j.m.

Still have these? 

To get a good finish with these 'vapor hone' machines there is still an abrasive blast cleaning step used to remove contaminates and produce a rough surface finish, then low pressure fresh glass beads compress the small peaks produced in a gentle way similar to ball burnishing to leave a smooth finish.

The water stream is more effective than using air at moving large amounts of media but the same results can be obtained in a conventional dry cabinet.

Put simply, the term vapor hone is just a marketing gimmick.  We can all fabricate some grand words for a conventional blast cabinet as well, doesn't change the process though. It's all rather simple but takes a bit of experience and a good amount of time to get right.

I apologize for the poor quality of the first picture but it shows clearly the difference between a fine abrasive silicon carbide grit and the final low pressure glass bead blasting, all done in a dry cabinet. Glass beads were sprayed at 20-25psi and many cheap cabinets simply won't flow at that pressure. 

$100, same as rebuild cost without needing a core 

11 hours ago, Rich said:

Hi J.M, would a NOS pair of Weber DCOE 50's do you any good, with air cleaners, 

Thanks Rich, I've been eyeing your carbs for a while now. I'll send you a message. 

Any takers at $150? Double boxed and ready to ship 

Just as the title states, looking for an Italian DCOE 45 pair, in need of a rebuild is preferred because I'll tear them apart anyway. 

Thanks!! 

Looks like Stahl to me

Thanks for the update! 

When's the last time the distributor was known to work well? Any shaft play? 

Still have this, open to offers 

Thanks Steve!  I'm thinking about sending this block to someone who needs a 2l, I'll let him break it down and make the decision if the walls are thick enough to open up.

The head (and all the other parts I got from this old feller) is mildly corroded and severely crusty with centuries of grease and crap all over them but I don't remember much damage, I'll clean it up and see if anyone wants it. 

Yes, I thought about cleaning the rust off the VIN tag but figured someone would know from the bore and piston done shape.

Assuming the rings are frozen, what would the desirability be for this lump? I'm guessing the 121ti head I got in the group with this engine is what was originally on there. 

Thanks! So potentially someone put the air pump bracket in there.  Any idea if these blocks are okay to bore out and use as a 2l? 

Bore is 84mm, late style dipstick and air pump bracket, I don't particularly feel like pulling off the oil pan to see what the crank is. Any ideas what this came from? 

Prices are firm? Not meaning to offend here but everything looks like you pulled it out of the bay after letting it soak for 20 years, who knows how thin those header tubes are especially after taking the rust off. Most would consider the struts scrap after the spindle gets rust on it and similar for the gearbox. 

I'm interested in the lower windshield corners, front and rear 

^^^

Would you be interested in trading the carbs for a set of old Italian 40s in perfect rebuilt condition? I would want a little cash on top considering the time that went into them. They are currently jetted with all new jets and emulsion tubes per Alpina specs and were rebuilt with sealed bearings so the leather seals were omitted. 

I'm open to offers as well, just took a stab at pricing based on sold ebay listings. 

New in package Geba water pump, my guess is 8-10 years old.  It was sealed in the original bag for that time and I stupidly took it out of the bag and tossed it thinking it was a standard m10 pump. You're right, I should have just read the label. 

Shaft turns smooth, no corrosion, only some discoloration on the pulley mounting flange and my guess is that it's from my greasy fingers. 

I will seal it back up in the original box with some packing material in there for shipping to keep it safe. 

I'll send you pictures of what I have when I get home 

10 hours ago, Marcos Gomez said:

you are correct sorry about that fixing it now

 

2002s and the old VWs are both 4x100 which is why I was asking, are there adapters on the car?  Easy to measure with a tape measure or ruler, 100mm=~4"

And for the record, this is from an e30 318i early model, not an m3.  You'd need to run the accompanying oil pump that came from that engine which does happen to be the same part as the s14 oil pump.

There are two grounds, one for the signal and one to valve cover, a +12v, and the spark signal itself.  I believe they are the 2.0L TSI coils, can find pigtails all over the internet.  The signal wire is a smaller gauge than the rest and will help you orient pin 3

2 hours ago, jimk said:

j.m.  You don't happen to know what the pinout is at the coil?  Searching but haven't hit on it yet. Jim

I drive a b5 daily, I can throw a multimeter on there.  My coils are the style before those but it's a common 'upgrade' to swap those in with a new sub harness.  I believe only the connectors are different.