enoklite

1 hour ago, 2fast4u said:

Is this sold?

PM'd ya

41 minutes ago, tiretool2002 said:

I'll take it, how do I pay. hudson6469@comcast.net

PM me, please

I'm selling an original 380mm Momo Alpina steering wheel with hub. Also includes non-original horn button.

Please feel free to ask questions, and thanks for looking!

Alright, so I fixed the issue. Cleaned primary and secondary idle jets and tuned 'em. zinz I think you have a point, that the fuel treatment probably broke off some gunk that clogged the jets.

An update:

I took another look inside the barrels and the first one took a couple pumps to get a good constant squirt and the second one doesn't at all at WOT. Is there a way to clean the jets or should I replace the accelerator pump? I replaced the accelerator pump in the last year (because of a broken gasket there) and it looks fine.

Hi all,

Haven't posted in awhile, since most of my answers are found on these forums. Except this time, the current situation with my Weber 32/36 is unique.

I was driving back from a ~400-mile camping trip and 100 miles from home the car started to hesitate and jerk under acceleration, but when I pulled over the car idled just fine like it always does.

I was able to limp home and troubleshoot the issue but nothing unusual presented itself. I replaced spark plugs which looked toasted. I tested the mechanical fuel pump which squirted just fine. I checked for squirts from the accelerator pump--that was fine. Sprayed carb cleaner around the bay to check for vacuum leaks--nothing. The dist cap is fairly new as well as the wires.

One side note: I was forced to fill up with regular fuel (89) in the "middle of nowhere" since they were waiting on delivery of supreme (93) about 200 miles before any of these problems. To compensate for the difference in octane rating I dumped some generic fuel treatment in (doesn't Lucas and Techron contain octane?). Maybe I screwed myself over with this combination.

Does anyone have any other suggestions on what to look for?

I thank you all dearly!

Anyone out there have one??

Alright, have it blocked off now and its running like before. However, I'm going to have to slowly retune some things I messed around with before I actually fixed it. ARGH!

Here is a pic of the nipple in question:

Alright guys--I plugged this mysterious "nipple" thingy with a rag and then it idled just fine. So...problem solved for now. I don't see any loose hoses that would have attached to this. I assume this tube was capped off with something that fell off.

So I have continued to spray carb cleaner around the carb/intake manifold while on the fast idle and I've found that spraying around an un-capped-off metal "hose" on the driver side of the intake manifold just at the base of the carb raises the idle speed substantially. I'm currently waiting for the choke coil to cool off so I can start it again and have it idle. I will then plug said metal hose and see if that changes anything. 

Does anyone know what this metal hose is? I will take pics of what I'm talking about when I go back out there.

Thanks for the advice! I do not however have an electric idle solenoid equipped on my carb.

I will also try blowing compressed air through the idle jet drillings--hadn't thought of that!

So my 02 has been running the 32/36 (electric choke) with no troubles at all since I bought the car--cold starts start right up and idle well at both fast idle and then runs smoothly at normal idle.

Then this morning I engage the electric choke as usual, and it idles fine on the fast idle cam at ~3000rpms, but as soon as I hit the pedal again it instantly dies.

I was able to hold the gas at stops so that I could get the engine warm, and the problem still prevails. It simply goes straight to 0 rpms as soon as I take my foot off the gas.

I have checked both the primary and secondary idle jets and they were both completely fine. I do not suspect vacuum leaks as I sprayed gumout around the carb and no changes (higher rpms or hesitation) occurred, though I was only able to do this on the fast idle and the problem is at regular idle. 

Pretty stumped as I have not had any such trouble in the past, and it seems that in the 12 hours or so that it has been parked overnight it has developed this problem.

Any ideas would be appreciated but I will be troubleshooting until I get to the bottom of this...

I finally have an update! So I did the "Y-ground" for my cluster (and gave the whole pod a good cleaning while I was at it) and now the readings are much lower--only going up to about 55% when the fan clicks on. And this fix has been tested in stop and go LA traffic this week so poor grounds were def the culprit.

Thanks again for all the help over here!

Thanks jrhone!

I have an e21 radiator installed so I don't know if the stock fan fits. Also, those are some very good points that you've made. Everything is getting its temp reading from someplace else so its hard to say where I'm at until I look into those items. I still have yet to take an actual reading/go through the gauge cluster grounds. I will report back ASAP!

Again, thanks to everyone for the massive help!

Mine is located in the radiator, but I cannot discern a temperature range from it as it has no markings.

Hi everyone!

I'm looking for a rust-free passenger side front fender. Possibly a driver side as well if available.

My phone is 424-241-8558.

Thank you!

Location: Southern California

Thanks to everyone for the excellent replies! My coolant level was fine--not completely topped off (which I did today) but certainly not low. It would seem then that the thermostat controlling the fan is allowing it to turn on late.

However, as has been pointed out, I may need to check the gauge ground(s). When any of the turn signals are flashing, the temp needle bounces ever so slightly. With the headlights toggled on, it rises slightly as well. It may be that the car is cooling off at adequate temperatures but the temp needle is just not accurate due to poor grounding.

I think I'll have to use an IR thermometer and see what my actual temps are next.

Hey all!

Driving around lately in this L.A. weather has been taking its toll on my poor 02's cooling system. I have an electric fan kit installed right now by one of the previous owners, but it seems to only want to come on once my coolant temp is at around 75-80% and turns off when its still around 65%. These percentages usually happen on days like today where it was near 90 deg. out. Obviously, the ideal set up would trigger the fan at much lower temps.

Might I have a problem with the fan's relay or thermostat? Any ideas? If i'm leaving out anything let me know!

Thanks!

Okay so after work today I figured I might as well break into the switch itself. There I found that the internal plastic piece was askew and after I placed it back and glued the thing shut both signals work! Pretty stoked but I still have to take a look at the whole hazard light thing. Thanks to '76MintGrun for the links on that!

Again, thanks for all the input from you guys. 

One thing I noticed today was when I hold the right hand signal down, the hazard button flashes in unison with the dash/outside flashers. Incidentally, my hazards don't work. Any clues from this behavior?

I have a couple switches.  They are an 'earlier' style, but I am not sure what years they'll fit.  Can you read the numbers on the one you have?  I might have the one you need... assuming the switch is the problem.

 

Mine has the part # 1355 283 8157 62

I appreciate all the help! Sounds like I should definitely consider the flasher relay upgrade. I'm going to take a look at everything again today and report back.

Thanks for all the input!

TS stalk most likely has a broken wire - or one that is barely connected to the contact. The wires terminate at the back of the switch and are constantly being moved up and down.   Simply remove the switch/stalk assembly from the steering column, turn it over and closely examine the wires.   I had to re-solder two wires on my 73 switch.

 

Edit - added picture of the switch wiring

I already have my turn signal switch removed, and no wires seem to be broken on the back. I guess resoldering wouldn't hurt in case some have corroded over time?

Hi all!

I have a 1973 with a little problem in the turn signal stalk unit. The unit flashes left just fine but when I click it down for the right flashers nothing happens unless I apply extra downward pressure or pull the lever towards me. I should add that the arm stays in both positions, it just won't signal in the right position.

Tonight I took apart the whole steering surround and got to the unit itself. I sprayed inside with compressed air and a small amount of contact cleaner but sadly this did not remedy the problem. Is there any possibility of prying the unit apart and fixing it or is it more effective to just find a new turn signal/wiper stalk assembly and resolder?

Thanks in advance for any suggestions