diathermic

Replied to your PM Artboakrill... somehow I missed the alert to your PM

I lowered the price and edited post to reflect the change.  Thanks for looking!

Dropping the price.  You can have it all for $400!!  Selling as a complete lot only!

Bump!  I was out of country by the time I got a few replies but I'm finally back.  Parts are still for sale exactly as in original post.

Bump

Bump!

The last victim of my never-started M42 swap.  A NEW MS3 with MS3X.  These sell for $660 from DIYAutoTune.

$500 + shipping

For sale is my NEW

I bought this 2 years ago for $155 for an M42 swap I never started.

You can have it for $100 (+shipping if you can't pickup in SF Bay Area)

(lowered price!)

These are parts I bought extra from my '72 Tii suspension rebuild. 

As you can see in the picture they are all NEW unused parts.  To make my life simple, I would like to sell this all as a LOT at 40% off.  So if you are rebuilding your suspension and planning on doin' it right, this will save you well over $400. 

The exact items are listed below.  Total paid was $812.40  You can have it all for $380 (+$30 shipping if you can't pick up in SF Bay area)

You may think buying all of these bolts was silly, but I was sure happy I replaced all of my critical bolts with news ones when I did my rebuild.

Details:

Unsprung weight in the rear looks like 41lbs. This is likely not the total weight of the assembly, just what's hanging off the subframe. I disconnected the sway bar and just let the dust cover for the drum sit on the scale. Doh! Just realized I didn't weight the drum itself...ok, that was an extra 11.2 lbs.

Total unsprung weight by this measurement on each rear is 53lbs

(My wheels+tires were another 30lbs, yikes)

I'm in too for sunday!

My plan was to do a simple task of repacking my bearings with grease this morning until I broke the lug nut off!

Now what?  Any help is greatly appreciated.

Also it seems like the shoulder of the lug nuts are corroding to the alloy wheels (see pic below).  Any suggestions on preventing this?

It's just way too cool!  Who owns it?  Is it by any chance going to be at the Rolex thing at Laguna Seca this weekend?

http://cdn.speedhunters.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/08/Oldtimer_Grand_Prix-031.jpg

I would like to retro-fit an A/C system in my '72 tii. Please let me know if you have one available. Preferably looking for an original BMW system.

I like TobyB's approach to tackling the possibility of a faulty flasher.  In my case, my green indicator 'B' wouldn't turn on despite the blinkers working well outside.   It turned out the contacts in the flasher relay where pretty well carbonized and it looked like there was a piece of debris holding the indicator light relay open (see picture, the contact is made between the vertical contact just left of the white plastic on the coil nearest to you, and the horizontal contact which goes back to the top terminal farthest from you in the picture)

I cleaned them by rubbing a little sand-paper between them, then adjusted the spacing between the contacts by bending the horizontal tab just a bit to ensure good operation (tested it with the cover off before reassembling, of course)

So here is a picture of how I did the deadening on the driver's side door (the same as passengers, really)
First, placed some RAAMmat on the outside skin (although I forgot the second piece on the drivers side door), then started applying Ensolite:

Then finally added the RAAMmat making sure it covers the door's holes

Overall, finishing the second door made the inside noticeably quieter though I was hoping for a larger dB change.  It went down from 90dB at 70mph (measured using an iPhone app) when only the passenger door was done and the drivers door was just metal to 87dB after finishing it.  Most of the noise seems to come from the passenger foot wells where the headers are rattling and wind noise.

Now I just need to see how long this holds up...

Another part that is good for some noise reduction is the "heat sheild" (should be called noise shield) that goes over the stock header (tii or stock).

 

Typically these are thrown out as they appear to be some hp robbing, evil looking emissions device. Which is not the case.

 

I put this back on my '74 tii and it made a BIG difference in cabin noise, especially on the highway.

Do you have a picture of this heat shield?  I had been curious about the noise effects of theses things and am glad to hear your have noticed a difference.  Most modern cars have lots of sheet metal shielding over their exhaust and I was wondering how much of it was for heat and how much was for noise.

Also curious as to the effects of wrapping exhausts with the heat wrap most folks use in Turbo set-ups.  I was thinking it would dampen sound a lot, but don't like the thought of these wraps making the headers heat up even more than they already do by preventing the headers from radiating their heat.

Ah yes, I forgot to mention it's a 4-speed, I've since corrected the post.

So I'm curious to know how loud or quiet your '02's can get when going down the road at 70mph.  I'm installing some sound deadening on my doors and realized I should actually try to measure the cabin as I do this install to know how much of a difference it makes.

I downloaded an App called "Decibel 10th" on my iPhone 5 to get at least a reasonable idea of how noisy it gets in the car.  The result, though not flattering is quite funny:

I think the Average Blender at 90dB is about the feeling I get from my car. 

It's a '72 tii with:

-4 speed tranny

-stahl headers,

-RAAMmat and Ensolite on the passenger door only (albeit installed in the wrong order as you can see here http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/139831-sound-deadening-on-door-panel-not-door/),

-nothing covering the driver's side door,

-Not much insulation but carpet and floor mats on the floor

-195/50R15's on the ground.

Anyone want to take me up on this? 

(I mentioned the phone I have and the App to try to get a good comparison.  Apparently that app is optimized for the mic on the iPhone 5 so it should be close to accurate)

I'll post an update when I get the other door done. 

By the way, I did this on relatively new asphalt.

** Update **

After putting in the insulation and reassembling the driver's side door the noise was in my mind noticeably decreased, but really only went down by 3dB.  Well at least this little App says it sounds like the Avg Automobile now...

     Marhsall is right, the RAAMmat should go on the door first, THEN the ensolite.  However, I disagree that reversing the order nullifies the dampening effect.  If you don't mind me getting a little nerdy, I'm pretty sure that in theory it doesn't matter what order you put these in with regards to each other.  Any difference would be minor not major.

     Why?  Well I can't wrap my head around the mechanical problem as easily as I can do it with a simple R,L,C circuit.  You can model any spring/mass system with and RLC circuit including a dampened system with a driving force such as the door.  Take a look at the wikipedia page for the equivalent circuits:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Harmonic_oscillator#Equivalent_systems

     In these equivalent circuits, the driving force is the vibration on the door metal (obviously caused by a number of things), the position x, and velocity dx/dt relate to the output, in this case the final vibrating surface which will, in turn be creating the sound we hear in the cabin, usually the inside of the cardboard/vinyl door panel.

     To keep it simple, let's look at the series equivalent circuit.  In that circuit the driving force (vibrating door metal) is Voltage and the output position is charge, and more usefully the velocity is current (I).  The RAAMmat, if by itself would be one series connection of R (dampening), L (mass), and 1/C (springyness).  So this would be a system where you just have RAAMmat by itself, and the sheet metal from the door is vibrating it.  In order to add the ensolite, and the cardboard door panel, you need to add another R,L,andC in series for each one of these.  Still following?  I'll draw both circuits in crappy text drawings with their equivalents below:

Ground-----Voltage source----R----L----C-------R-----L----C--------R----L----C-------------------------Ground

                      Door metal            RAAMmat            Ensolite           Carboard Door panel

Ground-----Voltage source----R----L----C-------R-----L----C--------R----L----C-------------------------Ground

                      Door metal            Ensolite             RAAMmat           Carboard Door panel

     Remember that the output, i.e. the sound vibration is actually the current running through the circuit, SO as you can see, the current would be the SAME in either one of these circuits.  i.e. the noise coming out of the door will be the same, regardless of the order you place your dampeners.

     Sure, there are non-idealities to the real-world senario, but I bet they aren't going to make more than a 10% difference in this case.  After all, the door metal, the ensolite, and the RAAMmat are all in good physical contact.  The cardboard door panel has a crappy mechanical contact, so I'm sure it would have sucked to put the RAAmat on the cardboard.  I'm just pretty sure that the way I did it with the ensolite first, is actually working great as far as sound deadening. 

     Will it last as long ?   I doubt it, the ensolite will peel off way before that RAAMmat goo ever looses it's tack.  But I'm hoping it will last long enough to get me to the next time I need to tear that door panel apart to get to something.

Yeah, I agree Marshall, well, at least I tried!  Here's what I did today:

-  I used the Ensolite peel and stick foam to line the entire door.  Fortunately the adhesive tape on it seems very sticky and was stretchy enough to conform to the door's shape quite well

-  I then placed the RAAMmat BXT on the Ensolite with the goey stuff facing the foam.  I didn't perfectly do the whole door but had about 80% of it covered and made sure it was well over all door panel openings.

I'm not sure how long the adhesive on the foam will be able to carry the weight of the heavy deadener, but I'm sure I'll be able to peel it all off clean when the time comes!

I really don't think this will be much worse than "doing it right" since I'm well coupled to the door in all places.  PLUS I have the added benefit that the Ensolite somes in a much wider format so I could cover the entire door with one single piece, making sure I have a good moisture barrier in place.  Well, that is asuming the adhesive will block moisture enough so that having the foam caught between that and the RAAMmat isn't going to cause a disaster.

I only got the passenger door done today before it got dark so I didn't give myself enough time take pictures but I'll make sure to post pics of the driver's side when I do it this week.

By the way, I didn't exactly remember what the order of the springs and washers was for the window crank and the little quarter window where.  Are the springs there to try to keep the door vinyl away from the knob and window crank, or should the springs be pushing the door panel towards the knobs?  I assumed the first, but I really don't remember.

I bought some RAAMmat sound deadener to quiet down my Tii's doors after having installed power locks, but I really, really don't like the though of having to peel that gooey stuff off the doors down the road. SO, I had the brilliant idea of applying the RAAMmat to the door panel inside-out, i.e.:

-I'll spray adhesive onto the Al foil and the inside of the door panel and stick the two together

-then apply Ensolite to the now exposed gooey side of the Raamat so that when I mount the door panel to the door the ensolite will form itself to the door

-then mount the now heavy door panel to the door (which will still have it's plastic moisture barrier on it).

Has anyone tried this before?  Am I pushing the limits on weight for the door panel?  Will I dramatically reduce the effectiveness of the sound deadener?

Beautiful '02 Grigio! I'm sorry to hear you got no credit for those CCW pictures. That definitely deserves to be fixed! Do you have pictures of the car somewhere else on the internet? I'm really curious to see the interior!

Also, how did you source the S14 engine? Did you have to buy a donor M3 or just bought the engine.

Thanks for the awe inspiring work!

Great! Thanks a lot Larry. I'll plan on being there. Will msg you beforehand.

Cheers,

Alejandro

Cool! This sounds like a lot of fun. Is anyone willing to take on a straggler? I've been drooling over '02s for about a month and would love to participate but don't yet have a car.

Are there any other bay area events happening before Dec 15th?

Thanks!