PowerJoe457

I am unplugging the wire running from the center of the coil running from the cap and grounding it and getting no spark but I am getting spark from the coil when I do the opposite. PS... the car turns over but will not run. that might be helpful. my injector in the primary is spraying fuel, so fuel delivery is not the issue.

Well that's a problem. What you just did was cut off the spark supply to the rest of the ignition system and of course you're not going to get spark from that end of the wire because the distributor doesn't produce spark. (It's called a distributor for a reason)

You're still getting spark. It's just all contained in the coil's middle terminal. (Which is NOT good for it. Tip: if you want to disable the ignition system to prevent the car from starting, ground the center lead or disconnect the wire going to the negative terminal of the coil.)

If you're getting spark when you disconnect the middle wire on the distributor leading to the coil and ground it (assuming you have a spark tester in place. Or just put the wire close but not touching ground you'll get spark if it's working) then the coil side of the system is fine.

From what you told me, just connect the wire and see if the car starts. If it doesn't and you're confident that the field delivery is fine. then the problem is either in the dizzy(distributor), plugs, or plug wires.

(Messed up here. Doing this from my smart phone, which has now been demoted to a dumb phone...or maybe I'm the one who's dumb)

Hey guys! I'm new to the forum and new to the 2002 world. I am having problems with spark. I am getting spark from the coil, so I know that it is still good but when I disconnect the wire from the coil and ground it I don't get spark from the distributor.

Hold on a minute! let me get the facts straight! What wire from the coil are you disconnecting and grounding? 

I pray it's not the positive wire to the coil you're grounding or your car might be in flames the next time you turn on the ignition.

I know this might sound noobish but the threads to the oil pressure switch are metric and I cannot find a threaded hose in my area that has metric threads.

As the reason I was posting this is because I tried the non metric threads into the oil switch threads, tightened it down all the way and it worked. But for those advanced mechanics who know how well aluminum threads hold up when not treated properly, I ended up striping the threads.

I live near Seattle. Does anyone know a solution to this problem?

like anyone know where I can get a M10 x1mm hose thread connector to imperial (whatever common size works) converter for that?

I

I just did it last night myself, works great! I do have a word of advice though. I chose a nail size as a temp replacement that was just a "tad" longer than the span it needed to pass thought. I dulled the end of the nail, but when I did I made it a "tad" shorter than the span I needed. As a result the nail didn't quite make it to the other side. It was well within the last number wheel, though. Because it didn't go through all the way any motion laterally disengages the positioning gears (the grey ones you see in the pictures above) from the number gears and the numbers can shift a bit resulting in them being off center on display when you replace the original shaft. Be careful if you do this to make sure the temporary shaft passes all the way through, this will maintain the original position of the numbers. I was able to coax them back into place, but I spent 2 hours correcting this simple mistake to get it to read correctly. Learn from my mistake if you are going to do this very effective and otherwise easy repair. Also, you really do't need to make much of a punch in the shaft. I was surprised at how sensitive it is to these divots and had to sand them down a bit. But hey, now I'm rolling with the odometer working, awesome!

I just did this today as well. though unlike you guys I just ended up taking the whole thing apart until I realized the problem was that lead gear. 

I find that slightly clamping the shiny part of the shaft with a vice works better then punching it.