Autoslave
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Posts posted by Autoslave
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Here's a weird perspective: If you are installing it in a garage, I oriented mine so cars would back into the garage for hoisting.
I did this because I like the light and ventilation near the garage door. it really works for me but others are always perplexed.
Also, I would avoid installing it outside of what MaxJax specifies or will tell you in writing.
Dave
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I am sure I have mixed up some of the cam work terminology, Web treated me VERY well, they offered to make me a Frankenstein cam out of it, but it had rust pits to boot, so out with the old.
The deal was that the numbers on my cam didn't indicate what it was, I even sent photos to Germany and Schrick said they couldn't be sure on the duration, so I don't mind the expense, ($500 new cam) because I got good news on the head!
I am hoping for an independence day sale price I saw advertised on Schrick cams at VAC motorsports in Philly.
As I fumble around this engine, I still don't know why the previous owner had it dismantled 3 years ago. I was told the head failed/ had a hole in it?
What I know: 1. the head was ported and polished.
2. my machine shop has pressure tested it -OK.
3. the machine shop is performing a valve job.
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Update:
My Cam was pronounced dead, I was told by Web that it was a 320...
Corrosion pitting was not work fixing and hard chroming.
Now I am in the market for a Schrick 304.
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Update:
My Cam was pronounced dead, I was told by Web that it was a 320...
Corrosion pitting was not work fixing and hard chroming.
Now I am in the market for a Schrick 304.
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17 hours ago, visionaut said:
Given those look like 45s, imma wager your cam’s a 304, if it’s a Schrick.
Does the center cam journal in your head have a ‘notch’ in the edge of it? (304) or if your journals are actually circumferentially enlarged it’s a 316… (the latter is a tad much on the street).
Tom
Hi Tom,
At present the cam is on it's way to web cam for inspection and repair and the head is at a nearby machine shop, I am excited to look for the notch when it returns.
Dave
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Hi All,
I got this from Schrick:
Hello David,
by knowing the number you had on the first pictures and the info it is a M10
I think it could bee a shortened number for:
00201040
Because the first 0 did not exist in the past, the 01 just tells camshaft and that’s something we can see.
So long time ago sometimes they had shortened the number
I take a look and I think it is a BMW M10 304°duration, 108° peak timing, 10.7mm valve lift cam, with 2.9mm valve opening in TDC.
Mit freundlichen Grüßen
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Thank you,
I have previously been on other forums, like Bimmer, Rennlist, Pelican, OTT, The Samba, The Hamb, and a few others.
I have never felt so well informed and welcome. I am truly honored and humbled.
Not sure if I can ask here or if I have to go to classifieds, but I need a set of rocker arm shafts as mine are pitted too deeply.
I was going to purchase them new but could only find one of them.
Please advise.
Dave
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Hi Steve,
Thanks for the super thorough thread on engine I.D.
Now I have edited my earlier post to reflect the correct engine number.
I was looking at numbers on the bell housing...
Dave
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Hi All,
I am a brand new owner of this beautiful 1972 2002tii.
It is from upstate NY near Lime Rock Park. I have purchased the car from someone who does not have information on the various modifications.
Having bought the car with the head off of the engine, I am hoping the 2002 gang can help me identify what's going on with the cylinders bore and head.
The engine was torn to the block 3 years ago, I have sent the head for inspection and repair.
1. I think the laser etching on the pistons is a giveaway of their age.
2. The car has dual side mount /down draft Webers.
3. The cam has suffered corrosion damage while stored in the passenger footwell.
I am concerned that the current cam and carb combo may be too severe for street driving.
Thanks in advance,
Dave
Recaro for sale
in Miscellaneous
Posted
The sliders go for 500 in europe per set!