nemwrks

Perform the helicoil repair,and I would say do all of them while you're in there.

If one is stripped ,the chances are that the others are compromised.

Why hack it when you can do it correctly.

Just my opinon.

Mark.

Sam,

Congratulations on your purchase.Jim is a nice guy,and I'm glad the car found It's way to an enthusiast.

This car deserves to be restored an kept original where possible.

Mark.

Nice.

Don't see many 700 coupes around any more.

Wow,my eyesight is going.too many late nights and not enough sleep.

3 children under the age of 3 will drain all your energy.

Nice work on this project.I particularly like the LSD write up.Very useful.

I also recently scored a Milwaukee cut off saw.Picked it up off the sidewalk,was put out for trash.Just needed a new switch.$39 later and all is well.Nice.

Keep up the good work.

That alternator looks like a non-tii unit.

The block of wood and clamp is stopping it from twisting out of alignment.

When you get the correct tii alternator-Bosch AL 40 X ,I would recommend also installing poly eurethane bushings to help minimise alignment issues when adjusting the belt tension.

You may have to modify the wiring to the alternator and regulator,depending on wether the replacement alternator is internally regulated or not.

Sometimes that metal cover on the CV joint will leak when the grease gets heated up. You may want to consider sealing it when you are all done if it does not look like it seals well.

I did not get mine sealed well and fought grease on the underside of the orange car until I took them off and sealed them with an RTV of some kind.

I agree with sealing the caps.

The genuine boot kits from BMW come with a small tube of Hylomar brand sealant for sealing the metal cap.At least they did when I installed some about 2 1/2 years ago when I was working at The Werk Shop.

That leaking grease does make a huge mess in a short space of time Bill ,doesn't it.

As far as the flywheel goes,it will depend on wether you flywheel is attached with six bolts or eight.You will also need to install a pilot bearing in the back of the crankshaft .

Glad you got the car back together and driving.

Best Regards,

Mark

Are you certain that you installed the distributor correctly?

Yes, I'm sure I got the distributor in correctly. I put it in with the flywheel mark showing, and the distributor orientation close to where I took it out. With my wife working the starter, I timed it at 5 deg BTDC with my dial advance timing light.

Actually, a vacuum leak sounds right to me. This all started with running rough at idle only. I looked for a vacuum leak and could not find one. Then the problem got worse quickly - like within a day. Then it would not start at all. The PO removed the EGR system, and I think I'll take a closer look at what he did to ensure all the vacuum ports in the intake manifold are plugged.

I just wanted to make sure that when you re-installed the distributor you had the engine at TDC firing for Cylinder#1 and not Cylinder#4.The mark on the flywheel will be seen at both these positions.As long as the engine was not rotated when the distributor was removed you should be in good shape.

Best regards.

Are you certain that you installed the distributor correctly?

Engine at top dead centre firing #1 cylinder.

Just a thought.

Does your distributor have a cast iron body?

The # you posted is for the old cast iron body distributor from an 1800 or very early small car.

Points 12 11 1 354 495

Condenser 12 11 1 354 497

I don't have my wiring schematics to hand,will check tomorrow.

Hope this helps.

Mark

Hello all,

This is my first post.

If you still have points in the distributor,let's not forget the possibility that the condensor could be failing.

Just a thought.

Seasons greetings to all.