delacruz7

Are these still available?

I am looking for a IE bolt on fiberglass Turbo Flare for the left front fender. This is going on our Lemons racer so it does not have to be pretty, just close to one piece. Actually, I would still be interested in a broken one if you have all the pieces.

See attached file to see what these normally look like.

Rudy

Had a bit of an accident and I need to replace a bent right rear trailing arm on my 1970 2002. I am also looking for the right rear axle.

Location: long beach,ca

This is part of the housing we used to have on our car, it also had a housing for the oil filter up on the side of the engine bay. We need to replace the whole set up as ours was crushed in an accident.

I am in Southern Calif and looking for a Remote oil filter housing for an M10 engine. The one that bolts to the block. I am also looking for a 38/38 weber carb. I am in Long Beach.

Interested in either 38/38 carb and canon manifold. I would prefer the manual choke carb.

We just smashed the front end of our 1973 2002 race car and need a new front end. Do you still have this available?

If you spin the engine over with the spark plugs out make sure you take the coil wire out of the distributor cap and ground it. You do not want any sparks around if raw fuel comes out of the spark plug holes! Keep an extinguisher handy just in case.

What does it do when you try to start it? Spin slowly = weak battery, backfire out of carb? = ignition timing off, no spark at coil lead= check points, spark at coil lead but not at plug wires = ck dist rotor/cap, plugs wet but spark avail = flooded, clean plugs then reinstall and crank eng with no choke and throttle open. When checking spark take an old plug and remove the ground electrode (the metal that is where spark jumps to) if it will spark from the center electrode to the side of the plug your spark strength is OK. This would confirm only that the coil and points are working. Also use mirror to look down carb throat and see if raw fuel pouring into throat. If yes, stuck float in carb.

I have a leak on the trans output shaft on my 1973 base model. This is a 4 speed but it's not the original. I just replaced the syncros in it and it also has a new rear seal. I was looking thru the forums and now see that there are two sizes of output shaft seals? Can anyone out there tell me how to tell them apart and how to tell which one my trans needs? The car has not been driven since I did the work on it. I noticed it when I had the front end raised and noticed a small trail of oil coming from the seal. This leads me to believe it's the wrong size.

After thinking about it I decided to pull the pan. I used the cherry picker to lift the engine enough to remove it and sure enough, I had the tube in upside down. Boy do I feel stupid.

Now I am worried..I found some posts that mention installing the tube in the oil pump upside down causing the same issue. Now I have to decide if I should pull the engine again or just lift it a bit to get the pan off. Can anyone give me any tips on what I would read for pressure if the tube is upside down? On a normal car I read that I would expect to see about 48-60 cold, 125 psi at 2500, about 28-40 hot at 1500 rpm and about 75 psi at 4500 rpm. Does that sound about right?

Quickest way to remove the oil pump? I don't have a lift but the engine hoist is still handy.

Hello all,

I have a 1973 2002 base model that I just finished rebuilding. It has a remote filter with an oil cooler. When I start the engine and rev it the gasket on the oil filter pops out and it start leaking badly. Apparently it cannot seal against the oil pressure. I am running 20-50wt oil and it originally it had a fram 3816 filter on it. I replaced that with a NAPA 1374 filter. The filter is tight and the lines from the block appear to be correct. Oil from the filter base on the block is going to the remote filter housing labeled IN. I have not checked pressure as I did not have a 12 x 1.50 fitting. (I have one on order).

I am getting plenty of oil up to the cam. I checked the oil pump when I had it apart and the relief valve piston seemed OK. Is this simply an oil filter issue or is it more likely I have a stuck oil pressure relief?

Thanks Preyupy!

Those are exactly the ones I was talking about.

Hi All, I want to replace a syncro on a Getrag 4 speed and on the end case it has these 4 small plugs that cover the bores for the shift shaft detent springs. Does anyone know where I can get these? These plugs have to come out in order to re-install the detent balls and I don't think I can get them out without damaging them. I was able to find the syncronizer and gasket set online but not these plugs. They look like mini freeze plugs. Does the BMW dealer still carry these? My car is a 1973 base model 2002.

Hello Walter,

Your engine looks very nice! I am building a similar one as a mild racer. We are using 90mm cast pistons and was wondering what you had for piston to cylinder clearance. The books I have say that the factory spec is 0.0018". Mine came back from the machine shop with 0.003" clearance and the machinist insists this is what he has done in the past. What did you use and how's it working for you?

It would be interesting to hear how it feels to drive your car after all the work you have put in it.

thanks!

Rudy G.

Thanks!

We are rebuilding a 1973 2002 that is a track only car. It has an E12 cylinder head and would like to know if anyone has the factory specs for the valve seats, and the valve stem installed height. I thought I read somewhere that BMW used a 2 angle cut on these. We will go with at least a 3 angle cut.

Seems like the only way to tell for sure is to remove the oil level plug on the side and have a peek inside with a borescope.

Now I'm really confused. The outside of my trans looks like the one you say has Borg syncros but mine clearly has Porsche style. Take a look at my pictures and tell me what you think.

Thanks for the information. I will look at my trans and see if it matches your photos.

Hi guys, I'm new to this so bear with me. I have a 1973 2002 base and this is a track only car. The trans has a bad 2nd gear syncro and I opened it to find porsche style syncros. The end case has some numbers on it 232 being one of them. Did any 2002 4 spds come with borg syncros or only on later 242 trans? Is there any way to tell from the outside what type of syncros it has?

Interested in the trans but I'm in Southern Calif. Where are you?

Do you still have that 4 speed?