Wah

1 hour ago, TobyB said:

Make sure it's engaging- I remember having a heck of a time with the reds.

 

And yes, my recent experience with Koni has been less than 100%.

They will warranty it out, but it takes a while if you're not willing to

do a paid up- front exchange.  If they DO that, keep poking at them-

otherwise, they seem to 'forget' that they were waiting for Koni EU to

'okay' the replacement and refund your money.

 

t

 

It was definitely engaging because I was turning it 2 and a quarter turns, lock to lock.  I spoke with Koni this morning about it and my experience was also less than 100%.  He basically told me that I can not tell by compressing and extending it by hand if the adjustment was doing anything (even though on the working shock, it is obvious there is more resistance when I turned it to full firm).  I don't know, I'm no expert...  but why do three shocks behave differently from that one? 

Just for future reference...

The front struts turn 2 and a half turns from full soft to full firm.  I set them at 1.5 turns starting from full soft.

The rear shocks turn 2 and a quarter turns from full soft to full firm.  I tried to set them both at 1.5 turns from soft but they felt completely different.  I discovered that one of them is defective because it doesn't really feel any different when I adjust them. Ugh. 

17 minutes ago, TobyB said:

On the yellows, it's 1 3/4 turns or so from full solid to full soft.

 

Or is that 2 3/4?  I forget.  I always record it in 'clicks from hard'.

 

You can easily tell when you adjust it- spin it one way, then spin it the other.

 

The only adjustable I ever used that was not externally adjustable was the

Koni Red, a non- gas shock that you compress fully to adjust.

Is that how yours are?

 

t

 

Yes, for the front struts, you use an Allen key to turn the end of the shaft while fully compressed.  For the rear shocks, you remove the internal bump stop, then compress fully and turn.  I'll probably just set them at 50% and call it a day.  I was just wondering what other people with Koni/H&R springs used to reduce the chance I will need to pull them again to adjust them since I understand dampening needs to be somewhat matched with spring rates. 

Thanks... yes, as far as I know, they have to be removed to be adjusted, so doing 1/2 turns and testing really isn't realistic for me.   Does anyone know how may full turns it takes to go from full soft to full stiff?  

Hi,

Anyone have any recommendations on how firm to set the Koni adjustable dampers when paired with H&R sport springs?   Would you set the fronts and rears the same number of turns?  This would be for street use, not track. 

thanks

15 hours ago, bavariaboy said:

Intercourse PA is across the river from Paradise PA.   One often follows the other. 

And just like in life, if you start at Intercourse but go the opposite direction from Paradise, you end up in Blue Ball.  If you're lucky, you'll end up in Lititz, or maybe Bird-in-Hand. 

Just to update this thread, I spoke with IE and they didn't hesitate to send me out a replacement.  I asked them to send me one without ceramic coating and refund me the difference when they get the first one back and they were happy to do it.  We ended up still needing to make the replacement fit with a torch and hammer.  The clearance is still tighter than what you see in the photo after tightening down the rest of the IE stainless steel exhaust.  I'm hoping it is not an issue, but the header still sits really close to the idler arm bushing, so I am a little concerned about the heat. 

Going through an install of the street/track header right now and all I can recommend is to avoid the ceramic coating.  When I went to test fit my brand new ceramic coated header, for whatever reason, the bottom two pipes didn't clear the idler arm with the center link installed.  If I didn't have it ceramic coated, then I probably could have just banged it out to make it fit.  IE was awesome to deal with and they sent out a new non coated replacement which should be delivered today.   You can always coat it after getting it fitted.

26 minutes ago, AustrianVespaGuy said:

I actually had this problem with my Supersprint headers, so I promise you're not alone!  I first tried dimpling them in the right spot (just squoze it in a vice a bit to oval out that area) which gained me enough clearance to get it to 'fit,' but it still banged around a bit during certain situations/loads.  I then put in either a 1/8" or 3/16" shim on top of the engine mount and that REALLY fixed things.  Now zero problems! So good luck with it, but I'm confident you won't let this stop you now!

 How much clearance do you have now between the header and the nut? 

Thanks for the replies.  I think we'll try a combination of shimming and maybe putting dents in right spots of the tubes.  I'll talk to the mechanic about checking the position of the engine and moving it as much as reasonably possible.  I'm sure we can make enough room to clear the arm, but my concern is how much the engine and the header move around during acceleration.  I'm not too sure what minimum clearance I will need to prevent contact during driving. 

What is the "stopping plate"?  I need to check that but I'm not sure which part that is. 

Hey all...  first post in the main forum.  Picked up a '74 2002 in October and absolutely loving it.  After getting a bunch of work done on it over a couple of days,  we went to install a new ceramic coated IE street/track header, only to find during test fitting that the idler arm barely clears the bottom two tubes.  With the center link back in place, the nut touches them.  I've read that this happens occasionally, and that heating them and banging them out with a BFH is one method to clear the arm, but I'm afraid I will ruin the ceramic coating on my header.  I wasn't able to get in touch with IE (I guess they are closed for the weekend).  Any advice on how to proceed?  I'm so disappointed that after all the work we did without any issues, we were stopped right as we were finishing up...  we were so close! 

How could they list this car like that with no reserve?  No interior photos?  No engine photos?  No undercarriage photos?  I bet the auction will end early before it closes.  Is it even a legit turbo or a clone?  

anyone have any extra black rocker sill trim clips (W & E 2303)?  I need 6 of them.  

thanks!

Do you have a driver door belt trim?

Thank you.  Hoping to find something used but in good shape.  

Anyone have a driver door belt trim piece?

3 hours ago, stephers said:

I have both   Send me an email   afaspider1969@gmail.com      I can send you pictures 

 

Thanks, Rick

Email gets send back undeliverable.  Did you make a typo somewhere?

Hi looking for a 74 tach and the glass face for a clock swap. 

Looking for a tach and glass to swap out a clock from the cluster of an 1974 automatic to 5 spd conversion.  USA

No problem!  Good luck!

There's a couple on facebook in the northeast.  One in jersey.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/425969491716155/

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/3510042282350822/

Hi I can't PM for some reason... I assume you are still selling these?

1 hour ago, JWT said:

This guy (company) selling this 2002 are known scammers/liars so beware....

Jon Kirkegaard is the seller.  He advertised it on Facebook.