oldskoolvws

Hey all,

Out in the Livermore area, got a few BMW's hehehe. Have had my 74 sitting in my driveway for at lest 8 years now under the car cover. Top end of the M10 is taken off and the motor is essentially trash. Stock 4-speed. I have a E30 M10 rebuild without a head, zero miles, but have like 3 or 4 heads - all need a some type of rebuild. I need motivation to get this back on the road as a resto-mod, so I need some help and guidance. The goal of the build is reliability (for wife) and ultimately bringing back or improving the creature comforts, HVAC, brakes, etc. But reliability is top. Then would be power - enough to keep up with the the daily grind and open ups but not win any races, just keep up or at least see tail lights lol. Still trying to see what I'll do about the HVAC brackets too.

First question - Keep the M10 and 4-speed, although from the E30 or move to a different platform? I have all probably 90% - 95% of the parts, just need a guru to evaluate, finalize and figure out what next steps are and bring it together. This includes new 38/38 weber and manifold, electronics, etc. Who can do this?

Second question - Should I swap the engine to something else more current and if so to what platform for the reliability goal I am seeking and also, is there a specialist to do the work here in the bay area reliably? I'm assuming if I go this road, I should swap or may be the only option to a 5-speed but am open to it. Maybe a S55?.....I jest.

I do have a budget in mind for this build and it is funded, I just need some help figuring out my next steps. Really want good quality work on either direction and hoping to get this on the road by end of year maybe. 

Appreciate an insights.

Pat

The best part is the car parts on the roof. That's so my house.

Win.

Well, got a little done this weekend.

First out with this...yuck. One splice and a few connector replacements but otherwise good shape. Might clean it.

Back of fuse box and the two wires that need pulling. According to directions, these were replaced. The only replacement difference is that the green and white was moved over to be on the load side and not the line side.

Making my wires. This will become the green and white. EDIT: Think I'm going to redo the coil side to be stud mount. Much better method...back out it comes, at least one side.

Getting there. A few more wires to make. Going to custom make the battery cables too. And work on actually trying to get it to start. Anyone know what thread size that big hole is right there?

Yup, the tan bundle is all emissions related and only appeared on US cars (most cars had a blue bundle but some '74s had a tan bundle, mine did, I am guessing that your VIN is close to mine) but that entire thing can be replaced with a couple wires.  If you have swapped out to a blue coil (or red) then you don't even need the resistor wire since those coils do not require it, a regular piece of wire will work.

 

When you remove the emissions harness, make note of where you unplug it from the back of the fusebox and plug the wire to the coil there, then plug a second wire onto the fused side of fuse 11 I believe and run that to your choke and solenoid, you can do that with a single wire with 2 ends on it (use a green wire so it is obvious that it is switched power to all who come after you)

 

If I don't make any sense, lemme know, I can send pictures of what I removed and pictures of what it looks like now.

 

Edit: here is a link to someone who documented their desmog http://1leadshoe.blogspot.com/2011/02/smog-harness-removal.html also you can do a search on "desmog" on this forum and you will find lots of info.

I'm following this.....I hope it's right...but I'll verify :-)

According to wiring...yes.

Thanks. Going out today in the garage. Will update more after. Is this also correct...black / red from coil to starter solenoid?

When it comes to cars, ROI should be Ruined Optional Investments. All them mods, options and fun stuff is only worth what someone is willing to pay.

I've done this conversion a couple of times, so hopefully I can shed some light.

 

The electric choke on the Weber 38/38 is looking for a 12V switched source, so it stays on while the key is on.  You can use the feed off the emissions harness or another 12V switched source if you are removing the emissions harness.

 

My cannon manifold actually had a water jacket below the carb to help warm-up.  Water would run from the water pump, through the manifold and out to the heater.  If you don't have this feature, you will need to run a bypass pipe (320i part) to connect the water pump to the heater, (see picture).

 

I can't comment on the air sensor, because I didn't see it in the photo, and I don't have one on my car.  What exactly is it sensing, and what does it do with the information?

 

The connector on your original carb is most likely the idle jet cutoff solenoid.  This is also a switched 12V source like the choke and prevents the car from running on after the key is off.  Your 38/38 may not have this solenoid switch, so just tape the power source connector so it doesn't ground or remove the whole emissions harness.

 

You will need a new throttle linkage for the 38/38 over the 36/32, because the 38/38 turns in the opposite direction.  Order one from Ireland Engineering.

 

The 38/38 may not be jetted correctly for your car, if you haven't already done so, you can get a Weber jetting kit off of eBay.

 

I hope this is helpful, good luck.

 

Mark92131

I have a new idle solenoid valve on order for the 38/38 to prevent dieseling. That's not it in my picture. I still can't figure out what that is but I haven't really looked either.

The cannon manifold has provisions for attaching the earlier 2002 bottom plate of a manifold and running the coolant through it. I'm thinking about doing the bypass conversion because as far as I can tell, the coolant in the manifold is an emissions thing.

I'll get pictures of the air sensor. Very weird, but I have a theory.

If you are desmogging your car (and since you are going to a 38/38 DGES I will assume you are) all of the wires sheathed in tan vinyl can be removed as a single unit, you can take the resistor wire out of the bundle and run that to the coil and run a new wire from a switched source to your choke.  all of the air sensors that plug into that bundle are part of your smog emissions system and are no longer needed, just remove them and toss them into C.D.'s neighbors pool with all the vacuum switches, relays, etc..

 

It looks from the picture that your EGR hose was cut, you will want to cap that off as well, you can do that with a brass cap from Home Depot right on the exhaust manifold or weld it shut.

 

Also, if your car has the original distributor, then it is a vacuum retard unit so for the meantime you will want to not hook up the vacuum to it (or else it will run like crap), that dizzy does have a bunch of mechanical advance and while not optimal it does run pretty well without the vacuum.  I actually thought it ran a little better than with the TII dizzy on my car (though a true vacuum advance from an earlier car is really the best way to go in my opinion).

I'm intrigued by that first paragraph. I'm going to read it over and over then nuke it out to see if that's what I want to do. Any links on that?

The EGR was cut....soon to be removed....by replacing with a Stahl header.

Still pondering about the distributor. Will likely just cap for now.

Also thinking about converting to manual choke and just run direct but prefer not too as the wife drives it more than I. She's more of turn on key and drive.

Hi all,

Need some help, 1974 Base (04/74). Got the intake off the motor (what a pain) and am in the process of cleaning things up. All of the emissions stuff (magnetic solenoids, EGR, etc) disconnected by P.O. so removing that as well to clean up the bay. Changing out to Cannon manifold with 38/38, electric choke.

So question is, what is the standard practice for this conversion for the sensors and wires in relation to choke operation? I've searched and have not found anything related to it. I have not actually looked into anything in the service manual as of yet though. So far I have this:

HARNESS FROM ABOVE BRAKE BOOSTER TO MANIFOLD: (closest to firewall, going out)

black / red (SW RT) = Starter Solenoid

brown / black (BR SW) = Coolant Sensor bottom of intake manifold

green / white (GN WS) = Unsure. Pic below for reference, anyone know what it is?

green / blue (GN BL) = Choke

brown / black (BR SW) (2x) = Air Temperature

green / white (GR WS) = Idle Cut Off Solenoid

The biggest questions I have is will the choke still work? I've sourced the following and will be installing soon or do I just leave disconnected:

- Bypass neck with dual ports - relocate coolant sensor from below the manifold to right next to the one shown in the pic (upper left).

- Thinking of relocating the air sensor to the starter bracket (hole that bolted to manifold, drill and retap, left side of starter in pic).

- 10x1.5 plug for block, passage from carb to block (mid right in pic).

- What is switch in picture on carb? Not sure how to resolve.

- Waiting for manifold off ebay that has lower cover to add to Cannon manifold.

- Going to source Tii distributor to eliminate vacuum.

Am I on the right track or lost as hell?

Thanks.

Pat

http://www.bmw2002faq.com/_/technical-articles/engine-and-drivetrain/weber-downdraft-carburetor-installation-guide-r35

Also want. In for one when ready please.

When grinding the interior or exterior, I use painters paper for protection. I cut and tape it up with painters tape and gently mist it with water from a sprayer. It will absorb the water and usually puts out the sparks intantly on contact. It works great and is easy to work with.

Obviously have an extinguisher handy in case you fail.

Recieved my bracket from Dave. Haven't installed it yet, but craftsmanship ::thumbsup::

Gonna get it painted and installed.

Well then, possible the PO had the lugs go loose in motion or dropped the car to the ground on the wheels fast with no lugs....theorizing of course

Well no BMW 2002 professional here but I am familiar with the products:

- The Spacers: remove, insert into trash. The studs have been compromised. Or press in new studs.

     ++ If you want to keep the spacers, use loktite red, torque to specs. Drive for a few days or about 20 - 35 miles. Retorque. Check torque every six months.

- The struts / springs: Curious to know if this was an H&R cup kit. If it was, shame on whom ever did that to them. Not sure though because those are sport springs, I think the cup used race or custom weighted springs. I just looked at H & R's site, their kits are not threaded. You'll need to do some research to see what you working with. Numbers or stickers help.

     ++ Depending on quality of shock, you may be able to disassemble and have any competent machine shop remove and replace the grooves.

- The bolts: This is typical. Those are your ball joints. Not sure on 2002 specs but many have bolts or studs on the ball joint. This is okay unless the ball joint is worn.

- The green slime: This is the byproduct of either a broken ball joint seal or of it oozing out of the joint points. Either calls for replacement.

- Bent tie-rod: It may or not be, again no 2002 pro. However a vehicle can still be aligned with a bent tie rod as long as it is not to drastic. With that angle of the picture, I would call it good.

- The wheels: By your pictures, it looks like the wheels are what is called shank or mag type. This means the lugs actually go inside the inside diameter of the wheel to hold it in place. I'm guessing the lug nuts you have are acorn or conical meaning they do not go into the wheel. The results is what your picture idicates, the wheel spins under hard braking or acceleration within the diameter of the machined holes of the wheels less the studs. VERY DANGEROUS.

- Brake adjusters: Should be thouroughly cleaned or replaced and protected with a rubber boot cover.

The wheels definately need to be addressed. The absolute best case scenario would be to remove the spacer and re-install the wheel with the correct lugs if they are not too worn.

OSVW

In please.

All fasteners are designed with minimal and maximum tolerances to their mating surfaces with regards to application and torque, especially in the automotive and airplane industies. Plating absolutely could have an effect on the fastener especially if it was a close tolerance fastener to begin with.

Mine's a 74 and I've had it for a week

i have sent an e-mail.

Unfortunately, they cancelled my order. Still lookign. Anyone else? PLEASE...IN NEED!!!

I purchased this car because of the PO status and the restoration that has already been completed. I was looking sepecifically for an "untuned" resto-mod car for my wife. Everything here in California that I've been looking at did not fit the bill for what I wanted. Yes usually it's the other way around but this car is actually form the salt free south, and got transplanted to New York about 5 years ago for resto.

It still needs work, but most of the hard part is done.

Hello,

 

Please see the attached part number: 82110418998

 

I believe dealers can special order them for you. I recently purchased one from GETBMWPARTS.com for about $12.80 plus shipping .

 

Good luck hunting!

AWESOME! THANKS!!!!

I've seen Superiors work. Top notch, not sure of pricing. I'll need the same for the set of E21 IS seats I have.

Looks like serious fun. I'm hoping to get to the next one.

Hi everyone, very new here, as in first post.

I just bought my wife a 1974 base from New York, being shipped to California. It's a present for her birthday and I don't think it will be here in time.

I'm looking for the 2002 commemorative keychain to augment her present until it arrives.

Obviously needs to be in near new / NOS condition. Cash in hand / Paypal / Square / Other.

Let me know please. Help make May 29th very special.

Thanks.

OSVW