classicman

Sent you an email Gary

So guys, some missing information for you:

I owned that car some years back when I lived in Port Elizabeth.  The photos shown earlier are in front of my house at the time.  When I got the car, it was pretty high spec with those Recaro's, dogleg 5 speed and LSD optioned as standard from new.  I tried to trace back the history of the car to see if it was possible an Alpina but hit a blank.

At the time I was restoring me Tii Alpina A4 clone.  The seats, gearbox and LSD are in my Tii Alpina.  I refitted the parts from my Tii into the Ti and sold it to a guy in Johannesburg called Jaco.  He restored the car and then on sold it.  About a year ago, I tried to buy the car back and reached a deal with the owner.  The only snag was that the papers had gone missing and while I was waiting on them to be re-issued, he sold the car to the guy who listed the car on this site.  The car has subsequently been flipped again.

Hindsight is a bitch - I should never have sold the car in the first place...........

I went back and read what McCartney had to say about cams and KFish injection. He describes the 300 cam as 'surprisingly good' in a tii noting that it was specified for ti carbed motors. He then goes on to describe a 'fully race' engine with slide throttles, a stock pump and a 316 cam making 200bhp. Not much detail is given as to how this is achieved though changes to the inlet path as well allow an increase in the amount of air that can be drawn in compared to the stock throttle and inlet. 

 

I guess it it depends upon how much compromise you are willing to accept along with any impacts on drivability for a road car. To be fair to McCartney he probably wasn't worrying too much about AF numbers but more what the seat of his pants were telling him. 

 

I have read several accounts of people trying to get 292 cams to work, who subsequently gave up and went back to a stock cam. I also think that Alpina actually made a cam of 270ish duration as about as far as they were willing to go with a stock pump.  

Hi Simeon. I have a 300deg cam in my Tii and am running a stock pump. I've dialled it in pretty close on my AFR, 13 on idle, 12-13 on WOT and 15-16 on partial throttle. Car runs well, although idle is a bit high at about 1,100 to 1,200 Rpm, but I can live with that. When things have settled a bit, I'm going to spend some time on a Dyno to see if I can make any improvements or not.

I seem to recall reading in Mike MaCartney's book that the 300deg cam is the only one that works in a Tii with a stock KF.  He also did say that it takes a lot of trial and error to get it dialled in.

We have some spare parts such as pictured to assist.  [emoji4]

 

We have also had a new bushing made in the past.  Sending a note to contact directly.

Please send me more details.

OP - don't be shy to ask Rob for tii-specific parts.  If your throttle body cam is well worn, closely inspect the coupling that secures that shaft to the lower vertical pivot.  Also check the tiny return spring inside the throttle body housing (tuna can).  A weak spring will cause running issues. 

 

You might still be able to purchase some of the factory tii linkage bits from BMW sources. 

Thanks. I've just replaced all of the other linkage rods, which is why I've checked this one as well. Who's Rob?

Hi Guys

The the shaft of the D Cam in the Tuna can on my 74tii is pretty badly worn. I've looked in Realoem, W&N and Rogerstii and can't find a part listing for this and the brass bush that goes with it. Any ideas on the part number and where I can source one?

Sold!

Has anyone dealt with him recently? I've been trying to get hold of him, but there is no response to my emails. Anyone know if he's still around or how to contact him?

Are you looking to buy or to sell?  I may have one available soon.

Hi Guys

I'm selling my Targa.  She is a very clean show car but not concourse.  I'd put her as a solid 8/10 and she drives exceptionally well.  Being LHD I'm selling her to the USA or Europe as Australia is RHD.  She comes with a factory fitted aircon which is extremely rare.  She is in Australia at the moment, but price includes shipping to a major port in the USA.  We will handle all of the shipping arrangements from this side.

Please click on the following link for more details and photos:

http://www.affordableclassics.com.au/classic-cars-for-sale?product_id=70

Price - US$25,000

Here is a link to my car if anyone is interested:

http://www.affordableclassics.com.au/classic-cars-for-sale?product_id=70

I must change my details, I've actually moved to Australia now. I'll pop you a mail, thanks.

Hi

I've got a really clean 74 Baur (LHD) in Fjord blue with factory aircon. I'm thinking of selling but am struggling to find reference to values. Any ideas on values? I'd say my car is an 8 out of 10 condition wise.

Hi Guys

I know I'm looking for the impossible, but anyone have a set they are willing to part with. I have a '74tii built to A4spec but am missing the last piece of the puzzle.

Thanks in advance.

I believe that BMW aren't planning to make any of these any time soon. Anyone got/know of a new bonnet that they would part with?

Mine was damaged in transit - the car transporter put my car facing backwards on the truck without latching the bonnet shut. You can imagine what happened........

Ok, so after further investigation, I have found that the cam that fits at the bottom of the KF pump (where you set with the 5mm rod for idle and full throttle conditions) had moved and thrown my settings out.  That also explains why I wasn't getting full throttle and the car felt like it wasn't coming onto the cam properly. I took the pump off the car and found that the splines on the cam were worn smooth.  I fitted a spare one and reset everything on the bench before putting the pump back in.  Got her idling fairly smoothly at 1,000 rpm and 13.0 on the AFR, so looking good.  Its been raining though, so I haven't been able to try her on the full throttle again, but I'm hoping I've solved the problem now.

I don't know why I didn't fit an AFR before, it makes science out of guesswork!

To get back to my original thread, I have finally fitted the AFR gauge to my car, and what a pleasure!!!! I was running hugely rich, and have had to take the verboten screw in by two full turns to make any form of difference.

The car is running much better now, but I have reached the end of the adjustment on my verboten screw and she is still running rich. At full bore acceleration thought the gears, the reading comes in at a shade over 13 before she comes onto the cam, the reading drops to about 12 when on the cam. From reading in previous threads, I am aiming to get to about 13.7 on the gauge, is this correct?

So how do I weaken the mixture further if I've run out of verboten screw? She starts easily and idles lumpily at about 1,000 rpm. I'm not entirely convinced that I am getting full power on the cam though.

Any thoughts?

I had a similar problem after my engine rebuild. Fitted a new pump at the time. Turns out the new pump had a massive spacer in behind the pressure relief valve. Took the spacer out and problem solved. Might be that replacement pumps may be for later E30/46 cars that may need a higher oil pressure?

Thanks for the info, and yes, it was my car in the UK BMWCar magazine.

I have ordered an AEM 30-5130 unit and will couple up and see what she looks like when I get it.

I have phoned Jaymic and spoken with Pete and their workshop manager.  They weren't too much help, so I'm going to try and get Mike's number.

Call me stubborn, but I'm going to keep on trying until I either get it right or die trying :-)

Thanks again for the responses guys.

I'm of the opinion that my car is overfueling rather than running lean.  When I set the COs at 4,000rpm in the garage using my Gunson, she starts to smoke - not black smoke.  The motor is new, so she is not using oil, but my thought was that if she is fluffing because she is overfueling (plugs are black as well, even after a longish run on the highway), and this is causing the fuel to wash the cylinders of excess oil.

The way I see it is that I have two options for now - rolling road Dyno or AFR gauge to start with.  Judging by the comments on all of the other threads I have read, the AFR is the way to go. I'd be too worried about causing damage on the Dyno without knowing what the car is actually doing.

I'll keep you posted once I have ordered and fitted the AFR.

Hmm, interesting reading guys, thank you.

One of the reasons I decided to go this route was to build an Alpina A4 Tribute car and I did the motor to the specs that I could trace - 300deg cam, 39mm exhaust valves, 10:1 compression ratio etc, among the other mods.  I have not been able to source nor afford a proper Alpina ITB setup, which is why I am running the stock pump and intake.  I did buy what was advertised as an Alpina pump, but was also not able to run that as my car is a '74 and the pump cam off a '71 car and is not compatible I believe.

Mike McCartney from Jaymic in the UK, also wrote in his restoration guide that the 300deg cam was the only modified cam that you could successfully run in a tii.  

So is this checkmate?

Checked fuel delivery back at the tank, and it is within spec.

I have already replaced the in line fuel filter. I checked the filter in the tank this morning and it was black, but didn't look blocked. I cleaned it anyway. I also cleaned the filter at the pump - it too didn't look that bad.

I'm not running ITBs, still the std injection setup. I am running a thermostat that is 5deg colder than std due to high South African temperatures in summer.

I pulled #1 plug and it is black and wet - definitely looks more rich than lean......

Btw - std mechanical advance distributor with a new kit in it.