sealions518

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20 hours ago, jimk said:

$50 for all 4 + shipping.

Perfect!! I sent you a PM.

5 minutes ago, jimk said:

I have 4 new 3 dot upper spring pads available for the rears.

Awesome!! Are they available? What do you want for them?

I posted a while back about getting my tii closer to stock height as the previous owner rotated the front spacers and cut the rear springs. I decided to buy a set or Ireland Engineering stage 1 springs to use with with my Bilstein B6 shocks. To bring it closer to the height I want I plan to rotate the front spacers back under the car. I was told that for the back, I can stack two upper rear spring pads (pn 33-53-3-450-106 - the 37mm ones) to get it higher. Has anyone done this?

Also, anything else I should do "while i'm in there?" I know I need front top mount bearings so I will plan on that. I am just not entirely sure where I should purchase everything from and part numbers. I can definitely do the work myself but am just horrible when it comes to getting everything I need.

Thank you!

8 hours ago, adawil2002 said:

I have gone from bone stock 1973 2002 Tii Bilstein HDs with out strut top spacers & larger anti-sway bars to H&R Sports with Bilstein HDs which is the perfect recipe for 2002 suspensions.

Mike's measurements 24 1/2" front; 23 1/4" rear for stock ground to fender lip measurements are correct for stock 1973 Tii as well.  

   

The rear end of the second pic def sits lower than mine but the front looks the same. This is without any spacers correct? How do you like the ride?

2 hours ago, jgerock said:

Does your car have air conditioning? The original Behr system using a York compressor, mounting bracket and idler pulley weighs 30 lbs.  This does not include the condenser, fan, evaporator assembly nor the hoses and wiring harness.

Yes, my car has a Behr system that I believe is all original.

Is it correct that there were three different sets of spacers for these cars? And the tii springs are different than a standard 02 correct?

To start - I have searched and searched the forums and haven't had luck finding a real concrete answer. I have a 72 tii and would like the ride height to be stock (or very close). Somewhere between the birth of this car and me getting it, the stock rear springs were cut and the front spring spacers were rotated to the top. This makes, for me at least, a car that sits too low. The top of the arch of the rear wheel well sits just under 22" off the ground and there's only about 1" between this and the top of the tire. As a side note - the car has Bilstein shocks.

Can anyone recommend what springs I need and what height I should be looking for? Anything else I might be missing?

Cheers!!

Well I found some free time and was able to get this sorted with the help of Tomphot - thank you Tom for sending me the bolts and such that I needed!! 

I love this community!!

Cheers,

Josh

Well I feel like a complete idiot. With all the stuff I've taught myself with this car I can still miss the fact that I am completely missing two bolts holding my diff down (see pic). There was one nut holding with the help of some old grime.

Again, I am awful with searching and have no idea what I need - well I know the nut size ? I imagine there are a couple of washers? Can anyone help me with the bolt set and where I can find them?

Cheers,

Josh

Thank you for all the replies. I jacked up the rear yesterday and did a very quick look but nothing stood out. I got some better jack stands so hopefully I can take a better longer look soon - I’m working at home with a 2.5 year old so we’ll see how that goes ?

Hey FAQ - I have searched and searched for a close match to this problem with no luck. Maybe I am not searching the right topic or using the right words. I am including three sounds files for reference.

I have a 1972 2002tii that is presenting with an awful grinding sound that seems to be coming from the right rear of the car. The sound happens under load in first gear (sometimes second) when I push the gas pedal a little aggressively. I'm not talking full race mode, but to get it not to do it I have to take off verrry slowly. After that third and fourth gear seem to have no issues but I am also pretty light on the throttle at that time. It's a stock 4 speed transmission btw. It might be worth mentioning that the car sits low on bilstein HDs with stock springs that were cut by a previous owner. The rear sits at 22.5" from ground to wheel well lip - on 13" stock wheels on P185/70R13 tires.

HALP!!

Cheers, Josh

Tii Grind 1.m4a Tii Grind 2.m4a Tii Grind 3.m4a

I posted the following a while back about compression issues I was having between cylinders 3 and 4...

After some great feedback from the 02 community my brother and I (two newbs) were able to get the head off and see that it was indeed a blown head gasket. Also, with more advice from this community, I sent the head in to get checked. It turns out that it was cracked :/ That has since been repaired and I have a very clean head back complete with new stuff to put it all back together (gasket, head bolts, etc.). 

So, my next question relates to cleaning the block and piston tops. I have poured over many threads here but an unable to find advice on cleaning the top of pistons not currently flush with the top of the block. I followed the advice to zip tie the timing chain/sprocket and bungie it to the hood when taking off the head (see picture). What is the best way to clean the piston heads that are not flush? If I need to bring them up what the best way giving my current situation. Please remember I am a newbie so sorry if something obvious should be staring me right in the face and I am not seeing it :/

Thanks in advance 02 community

Cheers,

Josh

I did not have any overheating issues unless I ran the Behr AC. Even then, that didn't overheat like crazy. It just seems that was too much of an extra load so the car would stall after letting off ht pedal returning to idle. It still did this after I had the car professionally tuned.

Anything special with cleaning the piston tops?

Thank you!

Yeah just tying to get it running. I should add that I still have no idea which gasket to get and how I go about checking my old one to know which one to get.

So I finally carved out some free time with my brother and manged to get the head off the car. It was very evident that despite having worked on numerous cars (Hondas) we are total newbs at working on a tii. It turns out that it was a blown head gasket between 3 and 4. I am attaching pictures for reference. My new questions are:

1. Anything in the pics that is screaming "take care of me?"
2. Suggestions on a reputable shop in SoCal to get it checked/surfaced? How much should this be?
3. Any "while you're in there" suggestions? I know I want to replace the exhaust at some point but not sure where to get that from. 

Thank you!!

Thank you for the info Paul. It is not a performance motor - just a stock 72 tii that I can putz around in  I found an Elring from autohausAZ but it doesn't look like a set. Also, a lot of the other ones I am finding have different thicknesses listed.

Thank you for all of the responses - I love this community!! Any suggestions for things I should do while I am in there? This car doesn't have too many miles on a rebuilt motor that was done in the late 90s. Also, my speedo stopped working so I'll have to figure that out ha ha.

I was driving to work one morning and all of a sudden I lost most of my power and the car is making this clicking noise (see video). No over heating and no oil light on. I limp her back home and check distributoar, wires, plugs, etc - and they are all ok. I then do a valve adjustment with no change. I am a newb to my tii (I've had her two years) so I am not sure if these are even good places to start. I checked compression and cylinder 1 is 160 and 2 is 145 - cylinders 3 and 4 are showing no compression whatsoever. Any ideas are points in a direction of further research? I have a shop I can take it to but hoping I can tackle some of the diagnosis stuff myself. It's been really sad as this was my daily driver

Thank you in advance!!

I do not have a CO reader or gauge :/ perhaps it's time to take it in to get properly adjusted? I was really hoping I could tackle this myself but I think I have much more to learn. How much should I expect for that type of work?

Thanks for the responses. Yeah I'm talking about the mixture screw . . As far as I know timing, points, and coil are all in order. The rebuilt motor only has about 7k on it and all of that was taken care before I purchased it (car has Pertronix). I replaced the plugs not too long ago and I attempted to do the mixture myself yesterday. I referenced the article from Jim Rowe and Jim Brenton and I think I did it correctly but I am a newbie for sure. The car will idle just fine with the AC on its just when it goes from a higher RPM back down to an idle it usually dips below what would be the idle before settling back up there (about 900-1000 rpms). This dip down is where the stalling occurs. I am all for learning on the job to do this myself (one of the reasons I wanted to get into these cool cars) but it's sometimes difficult to know where to start.

Josh

I have a 72 tii with a Behr AC system in it. I have not been able to run the AC when it's hot outside. The car tends to run slightly differently when it's hot (SoCal high 80s) and I know that if I try to run the AC the car is going to die as soon as I'm off the accelerator and the rpms drop down to idle. With LA traffic you can imagine how many times that happens :/ 

Last night I followed the fuel pump manual from the tii registry to make sure all of that was in order (my tii has the newer tuna can). I do notice that if I make the car run leaner by turning in the screw then the AC can be run without the car dying but it also causing some slight bucking when driving (more so when the ac is off). If I make it run richer then the AC will surely cause the car to die but it's a smoother ride.

Now I know it's a 45 year old car and they don't have the modern systems to account for AC on/off but I have heard of others on the forum using these cars in my home state of AZ with AC.

Is this fixable?

Thank you,

Josh

Ha ha after all that prepping this post I stupidly wrote O2 instead of CO :/ yes I mean CO.

fixed

After referencing the throttle adjustment from the 2002 tii fuel injection pump manual it calls to read the CO% at the end and shows a picture of an CO reader. Is there a way I can do this without installing a afr gauge on my tii?

I am very new to these cars having only owning mine for a little over a year. I am however, excited to get my hands dirty!!

Best,

Josh

I fixed and replaced my pitman arm on my tii and the spring circled in the photo seems either way too loose or way to tight if I turn it a rotation to catch again. Does anyone have any insight into how tight or loose this spring should be? I have it tight right now as I figure it helps bring the pedal back off the floor. Thoughts? Thanks!!