JimM

Still have a pedal box available ?  Need it for a 76 Manual.  The one pictured looks to be for an automatic.  Thanks Jim

I don't know what PMing or PM'd mean ?  I do however need a pedal box for my 76 manual.

Thanks everyone for the feedback.  Clear as mud  so far but the consensus seems to be this is not a simple undertaking.  I am getting ready to retire in another year or two and this was part of the plan to occupy my time as golf bores me and I'm too slow to chase women.   Given that finding another body without the rust issues will likely have to come from the mid-west / west coast and shipping + the body could easily put me in for another 2-4K and I would still just have 2 project vehicles and 4-5K spent.  In hindsight this was not the one to buy in the first place but that ship has sailed.   I think I am going to start up front and work back towards the more complicated metal work, i.e. the shock towers / wheel wells and see how it goes with flat pieces like floor pans and my welding skills.  If nothing else I will learn as I go.  I figure if I take the same money that a body and shipping is going to cost me I can buy a fair amount of sheet metal , tools and a new and better welder.  Looking at a Hobart 140 as it seems to get the best reviews short of a 220V version, it's Miller's homeowner line and has a pretty broad range of capability for about $550 ?

I have close to 1000 square feet of heated shop that I built last year so I have the space and am negotiating with the wife on a 4 post lift.  The last negotiation cost me a new set of living room furniture and hardwood floors so we will see how this one goes.  If I get to the point where my skills are maxed I can take it to a pro to do those bits and pieces but in the mean time I can do the menial labor to save some cost.  My mental calculation tells me I should be able to do this for around 10K and end up with a better vehicle than my overall 12K investment could buy not including my labor hours.  That number of course would be dependent on doing the bulk of the work myself.  I'm lucky enough that I have a couple of other classic drivers that will keep me from getting depressed while this one sits as I go through the process.   

I think the first step is to install the new refrigerator into the shop and stock an ample supply of hops and barley along with copious amounts of Led Zeppelin , Pink Floyd, Grand Funk and the other songs of my youth to put me in the right mental state.  I'll go into it with an open mind and if it doesn't work at least I'll go down swinging. 

THANKS ALL

Jim

Need some advice from those that know more than me about these cars.  New to the game and the site but appreciate some of the feedback I have already gotten here.  I have the car up on blocks in the garage and am trying to assess rust to see where I stand with this.  Paid a little over 2K for the car and it runs and drives pretty well.  Started out to rebuild the pedal box and the rust findings started there and continue into various parts of the car.  The latest discovery and for me the most concerning so far are in the rear floor pan where the body mounts to the rear sub frame and also a complete blow through in the wheel well on the passenger side.  Pictures below with the last one showing some sort of goofy patch the previous owner made by riveting a piece of fairly thick sheet metal around the wheel well / shock tower inside he trunk also on the passenger side.  Just learning how to weld but not afraid (yet).  Trying to understand if the wheel well and rear floor area is something that could be patched or if this is a replacement scenario and likely beyond my weekend skill set ?  Any advice would be appreciated.   Don't want to walk away but sometimes discretion is the better part of valor.  Thanks from snowy VT and land of salt brine roads in the winter which have taken its toll on this car.

Saw some pretty good photos of what my nose section should look like from underneath/behind in another post by Tilux and a nose he removed.   It appears the entire weld and the involved metal along the bottom on mine is gone where the front skin joins the substructure.   I did get a reply from Jaymic in the UK and they can still provide a metal stamping of the lower skin.  Contemplating that route and then just try to create some new bracing of sorts underneath.  Not entirely correct but it may solve the problem unless you look behind the nose.  Otherwise from what I am hearing a full nose replacement may be beyond my weekend skill set.    The photos from underneath are a little hard to follow but I see lots of sky where I think there should be metal. The last photo shows the metal available from Jaymic with the recommended cut location marked in red.   Maybe I should just clean it all up and put on a plastic front spoiler and move along ?  This is not show car material to start with just want to drive it and not look like I'm on my way to the scrapper.

What book or publication are these scans from ?   I would love to find a copy of what ever they came out of as I am just beginning to dig into my cars rust issues.    My lower front spoiler area ( for lack of correct term) is loose all the way across the bottom edge and I can't really tell how it is supposed to fasten as things are fairly well beaten up under there.  Anyone have a photo from underneath of what it is supposed to look like ?  Any feedback would be appreciated.  Thanks

Jim

Thanks again everyone for the tips and the heads up.  Appreciate the help and advice. 

Going to continue the tear down and assess the extent of the rust and try to decide if this is the right car to try and save. 

Are any of yours still available ?  If nothing else an empty box that I can put back together as I don't think mine has a chance. Not sure I am posting this photo correctly as it didn't need to be this large.   New to the site and still learning.

Thanks

Jim

Thanks everyone ,  that was 6 hours of fun.   Appreciate the feedback ,  doubt that my box is salvageable ?   Any suggestions on a source ?  Thanks in advance. 

Thanks Hal -  Appreciate the feedback and hope to have the whole thing out of the car later today.  

Hello - new to the site as of yesterday.  Working on my 76 2002 pedal box and was able to get everything disconnected except the clutch master cylinder as the bolts are extremely rusty and I can't get enough leverage on them to break them free.  Going to pull the box with the master attached but am concerned about damaging the two fluid lines attached as I disconnect one end of each.  One goes to the brake fluid reservoir and the other over to the slave cylinder.  Are these available anyplace before I end up breaking mine in the removal process ?   Any other pointers or last minute tricks on breaking loose the 13mm fasteners from the master to the pedal box would also be welcome. 

Thanks

Jim