in all gears. I think what happens is that the transmission gets stuck in reverse, and won’t spin correctly. 
I hope this ends up being the issue for you, but maybe not. I’d recommend giving it a shot!

I kinda like the all black first one. Or the 3rd one. Is it a roundie or square light? You could stick a bmw roundel on the black plain one and it’d look very clean, in my opinion.

Hello,

I’m trying to find a set or at least 3 of these Cromodora lookalike/FPS wheels. They used to be sold by BMW until recently, now NLA. If anyone has these versions for sale, or knows of where I could buy them, please let me know!

The part number is 36 11 1 107 915.

Thanks

Hello, just wanted to update the thread in case anyone was following. The shop (2002AD) pretty much said I’m out of luck after using redline, but wanted me to send pictures of where the transmission was leaking from so they could send pictures to their rebuilder. I wanted to investigate myself where the leak was coming from, and I found out my transmission is using the coarse spline, and it’s very loose. Is this normal? Doesn’t seem like it was rebuilt at all. I’m very frustrated with my experience with their shop.

Does anyone know of a good rebuilder in Northern California? Or have a good lead on a used fine spline 4 speed? I have another 4 speed but it doesn’t spin in any gear, even though you can shift through all the gears. In neutral it’s locked together but spins in opposite directions.

Thanks for your help.

I attached a video that shows the looseness. It wasn’t pressed on at all, I could pull the flange off immediately after taking the nut off, no puller needed.

Thanks everyone for replying! I appreciate it. I thought that the shops claim was BS, but the shop is pretty well known to the 2002 community so I thought they would be telling the truth. The owner said they only fill their transmissions with Autozone branded 80w90 gear oil, which only comes in GL-5. They asked me to refill the transmission with the Autozone branded oil, but I'm a little hesitant due to the GL-5 grade and the possibility of making the transmission worse down the line. 

I think I will hold off on replacing the oil inside and replace the rear output shaft seal myself. Doesn't seem like they plan on helping me out anyways.

Hello,

I know this question has been asked, and I do know the answer, but I wanted to ask if what I was told by a rebuilder (2002AD) is true. Does redline MTL destroy Getrag transmissions? I just bought a rebuilt 4 speed, and I searched all over the forums for the correct oil weight/type/brand for the manual transmissions. I read that redline was one of the better choices, so I picked up two quarts and filled up my new transmission. The rear output shaft seal immediately started to leak, which might be cause of the redline oil, or it could've been a bad seal from the get-go. When I asked the rebuilder for some help, they told me since I filled it with the redline MTL, they can't (won't) fix the transmission, because redline is known to destroy transmissions. They acted as if this was common knowledge.

So is this common knowledge? From everything I've read on here and in the BMW blue book, 75w-80 gear oil is perfectly safe, and I made sure the oil I bought was GL-4 as well. The rebuilder told me they only use Autozone 80w90 GL-5 gear oil, which sounds wrong just based on the fact that it is GL-5. 

Also, the oil didn't seep out of the output shaft seal, it dripped quite a bit when being lifted into position to place in the car. I'm assuming this is not because the oil is breaking down the seal, rather that the seal is not working as intended.

Anyways, I'm trying to gather information to try and fight their claim that I destroyed my newly rebuilt 4 speed. If I'm in the wrong, that's understandable and I have learned an expensive lesson. I attached pictures of the oil they recommend and the oil I picked up at the store. Also attached the pictures of where I read 75w-80 GL-4 is safe for the transmissions in the 2002.

Thanks for your help,

Chris

If this is in the wrong forum location, I can repost it the correct area. Just let me know.
 

For people reading this in the future, the shop was 2002AD.

Name: Yoda
Category: BMW '02s
Date Added: 2022-06-30
Submitter: Yoda

Yoda

Hello,

Do you have a 228mm flywheel, with good teeth/ring gear? Thank you.