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Posts posted by Gil. H.
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Price: $250Location: Austin, TX
Description:For sale, an original STAHL header that I bought here on the FAQ a few years ago. Never installed it and don't plan to any time soon. Looking to get what I've got in it.
1 3/8" primary with a 2" diameter output. In good used condition. It's got a ceramic coating that's showing it's age, but still presents well.
This is the real deal and should perform well on a standard or slightly modified m10 block.
I never installed it, it's use was with the prior owner. Price does not include shipping and I only charge actual shipping charges, that includes box and wrapping.
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Ed.
Happy belated b-day Z-man. Very fortunate to have you and the rest of the 02 gang here in Austin.
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1 hour ago, Dick R said:
I had considered getting the same one that you have, but thought it might be kinda small and fill up quickly. However, I really like the way you mounted it to the air cleaner and I may follow your lead (I haven't yet received the larger one that I ordered).
I noticed that yours was empty when you took the picture. Is that because you had recently drained it?
Dick,
I don't drive my car all that much anymore, about 50 miles a month, it once was my daily driver, now mostly cars and coffee and Sunday driving. I haven't emptied it in about 4 months. If you look closely, you'll see a little bit of oil in the bottom of the bowl. It's nice to have a clear bowl to quickly see what's up. I also like that as mounted, when you take off the silencer, it all comes off as one unit.
g.
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Oil Catch Can (OCC) option.
I used to have a hose an screen running down to the firewall out the bottom, but I never liked the way it looked and thought I could do better. Like a lot of folks here, I did a search and found various solutions, some better than others, to add an OCC.I considered an eBay, Amazon manufactured stock OCC solution but did not want to mount anything to the fender or firewall, I came across this clear oil separator on Amazon made by K-Motor Performance, out of California and available at Amazon.
I like it as it's small, has a clear bowl that I can easily check to see what's coming out of the valve cover and into the carb. It's small enough to mount on the back of the air silencer, easy to plumb and empty when full. It's made really well, handles temps with no problem, I'm surprised how will it works. If I remember, it cost about $25 a couple of hears ago, it's now $30.Amazon K-Performance Mini OCC
I replaced the head gasket on my car a few years ago, my first time, and I'm always worried that I didn't torque down the bolts tight enough or missed something, so far so good. (The pix rotated left for some reason and I didn't find a way get straighten them out.)
Just another option to consider, your mileage my vary.
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I had a Z3 sometime back and took it to a McBrake place for rotors and pads replacement. I checked with the local dealership for parts pricing and then got the estimate for parts from McBrakes. Their parts prices where significantly higher than the dealership that I consider the upper end of the price spectrum. I was able to negotiate the parts price down to slightly below the dealership when I asked them to consider the dealership parts price. Doesn't always work, but doesn't hurt to ask.
I do agree though with others here that if you're seeking their services; shop tools, shop rules.
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The wheel well cuts are sad to see.....
Les, don't drink the water!
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I came across this website while looking for some parts, and thought it was a great read. Some things about oil I knew, the processing of oil caught my interest.
A somewhat thorough article about how oil is classified, refining processes, synthesizing and additives written for the layman. A little technical, but worth the 15 or so minutes to understand the base characteristics of oils and processing. Also includes a couple a swipes at the marketing types.
g.
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I installed a Soundstream STEALTH amp with bluetooth that works alone or inline with the existing radio almost 2 years ago. I placed it under the passenger seat and have no complaints. It's small, low profile and allows you to keep the period radio while streaming via bluetooth and is seamless. No dials or remote as it can auto sense when the radio is on or streaming is active.
There are a number of newer amps now with this same capability, so another option to consider.....
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PM sent.
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Great comments from everyone here. On the entertainment side, I installed a Bluetooth amplifier Stealth Amp. from Amazon, located it under the passenger seat and can link my phone for tunes without any cabling. Works really well and also connects to the factory radio so that when on it switches to the radio instead of BT, seamlessly. There's no remote. I also had my speakers re-coned at the time as they were buzzing after 40+ years, so now it's all good.
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Thanks everyone. I was able to re-condition the set I had. They were in better shape than I thought.
I worked on the mounting holes, filled in a couple of cracks and gave them a little paint. Turned out fairly good.
Side note: I started this project as the bumper was off kilter, left lower than the right. I ended up pulling the bumper, one of the round bumper brackets is compressed and not the same diameter as the other, the inside of the center was covered in surface rust. So, what was initially a job to level the bumper turned out to be a limited restoration of the rear bumper.
Project creep strikes again.
Thanks Resra and everyone else I contacted on this little project.
Best,
g.
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Dredging up an old topic. In the age of digital printing, has anyone come around to printing replacement covers? Or found a source? I could use a replacement set. Any information is appreciated.
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I did some research online and it appears to be the primary throttle shaft.
I know what to do now. Might be a little figgly, but certainly doable and will probably replace the plastic bushings with bearings that appear to handle off center loads better.
Best,
g.
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I've stripped the threads that connect the throttle rod to my Weber 38/38 carb. I checked the diagram from the usual sources and don't see this particular bolt.
I appears connected to the primary shaft and screwed in? Is this right?
I need to get it replaced but would like to know if this is something I can do or would I be better sending it out for repair.Any and all insights are appreciated.
BTW: Do not over tighten the attaching nut, the tabbed lock washer, which I am missing, is your friend.
Much thanks,
Gil.
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Greetings.
I'm looking for a Weber 38/38 throttle rod,the "u" bracket and locking nut.
Thanks,
Gil.
Austin, TX
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Knobs have been found!
Thanks Adawil2002
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Thank you everyone.
Much appreciated.
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Looking for a driver quality set of the old raised letter emblems. I've got some later plastic front and back and they're such poor quality.
I'd like to refurbish a set myself.
Let me know if you've got a single or pair.
Thanks.
Gilbert.
Austin TX.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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pm'd you.
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Quote
I had the same problem, replaced the ground strap from the battery to the block, it looked fine, but after replacement, everything worked better. Everything.
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Stahl Header
in Engine and Drivetrain
Posted
That’s weird. I’ll pm you tomorrow still available