chance.hughes

Hopefully the pictures can do these parts more justice than my words can. I have roughly two sets of fuel injection systems for an m10 engine for the BMW 2002. I do not know if any of these parts a compatible with tii cars. I do not have everything you need either to convert a carb 2002 to a full fuel injection system, but most of what you need is here. Please ask questions. And please answer other people's questions if you can. I'm looking to get $400 for the lot but I could be willing to sell parts individually. I'm in San Diego. 

Thanks guys.  I'll give Steve a call.

I broke my speedometer cable on the second round of dropping the transmission.  I'm still running a 4 speed so hopefully someone has one left over from a conversion to 5 speed.

Thanks

I have one in San Diego. Are you close by?

I checked the bowl and cleaned the jets but stopped short of a full break down and dip into carb cleaner. Any recommendations for a pressure regulator or gauge to see what the pump is putting out?

I got it all set at tdc, confirmed by removing the valve cover, matched up the markings on the crankshaft pulley and matched up the distributor for timing. I haven't been able to use the timing light to set the advance because it won't stay running long enough and the starter doesn't spin the engine fast enough.

I had trouble with the carb before in regards to starting and idle but it would run at normal speeds fine, and idle once warmed up. It would stay running today if I continually fed a small amount of fuel into the primary carb barrel with the air filter removed. I'm still using the mechanical fuel pump. It pumps but I'm not sure at what PSI. All the jets are the same as before and are smaller than the prescriptions found on here.

I'm exploring a couple different options but not confident in any of them

1. Converting to an electric fuel pump

2. Upgrading the jets and doing a rebuild

3. Replacing the carb all together maybe with a 38/38

4. Taking it in to a carb specialist to set everything.

Advice?

Can send/post a picture or what you're looking for? I may have two complete sets I can Work with you on

I just disassembled a '77 M10 and should have the plate. Let me check and send you a picture.

I've resently disassembled a M10 out of a 77 320i. I should have what you're looking for and anything else off the engine if your interested. Do you have a picture With arrows pointing the specific bolts that you can post?

Thanks! It was a lot easier than anticipated to hand turn the engine to set TDC. With that done, I set the distributor to line up with the notch on the top rim of the distributor for the #1 piston. I didn't pull the valve cover to check the cam shaft, but the notch on the crank pulley was lined up with the pointer on the timing chain cover.

Here is a quick video. Now that I have more confidence in the timing being within a few degrees, I think the carb can't keep up, either because it's dirty, not tuned properly or the jets are too small. I even tried giving the distributor about 10degrees counterclockwise advance but it didn't keep it going.

The first run in the video a depressed the gas pedal a little before turning the starter. The second run I pumped the gas pedal in and out while it was running.

trim.EFD80D51-6892-4E33-B519-FF44AB803640.MOV

I just rebuilt my '76 M10 engine and can't get everything set for it to keep running.  I have a E12 head, Weber 32/36 DGAV carb with electric choke, and electronic ignition vice the original points.  I also have a new battery, just to note.  The head and the carb and distributor are the same from before the rebuild and ran relatively okay then.  I put in larger pistons and switched to the IE shorty header.

It took me quite a while to get the timing set close enough for it run at all.  1-3-4-2 on the firing order, clockwise on the distributor.  

If I push the gas pedal for a moment before turning the starter it will fire off and run for about 2-3 seconds; initially being around 2-3K rpms.  If I hold the gas pedal in slightly while starting it will run for about 5 seconds (it doesn't sound rough or knocking like it is eating itself up so that's good).  Now, if I give it a little more gas and pump the pedal slightly in and out once it starts it will continue to run but only if I continue to work the gas pedal.  During this time it is not backfiring or sputtering or making other random noises.

*I couldn't get a spanner wrench in to set the #1 at TDC so I had to bracket the distributor in to get it aligned where it is supposed to be (that is it doesn't run at all at any other setting).  I also worked with adjusting the timing back and forth, but where it is set now is giving me the best performance, which as noted isn't great.  I do have the vacuum advance line connected to the carb.

There are a couple big no-nos I have broke up to this point, a big one related to starting is that I currently has regular gas in the gas tank.  I will now and forever more run premium, but at the moment it's regular.

Please help me out if you can.  Ask me any more questions for amplifying information.  Thanks for all the help so far!

Well there's a reason in still a newbie. Thanks so much for the reference. I tapped on the Solenoid a few times and it started working as advertised. I will look into giving it a good cleaning.

Thanks again!

I just reassembled the entire engine and start system. I think I swapped some wires. When I turn the key to start, the starter starts turning normal but when I turn the key off the starter keeps on going. I have to disconnect the battery to get it to stop. Any thoughts?

There are about 6 total. Big ones that make sense to go on the drain plug. And some small ones. I'll look at the oil sprayer. Which bolt on the distributor housing needs the aluminum gasket? I've heard of that but couldn't tell specifically where it goes. I have an e12 head.

I recently got an upper and lower gasket kit for the M10 and going off the Hayne's manual, I have no idea where any of the aluminum washers are supposed to go. And help or articles would be greatly appreciated. It's the Victor Reinz kits.

Price:: 1

Location: : San Diego

I have a completely disassembled M10 engine from a 77 320i auto that I am parting out. I do not have the connecting rods, but I do have the flat top pistons.

-E21 Head

-Starter

-Alternator

-Smog equipment

-Exhaust header

-Intake header and nearly all of the fuel injection components

Pictures to come soon.

Do you have the front passenger side orange turn signal?  The one that curves around the front corner?  PM me.  Thanks

I'm in San Diego.  I have a e21 head off a 77 320i.  I also have everything else off the M10 engine that I just disassembled for the connecting rods to rebuild my own engine.

I am rebuilding my M10 right now.  I started with two complete engines to make one, so I pretty much have an entire engine I am not using.  The block would need to be taken to a machine shop for a good bore and hone, but solid otherwise.  I have an E21 head, almost a complete fuel injection system from a '77 3 series and everything else that goes on the inside besides the connecting rods and pistons.  I have two crank shafts that are usable but need to be reground to .01 or .02 over respectively.  I willing to part with everything pretty cheap though; oil pump, front covers, oil sump pan, chains, valve cover.  I also have a setup to make it smog legal, depending on the year of your BMW.  Send me a message if interested.

Rob, thanks man. If I can get enough time to work on it myself I may definitely need a hand or some expertise in the finer details. I will let you know!

Mark, would you recommend getting the ceramic coating on the ie exhaust? Or should it be fine without it?

I don't plan on having to registering it in CA so I will definitely remove all of the smog gear but my keep it on hand in case I have to part with the car here. I am strongly considering that shorty header. Any thoughts on replacing the exhaust all the back?

I used Hopsings and Wholesale Automotive. I don't have a lot to compare them to, but I'd recommend knowing all the work you need done before going to Hopsings. Their prices are very reasonable though.

Rob S, if you end up needing any random parts for your rebuild let me know. I'm making one out of two complete engines.

The time has come. I've had everything machined, checked, gaskets delivered, bearings, piston rings...Now I'm ready to start putting it back together. Disclaimer, this is my first engine rebuild. I will post pictures as progress is made. Here is some info on what I'm working with.

-1976 BMW 2002, M10, 4 speed manual transmission

-E12 head, valve spacing not complete

-Standard crank, standard bearings

-89.47 Pistons, block is bore and hone complete

-Weber Carburetor

-Standard intake/exhaust headers

If you have any links to other posts here with helpful tips, or have little tricks that are easy to miss please let me know.

I'm doing this work in San Diego, but my car is registered in Arkansas. I am open to suggestions on an alternate exhaust header/system if you have recommendations.

Let me know if you have any questions.

I look forward to keeping you posted on the rebuild!

Thanks to everyone for the help and advice.  I was definitely about to get the work done and only have half of the stuff mentioned taken to the machine shop.  

I'm looking at other crankshafts and the specs listed in my Haynes manual.  It lists the standard regrind at +.25mm (in regards to the main bearings and big-end bearings).  I found someone that has a crank and he said it is plus 10.  I didn't know enough at the time to ask units or what it was in regards to so know I'm asking if that rings a bell with anyone?  Would someone have a +.10mm regrind? or could he be talking about something else all together?

Thanks. (sorry for being such a newbie)

The motor was rebuilt about 5 years ago, so the mileage was probably pretty low from then.  But I had an overheat beyond normal; melted a hole in the number 1 piston.  Needless to say i'm using a different set of pistons and connecting rods.  I am getting the head service also, and it bored out to fix the pistons...but I did't bring in the connecting rods to get balanced or the timing cover...

Oh and they also have my crankshaft to polish. 

Can they balance the connecting rods after all else is complete?  Do they attach the pistons to do this?