cvvick

This morning when I tried to start my 1974 tii, the key would only go to 'Accessories' and no amount of jiggling would move it to 'Start'.  Not sure what could cause this.

Do I need to replace the lock cylinder? Perhaps lubrication  (graphite? silicone?)

It looks like this is common problem.  @mike self you mentioned you have an article on how to fix could you send it to me?

23 hours ago, Mike Self said:

Presuming this isn't a megawatt stereo/amp, the most convenient spot is the fat red wire on the back side of the ignition switch.  It comes VFR from the battery (no fuses, so be sure and have an in-line fuse for your stereo). 

 

Check with a voltmeter (ign off) to make sure you have the correct wire, then use a piggyback terminal to hook things up.  Both my cars are wired that way and it works fine.  

 

Just remember...if you have a radio with a memory, that's the wire that should be connected to the "always hot" lead on your stereo.  But use a switched (off with the ign off) source for the rest of the stereo, or you'll have to remember to turn it off every time you leave the car.  When our cars were built, radios didn't have memories, so you connected your radio to a switched power source.

 

mike

 

mike

 

Thanks, yes, the stereo has an in-line fuse so this should work fine. I think I tap into the red/white wire on the hazard switch to avoid having to disassemble more and keep all the connection in the same place.

Thanks for the help on switched power

I realize I also need a UNSWITCHED power source for the stereo. Is there a good place to tap under the dash?

23 hours ago, BMW 1600-2 said:

There is a switched line for radio taped off behind the center console on the wire bundle going to the emergency flasher switch.  It is purple with a white stripe and goes back to fuse #6.

Here's what mine looks like. I do see or feel the connector following the wiring harness. Notice that one my violet white wires have been cut. Is that an option?  It done appear to have power. Does the hazard switch need to be connected?

I'm installing a headless  amplifier/radio/Bluetooth unit in my 1974 2002tii. Where (under the dash) would be a good place to tap for switched power.  Barring that, what about just power?

On 2/13/2022 at 10:54 AM, John76 said:

 

Yes...as Mike said, the brake lights and backup lights are not connected in any way to the turn signals/hazard flashers.

Are you sure your LED bulbs were in the correct taillight sockets?  Turn signal, brake, and backup bulbs are all 21W. The rear parking/driving lights are 10W. 

Which fuse? Which dash lights? The dash light that cannot be converted to LED is the alternator light. The incandescent bulb passes current in two directions, which is needed to energize the alternator and then extinguish when the system is charging. LEDs are polarity sensitive.

 

John

I tried to replace all (9) the dash indicator lights. Perhaps it was the alternator bulb that was causing the issue. I may try again when I have my gauge cluster out again

I had only replaced the 21w brake and backup bulbs. I had not yet replaced the read parking lights. 

Looking for some insight/pointers:

When I move the turn lever up or down, there is a continuous buzzing coming from the flasher relay (I think), and the bulbs don't light. When I push the Hazard button, there is clicking and all 4 bulbs light up. Could it be a bad flasher relay - I thought I recalled hazards have their own? Any input would but appreciated.

I bought a set of 13 steel rims that purportedly came off 1972 2002. 

Three of the rims are 15 cm wide while the fourth is 16 cm wide. What's the correct width for a 2002tii? Any idea what the 16cm rim is for?

8460 Belvedere Avenue
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Repair of speedometers and clocks

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Does a shop or vendor have to add themselves to the list or can a member add a vendor that they are aware of or has worked with recently?

I want to verify: Is the "wood grain" gauge cluster standard on '74 tii? My car currently has black and I'm considering replacing it. BTW, do you need to removed the dashboard to replace the gauge cluster?

Good points. I'll see if there are radiator service tags.

I did buy the car in California, and was able to trace it back to 1997 through CA Smog records. According to the seller it's a "one family" car originally purchased in New Jersey and brought to CA. I was able to trace the seller's residence addresses back to New Jersey so the part of the story holds. Unfortunately, my request to the New York and New Jersey DMVs for registration records came up empty. 

Thanks Son of Marty. It just took more forceful persuasion to get the lightbulb disconnected.

Bonus: once disassembled, I cold see a repair label from a speedo shop in San Francisco with the the date, 11-6-87. This pushed back my records of the car in California another 10 years.

I'm removing  my tii clock. There are three wires: two spade connections and another white wire in a copper "barrel". How do I disconnect the non-spade wire? It doesn't rotate and when I tug on the wire it seems to be "spring-loaded".

I've search the faq but was able to find a topic that cover this specifically.

Thanks

I got a new windshield washer pump and and rebuild kit for my steering box.

Thanks for the responses. I've acquired an 8 prong switch and will install/test once I get my battery back in the car (currently install euro front bumpers on my '74 tii)

I'll take one

I was replacing the hazard switch on my '74 tii (won't stay pressed in and I don't want to try to repair), and I noticed it was a 6 prong switch. The plug is 8 prong. Did the PO screwup? Should I get a 8 prong? The car does has some strange electrical issues (left running lights, dash board lights don't work.) They could be something else, but strange coincidence.

I have front/rear bumpers from 02bumpers.com plus their '74-'76 adapter kit. Has anyone done this swap on a '74? I've contacted Chris but he hasn't responded to my request for info. Basically. I"m looking for information on which adapter to use where and how to mount to the body. One adapter is a tube and looks to fit over the shock, but the other adapter is square, but doesn't fit in the hole left by removing the shock. Any insight is welcomed. Thanks

I'm swapping out my old bumpers for euro spec bumpers. The mounting adapters have the new bumper sticking out too far  - I want to tuck them in.

I'm a bit wary trying to drive the car into a a wall/tree. Is this the way any else has done it?

I/m replacing the diving boards on my '74 tii and I'm looking for some pointers.

I've drilled into the front pistons (near the front) and relieved the pressure - fluid came out.

Any tips/techniques for compressing the pistons toward the nose?  They won't budge even with some gentle (so far) persuasion with a hammer