dwilme

Not going duals due to price and I´ve read you´ve sort of got to choke them for a stock engine - if you don´t to do cam and pistons they´re overkill. On the other hand you can make a 38 work on a 160hp engine, so I´m not painting myself into a corner either. Just not getting that nice sound..

I hear ya, please post the set up you use and a few pics when you do the 38/38. Then again, who can argue with more power right? I've been weighing the 38/38 vs dual 40 set up for a while. You're right, the price is high for the dual set up. 

Does anyone have a parts list or set up instructions for the 38/38 and Dual 40 DCOE?

I have the 32/36 on my 74 and rebuilt with the "plastic" floats. I bought the rebuild kit from pierce manifolds. They have some tuning info.   

When did you last check the brass float? Mine was running really rich because one of the pontoons was taking on gas and sinking. 

After I replaced the float and rebuilt it I was running rich but tinkered and adjusted with the engine really warm and it screams now at base settings, 1.5 turns out. I don't know my jet sizes (I'm a newbie) I remember seeing 160/170 on the air correctors so I assume all is stock based on the below. Also, I measured float with the plate on it's side (float dangling down) from plate base to top of the float at 41, I think plastic said 35 though. 

The book I have says the standard jetting for weber 32/36 DGAV are as follows:

- Main Venturi: 26/27

- Aux Venturi: 3.5/3.5

- Main Jet: 140/140

- Em Tube: F50/F50

- Air Corrector Jet: 170/160

- Idle Jet: 60/50

- Pump Jet: 50

- Float Valve: 2.0

This site helped me rebuild the carb and may be valuable. 

http://www.mk3supra.org/topic/561-guide-rebuilding-a-weber-3236-dgav-carb/

p.s I hear the 38/38 is really nice while still using the stock manifold (with some cutting), but why not just go all out and do dual 40's! 

Cheers! 

Thanks again for more feedback. I'm picking up the carb rebuild today. I posted a few pics of my set up if you're intrested. I think it's just the stock manifold. Maybe a header, intake, and cam next year

You can see the leakage (carb base, note color of leakage) and the makeshift plate I've been talking about(can't see bottom but that is where the green fluid was).

The rotor is dusty and some signs of wear I think. Is this standard points and condenser?

The cap is worn at the top of the connections. Weird right?

Let me know what you think.

I'm planning on getting new plugs with the carb rebuild kit and maybe a rotor. Do you know where I should start in trouble shooting the ignition?

The inside if the distributer, under the cap, looked really dusty. I couldn't tell if it has pertronix, don't know what I'm looking for. If its a points and confessor then they are really dirty.

Baller Robs Ben, 

I'm amazed! Thank you. I'm going to order the kit and plate. The link to the 32/36 rebuild is super detailed. I feel really good about rebuilding the carb now. I'll post my progress. Taking the car out tonight was great but some missing and one backfire under acceleration while cold. I gotta get at that carb and plugs. 

Thanks again. Glad I joined the group. 

Hi All,

I just bought a 1974 02 with weber dgv carb (32/36) with water choke -dgav. It starts great when cold with a quick double tap of the accelerator.

However, after it runs for 10mins or so it doesn't want to start without some trickery (3-5secs cranking with no gas pedal movement, then with 1/3-1/2 pedal depression it starts). Even that isn't predictable.

When I look in the carb it's full of gas. Frequently after driving it has a strong smell of gas. The carb looks pretty dirty and seems to have soaked lower gasket and some leakage around the throttle linkage. I have relocated the fuel hoses (off intake manifold) as I figured the fuel was getting too hot.

- Is the rebuild pretty easy using part #93323705? Anyone have a video or pic of the step by step?

- Which jets can I clean with the carb still hooked up as normal? 

- There isn't a spacer between the manifold and carb (should it have one?)

- There is also some coolant around the plate (end cap) on the intake manifold directly below the carb base plate. What's behind that plate? Is coolant going to gush out if I remove it? Where do I get a proper replacement, it looks like most guys just make a cover out of scrap metal.  

- If I need a fuel pressure regulator, what's the best location for it and are there any you can recommend?

- I've also heard that I should just get an electric choke and fuel pump. Thoughts?

I just want this to predictably fire up whether hot or cold. Thanks for all your help and sorry if the above is wordy, I have limited experience with carbs.

Thanks! I'll download the pdf and see where it takes me. Are there any special tools needed for this job?

I think I'll start another topic for DGAV carb rebuild. I'm having hot start issues and I think it's the choke and old leaky seals. It floods often.

Hi All,

I'm new to 02's and this forum. I'm hoping you can help me with a suspension question I have. 

1. Is there a post for replacing the front strut inserts? I have a 1974 and was told the damping was completely gone. It's bouncy and when jacked up to change the oil the springs sit freely on the strut spring seat. What keeps the insert in the tube? I have a haynes manual but it's not detailed for this process. I was told there are bilsteins in there and I can see it has H&R lowering springs. Is it an easy process to replace the inserts? Any common parts to buy in addition to the inserts (bushings, etc). The front end feels solid but lots of rattles and over a speed bump you can feel the car pop up. 

2. How do I create a new post for the 1st question?

Cheers,

Doug