Burleigh

My 1975 '02 blinkers don't work. All other lights including the hazards work fine.

When I move the turn stalk, it clicks into place, but there is no clicking after that. NOTHING happens with the lights.

However, I think there is a current being drawn. When the car is cold, and I turn the key to test the turn signals, the temperature gauge moves up slightly AFTER I move the turn stalk.

Anyone know which relay/flasher is the one for the signals? I have already cleaned all the fuses just in case. Thanks!

Tim

You probably just need some of this...

http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2&products_id=6

LOL!

Yeah, I just used the rags because they were handy and I couldn't find anything better at the time. I can now think of a lot of things that would be better... I'm even thinking of making some thick spacers that would fit under the valves and somewhat snap into place out of solid teflon. If they work out, I'd make a bunch of them and offer them to the M10 crowd too.

Glad you worked it out!

-Richard

Mine got squished once.

I sure hope you're talking about your car... LOL!

You've got flares right??? Cut those b*tches....

Seriously though, a dead blow hammer or something would do fine. You just have to go slow and even. I've used some good rollers before and wound up just taking the dead blow to it anyway... even heating the paint doesn't guarantee it won't crack. Just be prepared for it to crack and if it doesn't you'll be happy. :-) Good Luck.

YES too cool...IF the gauge is correct. It sounds like either the T stat is too cold or stuck open. I find it common for people to start throwing in a very cold Tstat when it starts to run warmer rather than fix the problem it was having....

This may be a dumb question, but I don't see how the cold thermostat would make a difference after the initial warm up period: it might send coolant through the radiator earlier (and delay warm-up), but after an hour or so of driving wouldn't the temp reach the same equilibrium point? In my case the thermostat may be a "cooler" one, as the car was originally an Arizona car. But I didn't do anything to the thermostat when the rad was repaired.

If the gauge is correct then your thermostat may have gotten stuck open. Sometimes when you mess with other parts of the cooling system it knocks chunks of built up deposits that can get stuck and hold the thermostat open... this would allow coolant to flow through the block and head all the time keeping it at very cool temps.

They are cheap. Can't hurt to put a new one in and see if that's the issue.

Good Luck!

That happened to me the other day. Turned out that the wire to the sending unit was loose...

Check the gap between the pickup and the magnetic wheel on the electrinic ignitiion. Sounds to me like they are too close or ever rubbing together....let us know what you find

X2. I've seen that several times with symptoms you described...

What he said, but be sure to drain your coolant. If you don't, coolant could get into your cylinder whenever you loosen the head bolts...

passenger seat speed governor kicked in

That's what I call mine too! Haha! And no, I don't think I fooled her any either... She's just learned to pick her battles I guess...

You have a sharp eye my friend. And just in case any law enforcement types are viewing this, remember that you can do anything with computers.

Had my wife in the car car the other day:

"Is that speedometer correct?!?!?"

"Oh, No honey..."

"Why not?"

"Well, different rearend, different size tires and the thing is just old..."

"HUH"

"Seriously!, It's got to be off by at least 20-30 mph..." ;-)

"Can it be fixed?"

"Oh sure, but it would be really expensive..." :-)

I did try to keep it under 3 digit's though... However, my son tattled after riding with me later!!...

I caught a 109 on the speedo...

and no pictures? what kind of tease is this? :-)

Yeah, what's up with that?

PICS! PICS! PICS!

Pleeeeease? :-)

Is the plug soaked with fuel when you remove it shortly after running the engine? Did you pull plug wires one at a time after switching the plugs around?

Try all new plugs if you haven't, they're cheap...

Also, did you check that there is spark coming from the #4 wire itself? just put a screwdriver or something in it and see if it arcs to a ground on the engine somewhere whenever the engine is turned over. I have seen caps with internal breaks in them too...

Alright, try taking all the spark plugs out and see how well it spins. It is normal to have the resistance as a cylinder begins to build compression, but with all the plugs out it should spin freely... If not there are some internal issues. There are several possibilities though. Pull the plugs and report back.

But dude, thats how they do it in a Nascar pitstop!

HAHA! Well, I guess if NASCAR does it then it should work for me too...LOL!

Faulty materials or poor installation...

How can a pressure plate be installed poorly? They are pretty basic I thought. Tighten the bolts down in sequence and torque to spec? I have never heard of that so thats why I am asking

You answered your own question... You'd be surprised at how little some know about basic installation concepts. I watched the owner of our local Minekie put the rim back on a 4x4 chevy truck with an impact wrench one day. He started with one lug nut and tightened it down as much as it would go with the big impact and then moved over to the one right next to it and continued in a circle until he had tightened them all down tight... Then dropped the truck off the jack and handed the customer his keys!!!

So, it is possible to install the pressure plate improperly, but it takes a real ignoramus as you pointed out.

Faulty materials or poor installation...

I should also probably tell you that I'm a 19 year old kid who is quite inexperienced under the hood.

This statement shows your wisdom beyond your years... :-)

1. Do you have a syncrometer, flowmeter or vacuum gauge of any kind? If not, you will need to buy or borrow one. You can get close by ear, but that takes some experience...

2. Another good purchase for learning with would be one of those nifty sparkplugs with a site glass that tell you if the cylider is running lean or rich. Otherwise, you will have to just go by ear and checking your plugs one at a time unless you run an O2 sensor, but even then it just gives you an overall picture and not individual cylinders...

First thing you should do is to make sure everything else is in tune and to spec. Adjust your valves, make sure you have good spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, etc... If you haven't got an electronic ignition yet you should consider it. Once these basics are taken care of, then start in on the carbs. For one, if your engine is pretty stock other than the carb, you are going to have fits getting them to run as well as some other options, but it can be done. Get the flow meter on them and make sure they are syncronized at idle and around 3000 rpm's. Then what I do is take all my idle mix screws to zero and then back them off one and a half full turns just to start. Then, adjust them out one at a time until you hear the motor start to stumble. Then go in with it until the motor starts to stumble again. Take note of the difference in the amount you turned it out and then back in and set it half way between the two. do this to all four cylinders and you will get really close.

Good luck!

You said that your oil level was low a couple weeks ago and that you added to it. Have you checked the oil level recently? Not trying to offend you with such basic quetions, just trying to get a full picture of what's going on...

Can you tell what area of the engine the noise is coming from? Front, back, high, low...

So what happened when you jump started it or did you try a new battery?

tell us all who all the people are....

Well, there's that "Burly" guy in the third picture from the top. I hear you gotta watch out for him, he's got those "beady" eyes...!!!

...I had a great time guys and gals! I can't wait until next spring! With any luck there will be some positive intake pressures under the hood of the ole rat by then... ;-)

This is quite inspiring for me...

Just invite your in-laws (if you have any) or the like over and you'll get inspired to spend some time in the shop real fast...LOL!

Seriously though, just think about the end result first, then think about something you can do in a couple of hours that will get you closer to that goal.

You'll get there. I've had projects that took years to complete. Others only took a few months, but all were worth the wait!

Good Luck!!

If you shim the front (where I would, if you need that little)

just make sure that the pilot nose rides securely on the transmission

stub.

Then you'll be fine.

It should be ok.

If it's 1/8".... well... If I couldn't make that up in the motor mounts,

I might be tempted to stretch the guibo a little and see how it went.

That thing is pretty tough.

I agree.

How did you check your battery? Voltage does not equal amps... If you only used a volt meter and not a load tester you may not have an accurate picture of your battery's condition. Have you tried jump starting it yet? This is where I would begin. That or try a known good battery from another car...

Also, check to be sure that all of the connections to the battery and starter are very clean and shiny. Sometimes they can look clean, but will have a dull build up of corrosion that looks like metal but does not conduct electricity well... Use a good wire brush or knife if you have to, but make sure everything is very clean.

It really sounds like your alt. went out and your battery is now too weak to start the car.