bonobo

I searched the site, but no results for good wiring diagrams. Maybe someone can point me in the right direction seeing as I need to sort out some electrical gremlins. Specifically related to wiring under the dash, The car is a 75' 2002(non tii) manual trans. Any help would be awesome and much appreciated. Thanks for looking!

now what if I'm running pertronix? just swap it over from my old distributor to the new one? lube the gear and voila?

Will do! thanks so far...

but why is that when I leave the distributor vacuum hose off, my car runs smoothly with not even a blip, but as soon as I re-attach it, the problem starts again? I have another distributor to use, could the distributor be the problem, perhaps something involving the vacuum advance?

So, when the vaccuum advance is unplugged from the distributor the car runs with no problems at all (so far, but it's been running the longest distance without problems since I can remember) so what does that mean, bad distributor?

So the gas tank is full and the problem is still persisting. When I checked the timing it wasn't on the ball bearing, but on what looked like a stamped #10 with a little line under it. do they have the retarded, and advanced numbers stamped on the flywheel?

1975 2002, stock m10

It seems to only chug when warmed up, and not at any specific rpm range.

All these parts I will list are brand new, and my problem is still persisting.

Weber 32/36 dgev installed today

(correct) Bosch coil

Mechanical fuel pump

Fuel filter

Spark plugs

Fuel lines

Not a specific rpm range, mph, or gear it is the same problem as before the parts were changed out... It usually keep the car lower on gas, but it's 100% full now, so I cannot attest to fuel level being a symptom yet. I will drive it today, and post results of that one!

For the picture:

The fuel filter has since been replaced and moved to the other side of the pump with brand new lines.

would that get show itself only when the engine is warmed up though? I'll be checking timing soon, but I'm just plain stumped. and frustrated...

So my car has an intermittent chugging problem that I cannot for the life of me find out the reason, and it is really starting to effect me seeing as my commute to college is somewhat far.

So....

1975 2002, stock m10

It seems to only chug when warmed up, and not at any specific rpm range.

All these parts I will list are brand new, and my problem is still persisting.

Weber 32/36 dgev installed today

(correct) Bosch coil

Mechanical fuel pump

Fuel filter

Spark plugs

Fuel lines

All these have been replaced within the last month, and as you can see there somewhat expensive, and I'm about at the end of my rope. The only thing I can think of is timing, but I don't know why it would only present itself when warmed up. I properly adjusted the valves to .008 also. (assume I did it correctly, because I did) I would greatly appreciate your guys help, it's becoming so much of an issue I am going to have to sell it soon because it's beginning to interfere with my school, and I am running low on funds as a result.

Thanks all!

True the IE one is the one I'm assuming you speak of. Damn those are spendy. It would look good though, good call.

Thanks for the comment guys!!!

and damnit I want one! where would I source one, and how much do they usually run?

I've got a write up coming up on some of the suspension changes I did, not long so don't worry! I did rub often, but careful, careful, careful fender rolling on the inner fender lip fixed it. Though I won't attempt to go up into that driveway unless it's a straight shot with wood to help me out

and yes the idea of an accident with an suv is crazy, I've got almost no chance haha. I've come to accept that if it's going to happen it's going to. I drive pretty slow everywhere I go anyway... like that will help.

I'm not sure about the front plate in my state, I should look into it because I hate having it, but I'm thinking I heard it's required.

I keep going too low in the front, then too low in the rear, so finding a middle ground has been frustrating, I've been thinking I need about 1/2-1 inch lower in the rear too.

I'm too lazy to paint match the dam, I was going to but the matched paint color wasn't close enough for me so I left it black, then it grew on me.

Thanks everyone!!!

To start with, I know there are some purists here, but remember it's my car and I can not stand fender gaps... anyway enjoy! and thanks for all the advice this far, I'll be needing more soon I'm sure!

sorry I shouldn't have even posted this, I went out with a power tester and poked around like I should have in the first place, Sooo... If people are having blinker problems and the hazard unit isn't the issue, check the back of the unit to see if your getting power to the purple/lavenderish wire with the white stripe, that was my problem.

1975 2002 btw

anyone have one for me? late models if they're different.

Weird happenings today, I was toying with the carb, and turned the passenger side idle jet about a quarter of a turn while the car was running (super rough) and to my surprise... The idle smoothed out, and I can now drive it as it was before the weird problems came up!?!!? maybe I turned it a little to tight when re-assembling the carb? either way it's working great now, but I'm still skeptical.

any pics or info on where they go, I'm trying to put the one I just bought off of ymanchik today, and I have a weber, so I don't know where the lines go

Thanks

how about a single barrel Solex?

intake, carb, linkage, aircleaner/brackets $45+ ship

was it working well when removed? did you just upgrade to a different carb?

Thanks for the offer, but I'm just looking for something a little cheaper to get me on the road again.

I'll buy it, I'm in the Vancouver, Portland area. My number is 3605215566. just call anytime I'm up late. I promise I wont flake!

Thanks

-Trevor

Ok so I took it apart, and re-cleaned it, and payed special attention to the idle jets, now it idles steady. It's still a little rough though. Anyone have a carb they're willing to sell me? preferably one that will bolt up and need no tuning? I'm beginning to think it's not carb related. Stock solex or Weber it doesn't matter to me.

Thanks

I don't care if it's a solex, or weber, I just ask that it will bolt right up and worked correctly when it was removed, I'm trying to see if my current issues are carb related. Preferably someone here in the northwest, but let me know what you have!

Thanks

I would say double check your idle jets (ask me how I know...) Then also make sure your idle solenoid is working if you have one. Sounds like a clogged idle jet to me though.

The jets, and the rest of the carburetor was cleaned very thoroughly, so I don't think that is the issue.

Weber 32/36.

So before we were having a sputtering problem during acceleration but perfect idle, and we decided to rebuild the carb, and it was DIRTYYY. After the rebuild was finished we started her up, and she idled very inconsistently, and dies randomly, but sometimes stays crappily idling. the float level is adjusted correctly (brass 41/51) And my car still idles inconsistently and dies whenever it's in the mood and it's making me crazy!! It's shaky, but when it's at higher rpm's it drives better than before the rebuild, so I'm not sure what the problem could be, there doesn't appear to be any vacuum leaks. I'm in dire need of some advice I live off campus and sharing the car is getting strenuous.

Thanks in advance!