ck_74tii

AIs that a tii? I cant read ur badge on phone but square lights. Did 2002 have square lights?

sweet ride and price

I plan to be there. Looking forward to meeting up with houston 02 owners. Thanks for organizing.

Cheenu

PS. I suggest we kee post meeting updates here. It seems to work and site promotes 02's. Besides I dont use FB.

Carl - u suggest I tinker with idle screw outside of can first or with CO screw on inside. I am thinking u meant the outer screw but thought I check.

My guess is that the low idle is due to removal of vaccum line to valve on air filter.

Byas - I will check out the narrow tube vacuum over weekend.

If I were to remove throttle body can I mark the location of rod from tuna can to rotation post and reinstall it. Are there any other things to worry about. I.was thinking of.cleaning TB when I.install crankcase breather hose.

cheenu

can i simply undo the bolt on the tension adjust c-shaped arm, push out alternator as far as possible and re-tighten it wihtout messign around with the alternator mountign bolts? Any suggestions as to how to pussh out alternator to get proper tension? Thanks.

Cheenu

I have riden it for over a week and this is how she consistently behaves. idles at ~1600 rpm when cold after starting, eventually when the car warm up the idle holds at 1100 rpm. Interestingly there is a transition phase in between runnign at 1600 rpm and 1100 rpm that lasts for about 2 min where the idle goes down very low to 400 rpm or so, i tap on the throttle to keep it going lest I stall.

Does this behavior give some clue as to whats happening? I would liek to adjust the idel screw to lower rpm but do not want to try untill i have an idea of whats going on.

BTW I have replaced all the vacuum lines. I have the hose comming from the front of the manifold (that goes into the valve on top of air filter) plugged. I have ordered a new crankshaft breather hose and plan to soak the valve in cleaner. Has anyone tried removing the nut on it?

Carl - I noticed there is one section of on one of the hard plastic tubes that have gone thin, I will post pictures when I get to work on it over the weekend.

I have riden it now for a couple of days and the car seems to hold 1100 rpm at normal operating temperature; though it seems to go to very low rpm at idle when cold. I am goign to ride it like this for a week to see it it holds.

Byas - with regards to the comment on the vaccum valve on top pf the air filte housing; how do i check if the small inlet is holding vaccum and again how do i check if the distributor can is holding vacuum? Also, do you thinking soaking it in gasoline will help clear some of the debris and respray with teflen? Is there a mwthod to apply a vaccum guage to the valve to verify functionality?

Carl - thansk for the pointer on fuel filter and meshes. the one in the engine bay looks respectable. The one line that I see is old and needs replacing is the one that feeds the fuel filter. I still have the hard plastic tubes from the KF pump to the injectors - are these worth replacing or should i leave them alone considerign things are fairly stable now with my engine.

Jgerock - wow that is one clean lookign throtle body. i am envious. I was not brave enough to remove mine least i throw out the injector/idle setting. why in the manifold and throttle body so full of deposits on the tii. I assume they did not have PCV vales back then. They should help right?

Chenu

Thanks for all the posts on these topics. Here is what I did over the weekend and the outcome.

I replaced all of the vaccum lines, including the large size vacuum line from the brake booster and the large (but different) size vacuum line from the front of the intake manifold to the valve on top of the air filter housing. I even retrieve the cracked breather hose (left-right) from the top of crank case to the air filter housing, fixed the crack and plugged in the small hose stemming from the throttle body (per Carl's recommendation). I pulled out the valve on top of the air filter housing, cleaned it with carb cleaner, and sprayed some teflon lubricant on the spring (per Byan's recommendation). I was not sure about just spraying away carb cleaner inside the throttle and into the intake manifold. Therefore, I cleaned the throttle body while it was attached with cloth dipped in carb cleaner.

After I put it all back, I started the car and after some initial roughness it settled back to a high rev at about 1800 rpm. I pulled hose form front of manifold into the valve on top of the air filter housing and felt it pull vacuum when I stuck my thumb and sealed it, the engine rev went back down, reattach it to the vbalve and it shot back up. So the valve is clearly letting air into the manifold.

I plugged the hose from the front of the manifold and the rear of the valve. The car started after that and this morning and seems to run fairly smoothly after warm up (felt the car was going to die out in idle when cold). It is running at 1100 rpm now - not too bad I think.

Is there anything else i can do to evive the valve on top of the air filter housing.

What are my next step, if any, or shoudl I be pleased ith it now. I have pleantly of othjer things to tackle susch as screeming belts (at 3500 rpm) and fuel filter and wire mesh clean up.

Is there a good link on how best to clean the wire meshes. I want to overhaul the fuel lines next.  

Thanks again - Cheenu

pulled out the old vaccum hoses today and got new replacements. I plan to replace them all tomorrow. I noticed there is a lot of  black residue in throttle body past the butterfly. can i simply pry it open and wipe it off with brake cleaner or do you recomment i take out the throttel body. I woudl prefer not to mess with the setting of the throttle bosy in case I do not do it correctly.

I am a new 74tii owner - what is the best method to use while starting it first thing in the morning?

prime the pumps for 10 sec then do you pump gas pedal as you crank? or crank without pumping?

any help is appreciated. I get mine to start but have not yet developed a reliable system.

Thanks in advance.

Carl - thats a great pic exactly what i wanted to see. I will get that larger left-right 'breather' hose and connect it. See if that helps. Do you know if I need to replace the gaskets on the intake manifold if i remove pipe #3 and maybe #4 (as shown in the pic) or can i safely use the already installed manifold gasket?

Byas - Thanks so much for clarifyign whats going on wuth the vacuum lines and the valve. I will certainly try your suggestion of lubricating the valve above air filter. There is a large diameter vaccum line from the rear of the manifold that has another valve on it and then it continues to a cylindrical unit below the air filter. can you enlighten what thats all about

I am thinking of replacing all the vaccum lines. What are the two different vaccum line hose diameters? Can I simply get the vaccum lines at local parts store? (the large ones on my still has cloth around it - i assume it is original).

Thanks again so much.

Cheenu

Bnam - I plugged the larger hose the goes from the front to the manifold when the engine was at high idle and viola it returned back to normal. I (quickly) plugged it back to the valve, tapped on the gas and the engine went back to high rev. plug the larger hose and it went back down. I woudl like to replace that valve rather then completely bypass it. At this point I do not know its function and suspect bypassign it altogether might cause more isses. My 2002 manual is still not delivered. Any thoughts?

OriginalOwner - I noticed that the vaccum hose form the rear of the throttel body was just dangleling freely not connected to anything yet.The original larger-diameter rubber hose which connects left-right from the top rear end of the valve cover over to the air filter housing has a hoel to insert the above mentioned vaccum hose. Apparently I am running without this vacuum feedback. Do you think it is worth getting the original pipe (11151252665 fom AutohausAZ) where there exists a hole to attach the vaccum line form rear of throttle?

I checked and the car does screech when it is at rest at around 4k rpm. Today it got relatively cold in Houston (below 32 F) and the screeching started at 3500 rpm. From your feedback I am leaning towards the fan belt as being the culprit.I will adjust the tension and de-glaze the pulleys. 

Just picked up my 74tii a week ago and drove it home. Over this weekend when i dorve the car I noticed that the engine screeches at ~ 4000 rpm. This is independent of the gear I am in. The previous owner has a shop receipt that says the timing belt and water pumps were replaced in July 2013. I do not recall this scrrech sound when I drove the car last weekend. Can it be the belts? Should I try belt dressing? 

Is there an article descriing the different belts on the tii?

After careful monitoring og my idle here is what i found. the idle is not always high. It was ~900 rpm at te beginning of the drive, then it woudl stay at 1500 rpm when i hit a light, i blipped the throttel, the engine would rev and drop back down to 900 rpm sometime but more often than not it was at 1500 rpm.

OriginalOwner - I noticed that the hose form the rear of the throttel body was just dangleling freely not connected to anything yet.

Bnam - how do i know if the valve is open or closed- wjhat is th epurpose of that valvle attached to the air filter housing.

Thanks for the informative reply. I will spend some time checking out your suggestions and report back. Cheers.

I am a newbie with 74tii. I am interested in meeting up in Houston. Please send info on next meetup to cheenu325@gmail.com. Thanks.

Newbiw here. I have recently purchased a 1974tii. It seems to have a high idle speed at normal operating temperature. The rubber connector from air filter to throttle housign has a hole in it but idle did not change when I covered it with my finger. Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance.