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hudo12

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Posts posted by hudo12

  1. 44 minutes ago, mike said:

    Good luck. The lens was literally melted into the chrome frame and wasn't designed to be removable.  

     

    Someone on the FAQ was working on a replacement lens that could be press fitted/glued into the original frame, but haven't seen any posts as to its success.  You might check the archives. 

     

    mike

    Got it, thanks for taking the time to reply.

  2. 15 hours ago, Brandon said:

    I only have the early chrome window latches, not the later black version.  No mirrors, sold what I had.

    Could you send me pics of the best latches and how much you want for them. I’m assuming there in good working order? Also, front bmw grill, the center chrome piece? 

  3. So I will be pulling the heater box. The hose circled in red is a hose from the back of the engine to the firewall into the heater box. How do I cap this off at the engine? I want to still drive my car while I work through the heater re build. Thanks !

    B48CBEA9-921A-40DC-925A-F65CFE695ECF.jpeg

  4. 13 minutes ago, Conserv said:

     

    I’m smiling at this statement. Rob chose Just Needs a Recharge as the title for his book — I’m guessing — because every old car’s for-sale ad says precisely that, “Just needs a recharge”. It’s as ubiquitous, and probably as accurate as, “The check’s in the mail.” ?

     

    But, beware, most older A/C systems are abandoned because they need more than simply a recharge, which is where Rob’s book enters the picture....?

     

    Regards,

     

    Steve

     

    yes as a person new to this, I will take this into consideration. But for someone who has no clue, it is fun for me ( FOR NOW ) you guys impress me with ya'lls knowledge and willingness to share is greatly appreciated.

  5. 24 minutes ago, Conserv said:

     

    But assume, at minimum, that the A/C system needs a recharge. And it probably needs a recharge because of a leak. And without fixing the leak, and recharging it, you're not going to develop a very clear picture of what '02 A/C is capable of... ?

     

    I’m not saying that ‘02 A/C is great, no, far from it. But working properly, it can make a big difference as to when you are comfortable driving your car.

     

    Like the heater box, it's a bit of a slippery slope. Besides the auxiliary fan relay that Paul (@wegweiser) noted, some Behr A/C cars have a relay for the heater blower that is wired into the A/C system. These relays are under the dashboard. See the Behr A/C Installation Instructions and Replacement Parts brochures for more info (hint: there are two wiring diagrams).

     

    http://www.2002tii.org/kb/150

     

    Mike S. (@mike) additionally reports that his Frigiking-equipped '02 has a relay for the compressor. I'm only familiar with the Behr and Clardy units, neither of which has a relay for the compressor.

     

    All in all, simply buy a copy of Rob Siegel's excellent book on automotive air conditioning, Just Needs a Recharge!

     

    Regards,

     

    Steve

     

    All great info, the seller told me the a/c works fine but it did need a recharge. As far as the instructions., mmmm, I am illiterate when it comes to instructions. I am not mechanically inclined. But I do have the drive to learn. 

    • Like 2
  6. 18 minutes ago, wegweiser said:

    I bet if you lubricate it with some spray stuff / penetrating oil and gently move it back and forth for about 15 minutes, you have a very good chance of bringing it back to life without spending 11+ hours taking the whole thing apart.

     

    That's what I'd do.... in my 30+ years of 2002 silliness, I've had very good luck with saving these without complete disassembly. 

     

    Relay for the AC is usually on the passenger side of the engine bay - and I think it's for the aux electric fan in front of the radiator. Rob Siegel is the AC guru... he'll be able to offer you more info than I can on that specific stuff. I pitch the AC on all my cars. :)

    Yes, from what i am reading they (a/c) are pretty much useful, doesn't really keep the car cool. but its already there, and I'd like to try it before I get rid of it, ya know? 

    • Like 1
  7. 12 hours ago, wegweiser said:

    i recommend you take a long slender screwdriver and see if the fan blades move ***BEFORE*** laying 12 volts on that circuit. A seized motor could very well zorch your wiring before the fuse blows. Melted wiring would make a miserable heater repair job even worse. 

     

    Be smart.

     

    And in reference to "being smart"....don't do what I did: DON'T Spray a bunch of flammable lubricant on the fan while the switch is on, and then create a spark by wiggling the wires with your finger while your face is cozied right up next to it, on the top of the firewall. You'll lose some eyebrows. You'll feel dumb. Trust me.  ;) 

    I was able to get my finger tot he fan blade last night. The blade moved ( Barely ) I had to force it to pretty hard and it only moved a small amount. At this point, I think I am going to just remove the box and dig into it. its just funny how I hear not one bit of noise when I turn the fan on. I even tried the air condition and I get the same results. And I changed all the fuse when I first bought the car. ANd re checked them and all is good there. Oh, now that I am typing, do you know if there is a relay for  the a/c? and if so, where might it be located. Thanks...

  8. 54 minutes ago, ray_ said:

    Howdy,

     

    You have read the tech article on heater box refurb,right?

     

    Cheers,

    Yes, but wanted to see if I could make sure it wasn’t something I could do or test, before yanking the unit out. 

    aTm? 

  9. So for the past several days I have searched the archives for my question, UTL. Is there a check or trouble shoot list for me to do before I attempt to yank my heater box out? I have a 76 02, bought it about 6 months ago. When I turn the controls on their is no response or  noise, no fan movement, nada. Any suggestions?

  10. 1 hour ago, Bibm5 said:

    I searched every thread and could not find any measurements. I went off of the pictures and eyeballed the first front and rear fender. From that I then took precise measurements to copy the placement on the opposite side of the car. I can provide measurements from my car if you would like.
    You need to cut the original fenderslips out first before attaching the vw fenders. And you do need to weld the inner and out wheel well pieces together in the rear. It's kind of a pain but it really isn't that bad. In my opinion, if you can afford a shop to do it all, I would. It does feel good to have done it myself but all in all I probably had 100 hrs just in metal work alone. All in awkward, uncomfortable back aching positions.
    But now it's over and I'm happy again emoji16.png.

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
     

    Thanks again for the info. I have no clue how to weld, so a shop is going to do it. I think yours look good, and you have ownership in the job. That is awesome to say. Have a great weekend....

    • Like 1
  11. 5 hours ago, Bibm5 said:

    Yes, you need 2 right rears and 2 left rears. Then you make relief cuts along the edges to make them fit right and weld the seams up. There are 2 videos of people doing the job on YouTube that pretty much made it possible for me to feel confident about doing it myself. If you can't find them I can post links.

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
     

    10-4, I think I’ve watched those. I just don’t know if measurements are necessary or available? Or is it just eye balled? I’ve seen on the turbo fender install that the rear appear to be welded after the cuts are made. The inner sheet metal is welded to the outer fender. I’m assuming the same goes for the metal fenders. I’m more than likely going to have a body shop do it. Hopefully I can find one in my area that is capable of doing so. 02’s are non existent where I live. Thanks for taking the time to pass on the info. BTW, it looks like you did a good job on your. Love the look!

  12. 50 minutes ago, Bibm5 said:

    Yes, that's what they look like. You cut most of the excess material off before you weld them on though. They go over top of the sheet metal after you cut a good bit of fender out. It's extensive work, definitely not a quick/ simple job. I'm sure a professional body man/ welder would do it different/ better than I did but I'm happy with how they turned out. 90dd6b0659dc53ecd43ae7e6f5da4fd8.jpgce1462ec1729e150922ca3ccfd340999.jpga3df3f9414b66a149665a46e2dcbf7d6.jpg7285861ec7208f7051762c228babf5b1.jpg

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
     

    One more ? Are the rear fenders used for the front as well?

  13. On 11/10/2017 at 8:32 PM, Bibm5 said:

    There are many threads on turbo style fenders but not nearly as much information on rabbit fenders, and even less info on installing them.
    I was hoping that if you have vw rabbit fenders on your car you could post some photos please. A couple Beauty shots and maybe one or two closer up of the front and rear fenders. I know it would have made me feel a lot more confident when figuring out the placement on mine if there was a collection of pics and info.
    I'm just about done with mine but still have a little bit of tie in work to do in the rear on the bottoms.
    I have 13" wheels on mine now and plan to jump up to 15" further down the road along with sport suspension but for now while I still have this project going I installed wheel spacers to flush the tires up and started the spring cutting process. I cut a half coil today and I'll reassess the height next week.
    I don't mind the height now but it would probably look better about an inch lower.
    And my apologies if there is already a thread like this that I missed.
    Last 2 pics are before I cut springs (just to show my placement).
    If anyone is interested here's the fenders I used. They were very cheap, only $115 for all 4!
    2 of these
    http://www.fixmyrust.com/Item/1975-1984_2_Door_VW_Rabbit__Rear_Wheel_Arch_Passenger_Side
    And 2 of these
    http://www.fixmyrust.com/Item/1975-1984_2_Door_VW_Rabbit__Rear_Wheel_Arch_Driver_Side
    41b6ad6c51a04bfb4d8455ff1086f62c.jpg&key=1bba609fdd6172f476da18005f8b51d4fc1e8bc98e38de83fcff533bf3b321ddb92fcf87f83ae8b0a816384cba6dea90.jpg&key=f77162828eb51c38a000223089ac0585bb328a325f0c922b9e97f5f7965a35299d239a5be97137a4decc65295ade5c64.jpg&key=2e6de3b12a3a4cc42d75d9dccc63512f3ff4024c5e428031469d6b6b3fe75fdcb1a32fb28f3fd3081016d81b87b06bfd.jpg&key=7607fe2da6b0a8893cced0cc65c6bb3916ae30da2d80e087becb0fcdd292ee3ee1fdcc0452b6fb4c8672fd653ba80b67.jpg&key=5e1ff27d1f8ee152fde37eab46674dee348ab65c653530ca9c84d1be3cffb33a
     
    Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
     
     

     

    3174059R - Passenger Side Rear Wheel Arch 95 20 59 2 for 1975-1984 MK1 Volkswagen Rabbit Are these what the fenders look like in the web add you included above? I am assuming they fit under the fender or inside the fender?

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