1974_Verona

VW for sure: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/vw-outside-door-handle-beetle-karmann-ghia-super-beetle-113837205m?ads_cmpid=352578319&ads_adid=22976872639&ads_matchtype=&ads_network=g&ads_creative=85227587119&utm_term=&ads_targetid=pla-95712125345&utm_campaign=&utm_source=adwords&utm_medium=ppc&ttv=2&gclid=EAIaIQobChMItOiJ7PiL1wIVkrbACh1UkAmAEAQYAiABEgJn2vD_BwE

I dont think any portion of it will interchange. 

Sold to a very nice local person who will give it a great home. Thanks for looking. 

If your local wrench has old school tools, you can test the AMP draw when you engage the starter. Most older (perhaps newer, I havent bought one in decades) digital volt meters were offered with a clamp over cable inductive pickup. Place that over the + cable, then engage the starter, the DVM will show AMPS drawn. 80-100 AMPs is fairly typical. If its more than that Id suspect the starter is on its way out. 

As for cranking and not starting, Webers are an odd lot. Ive seen more than a few come through the shop so badly adjusted the transition port was exposed at idle, which will lead to very rich cranking mixtures, so much so the throttle needs to be applied to get it lit. There is a fairly specific order in which you set up the base adjustments of a Weber, a black art of sorts, but with process and logic. A perfectly set up summer carb can be a PITA to get lit in the winter, etc. 

The Bentley manual for Weber carbs is quite good as a basic guide to set up. 

https://www.amazon.com/Weber-Carburetors-Owners-Workshop-Manual/dp/1850100209

Ive decided to sell my 74 verona no roof 2002. My itch for a 911 has become too much to tolerate mixed with having far too many cars in any case. 

1974 BMW 2002, Verona red w/tan interior. PNW car brought to Colorado in 2014. Incredibly straight survivor with 3 areas of rust: 8" strip in nose panel, 1" lower left front fender, 1" rear wheel well, forward low. Spare tire well was replaced with a 320i well. There are two areas that were re sprayed in the past (when is unknown to me): LF fender (no evidence of filler), LR quarter panel (slight evidence of filler). Floors (F&R), rockers, shock towers, doors, trunk, hood and rear valence are RUST FREE. This car was undercoated when new, that, coupled with what must have been inside storage, have rendered a VERY unapologetic survivor. This car is 43 years old. It has dents, scratches and the like. I suspect that if you are reading this, you know how hard it is to find a survivor like this, and that more work might be needed to get it where YOU want it. 

The headliner is rough, having been hastily patched in the past. Seats, carpet and door cards in good condition. Dashboard has two small cracks, either side of the gauge pod. Glass and switch gear are in very good condition. Trim/bright work shows signs of being 43 years old.

Now, for the good part: the mechanicals. I have been a technician for 30 years and own an independent garage. I have been working on 2002's since the mid eighties. Good, we have that out there.

I might be forgetting something in the following description. If it needed replacing, even in the least, it got replaced during the mechanical rehab. I suspect any serious buyer/inquiry will be followed by a personal visit, so we can go over it ALL then. I have over $15,000 worth of PARTS receipts alone, with no accounting for my labor (which there has been MONTHS of).

Cylinder head: 1984 E12 casting, completely rebuilt with all new parts. Hot tanked, decked .002" TRW valves, guides, and springs. 3 angle cut on valve seats. Ireland Engineering 292 cam. Febi rocker arms, BMW rocker shafts with all new hardware and eccentrics. Lash set to .008" cold. 123 Ignition TUNE (fully USB programmable solid state distributor, no pints, condensoer etc) with an OE coil, new wires, cap, rotor and plugs. Weber 38/38 synchronized carb, OE 2BBL manifold properly opened for that carb. Jetted for Colorado (lowlander jets included). Fully set up on a rolling road dyno.

Block: 1972 2.0 liter. Hot tanked, line bored, mains and rods .010" over, crank ground and polished. Rods lightened to 713 grams and matched within 1/10g, new rod bushings. 9.5:1 "piano top" pistons .010" over. New cam and oil pump chains & all guides/rails. Most metal parts were media blasted and semi-flat black enameled. Valvoline high zinc 20W/50 oil used exclusively. 

Cooling system: OE LR metal radiator has been recored, tanks soldered and dressed, new water pump, IE silicone hose set, 170º F thermostat and new BMW 5 blade fan (410mm). 

Exhaust: Ireland Engineering 4:1 step header (black ceramic coated) with full stainless 2" exhaust system. New gaskets and hangers. Sounds good, not too loud. 

Chassis: Both front and rear subframes removed and pressure washed. All (yes, ALL) bushings renewed with urethane bushings that have been properly lubricated upon installation. New brake rotors and drums with pads/shoes, new wheel cylinders. All wheel bearings and seals are new and packed with Bel-Ray grease. New rubber brake lines. H&R springs (1.25" drop), Bilstein HDs, and new strut top bearings. OE 13" steel wheels were media blasted, repainted proper metallic silver and new tires mounted (with balance weights inboard for a clean look). 

Driveline: Getrag 242 (4 speed) has been resealed and filled with proper GL4 gear oil. New guibo joint, and center support bearing. Diff resealed and filled with proper GL4 oil. New LUK 215mm clutch set mounted to a surfaced OE flywheel. All shifter bushings replaced. ALL hydraulics renewed, battery moved to trunk. 

Seats are 2008 Honda seats, but I have a nice set of OE tan seats that go with the car, as well as spare parts. I have a ton of pics, just request and I will fill your inbox. Im selling this because I have too many cars. Ive relived my teen years with this, time for someone else to have some fun with it. 

$15,000 OBO - Yes, I know, Im probably high here, will make the right deal for a FAQ member. 

Please ask whatever questions you have, I will do my best to answer them quickly. 

https://cosprings.craigslist.org/cto/d/1974-bmwspeed-no-sunroof/6350003941.html

#19 looks bent in the #2 pic as mentioned by Mark. Stephers points are all correct, I’m just too spoiled by having lifts I guess. I get the sentiment about a 5 speed “paying for itself”, but that has to be a figurative term? Trans, driveshaft, fabricating the shift platform, welding/bolting tunnel ears, etc? You’d have to drive it 100K miles before you earned that back ?

Thats a "late model" shifter linkage. As mentioned, there is a high density foam doughnut that goes between the body and the shifter platform on the trans. There is also a foam insert that goes in the pedal box from the interior side, still readily available. There is also an exterior pedal box cover, also of of foam, also still available. 

I see that the upward strut arm on the shifter platform is bent. It is possible the whole platform is canted back (or down) towards the drive shaft. Compound slop in the shifter linkage MIGHT let it touch the DS, but in 30+ years Ive never seen that. I have seen bent platforms allow the linkage to hit the DS (or totally hammered platform bushings, there are 3). Be sure to get the bushings for the platform as well as the linkage bushings. 

Oh- and the good news? While it may be possible to do the platform bushings insitu- you, or your mechanic, will curse for days trying to do it. Far easier with the trans out (also a great time to attend to the shifter rod seal, output & input flange seal). The trans comes out very easily, so Id just do that to tackle all those issues. 

39 minutes ago, bento said:

 

 

Cutting out out and replacing the resonator would be cheap, but not sure how much life the rest of the system might have. 

 

 

Im done polishing that turd. Its dumpster bound, and I will just get the OE system from WordPac, as I probably should have in the first place. 

Aaaaaaannddd.....

Today the center "resonator" of the IE system started to buzz at specific RPMs, then by the time I got to the shop- its rattling like a tin can full of bolts. Something cut loose in it. At this point I cannot even recommend the IE system as good parts as a starting point. Less than 4K miles on the system.  

Back in the day (the 80s) we used to spray kerosene on with a hand pump sprayer, let sit, then power wash it off with incredibly hot water. 40 some odd years later you may be looking at dynamite. Cosmoline is essentially paraffin wax thinned down with VOC's to be sprayable. VOC's evaporate, leaving the wax. 

Removers geared towards weapons are incredibly aggressive as the underlying material is typically bare metal and/or wood no one cares about (cold war era Russian rifles come to mind). 

I suspect there is no removing the staining at this point. 

You can try a soaked cotton cloth with Acetone in a out of sight spot. Turn cloth frequently, and keep damp (Acetone evaporates very quickly), suggest you wear gloves and a respirator as well. Acetone will make your hands ashen white in about 10 seconds, as it will remove every trace of skin oil. 

12 minutes ago, EPK said:

 

@1974_Verona I was wondering if the distributor might be the issue after I typed all of this.  I didn't initially suspect it as it's new but I also didn't realize they were problematic as I thought that IE was reputable.  

I suspect IEs intentions are honorable. Ive read many threads about their dizzy having a sub par quality pick up (I have no personal experience with it). I went with the 123Igntion Tune unit. THAT is built like a Swiss watch. 

Anecdotal at best, but here goes:

IE dizzy known for bad quality ignitor (inductive pick up) = no spark

18 hours ago, zinz said:

 

Elk? Archery? 

 

Ed Z

Feral Hogs, rural TX, rifle!

Curious that the recommended break-in oil is a fleet service diesel oil with little to no ash (an assumption on my part based on their vague description online as being safe for DPF & CAT), loads of detergent and presumably no zinc. I would have thought the recommended oil would have been something like Valvoline VR-1 20W/50, as that is about the only oil one can find with any ease that is near what would have been on the shelf in the 1970s. I bring this up because none of the parts you mention should be made with esoteric material that were non extant in the 1970's, and if the machinists did their work to period correct listed tolerance etc, one would think "the oil of the day" would be what you wanted to use. Break-in or otherwise.

I broke my engine in with VR-1, doing about 100 (no kidding) WOT 4th gear dyno runs. Its got 3k+ on it now and cylinder pressures are with 5 psi, leak down 2-5%on each hole. Built ver similarly to yours, using nearly the same spec parts. 

Suggest you follow the wisdom of avoirdupois & AceAndrew and add some high load + high rev, then easy driving cycles. Check again at 1500+ miles.

IE: Inexpensive, and once you order one and get it in hand, you'll know why. It sounds pretty good, but for my 50 yr old tastes its a bit loud. The muffler hangers are a joke, made from bent thin GGE metal and welded on to the muffler so out of proper clocking you'd think the Chinese factory that made it hired the blind. The hangers do NOT use the OE rubber bits properly, in fact mine cut a set of them in half in 1200 miles. I welded on new hangers of my own design in the OE manner to utilize the rubber bits and inserts correctly. The center "resonator" is not a long cylinder, but a short and wide ovoid shape. Perhaps mine was built backwards, but the resonator would touch the tunnel as it was delivered. I had to cut it out, flip it (move it FWD) and then it was clear of any body parts. 3 hours of fabrication to make it work. If you have the time and facilities for that, have at it, the $350 should be considered payment for "pretty close, but not right" parts for you to work with. 

Ansa: Back in the day (1980s) they were way cool. They also rusted the minute they came out of the box. They are still readily available from WorldPac (and Im sure other outlets). As Scoob said, for authenticity, they win hands down. 

As disparaging as my review of the IE system is, it is probably the one to go with but you will need to fool with it. Lots. 

IE header is a nice piece, for the most part. I ceramic coated mine. The only negative with it is there is no provision for tying into the trans to triangulate the header. With no brace/mount all of the exhausts twisting will eventually crack the header tubing. Most likely where the metal has crystalized next to weld (at the head or collector).  

2 hours ago, John76 said:

Just curious...are you testing on an engine dyno or a chassis dyno?

108 horses at the rear wheel doesn't sound bad. What would this equate to at the crank?

A chassis dyno, specifically a 4 roller dyno (two each side, one fore, one aft). If I can trust the dyno software, which has historically been quite accurate after many hours of fine tuning with a known crank output car, the drive train is eating 25-35 hp/tq in this 2002. You can just add that right on the RW number. 

Using a % as a loss has always amused me. It seems as if everyone and their brother applies a % loss. This is very incorrect. Take a 100hp motor, test it and it makes 80hp at the wheels. Its not 20%, its 20hp. Take that same engine and slap a turbo on it and it makes 175 hp (just to say something), apply the % loss and suddenly, quite magically, the drive train is eating 35hp, nearly twice what it was in N/A form. This is, of course, not happening. 

12 minutes ago, '76mintgrun'02 said:

Any dyno-timing-tuning progress to report?

No sir, not yet. Customer pay work got heavy, I went hunting, etc. Waiting to get a new trans in it (sourced from a FAQ member), then I will get it back on the rollers. So far its taken 2 weeks for Greyhound to get the gearbox half way here. Might be spring before it shows! 

Has to be 123 Ignition for me. "Bang for buck" does not mean cheap, it is  the person speakings perception of return on investment. For me, knowing I will never, ever, ever, have a car shut down in BFE because the phenolic foot on a set of points blew off (or have to change and set the damned things at 02:00 on the side of the road in 30º downpour), is well worth it . Heap on top rock solid timing setting, non linear map programming + perfect dwell and its no contest.

16 hours ago, mbausa2001 said:

I believe the previous owner sourced different engine components to build the engine.  Below are all the engine part numbers  I could locate.  Appreciate everyone’s feedback.  

is it me or does the bell housing look broken on that trans? 

In any event, to me, that looks like a 1.8 CIS engine. Certainly an M10, but who could tell what might have been done internally (meaning it may pr may not displace 1.8 liters)?

Fantastic read, and a beautiful car. Thumps way, way UP!

The CHAIN is not a huge deal at all, the ALIGNMENT of the OPs drive system is. So unless you too used an oil pump with a centerline offset in the drive system: No need to be terrified. Leave it, run it, forget it. This is a non-issue.

I recently rebuilt my M10- and its OP was worn past the FM spec. An entire oil pump was $700+ USD, but the parts (2002, not 320i) to fix the wear issues were the pump housing and the "orbiting cross ring"- which were about $285 from a the dealer. I too got the fat chain from WorldPac, and thought nothing of it, and its in the motor currently. My set up took one fat shim to get the correct tension (BMW no longer sells the thin ones). 

Ive logged 3K+ miles on that engine, and have done 100s of dyno runs at WOT with it. Ive bore scoped the front case down to the oil pump drive and I see no evidence of lateral interference issues.  While I am not endorsing using the S14 chain, it appears (anecdotally), that it is not the end of the world if you use it. 

Barnum for sure- I was thinking more of the "baffle them with bull(shit)" 

17 minutes ago, jgerock said:

Not sure who posted those questions.

A very savvy bunch of collectors did, of course! Don't you recognize an OPPORTUNITY when you see it? LMAO 

Tech wouldn't let that pile on track anywhere, to be sure. Stunned its got a $6200 bid. WC Fields was right...