ymanchik

On 5/18/2021 at 6:21 PM, Teelinger said:

Your best bet is to take the ferry over to Seattle and go to Patrick at Midnight Motorsports in West Seattle. 

Yea, Patrick is my number one choice. Just not sure how often I'll make that trip over to West Seattle.

Just moved out here and wanted to see if there is anyone you guys recommend for work out here? Need some timing work and other fine details dialed in to make it run smoother.

Finally upgraded my wheels and have been holding onto these in case I wanted to go back to the hubcap style but I'm happy with my current wheels. Wheels are in decent shape, I drove on them for the last 8 years. Tires aren't great. No idea how to price these, so feel free to make an offer. In the photo there is a 5th wheel (spare), that one isn't for sale. Need it for my car.

They are stamped 8/70

I've lived with this crack in my dash for a long time. Figure it's time to finally get it taken care of. Anyone in the Seattle/Tacoma area you can recommend to do this?

Also need an early fuse box cover (6 fuse holder) and a hazard switch like the photo below, just the red knob. Thanks.

1 minute ago, Preyupy said:

The knob is missing, it screws in from the top.  It looks like the switch is there just no knob. 

Thanks! I'll see if I can find one in the classifieds.

I have a 1970 2002 and where I should have a button for the hazards there is nothing there. Just a metal plug. Looking underneath, all the wiring goes there and looks like what I've seen other 2002's have. Am I missing the button?

And related to that. I just did the electronic flasher relay mod and everything works great but the relay makes the clicking noise as if my turn signals are on, and it shows up on my dash that they're on but the actual turn signals are not on. But when I engage the turn signal stalk, left or right, it clicks just a little bit faster and the turn signals work as they should. Once I take the stalk back to resting, it goes back to a slower clicking and the dash light goes off and on.

Any suggestions? 

Looking for some random stuff. Need the plastic cover for the wiring that goes on the back of the tail lights. And one rubber rear shock cover, goes on the very top, inside the trunk. That's all I can think of right now. Thanks.

I checked the wiring at the taillights but didn't think to check the bulb holders. I'll do a more thorough check of all the wiring before heading underneath the car. Appreciate it!

Wasn't sure if it was my turn signals, brakes or reverse light. After a process of elimination and a handful of blown fuses, figured out it was when I engage reverse. Would the first thing be to replace the switch on the tranny? Or is there something else I should check first before trying to get to that switch? Speaking of that, whats the easiest way to get to it, if I need to replace it? Thanks!

On 1/26/2019 at 8:32 AM, Whaledriver said:

I had the same issue on one side when I did the conversion. Discovered it was the bulb socket contacts had a weak return spring allowing one of the two contact wires protrude and  short circuit at the base of the bulbs two contact points.  Make sure you have an inline fuse on each turn signal circuit.

I think that might be my problem. I think the springs are touching when the bulb is installed. Here are some photos. 

Finally got the euro turn signals installed but they keep blowing my 8A fuse for the turn signals (same fuse as the brake lights). Gone through a few fuses and can't seem to figure out what the problem is. Anyone else run into a similar problem and can advise? Or better yet, if you're in Seattle, I've got coffee/drinks/food if you want to help tackle this together.

Thanks!

Without the distributor cap while trying to start it:

Finally had time to mess around with this some more. Thanks for your help by the way.

But I still can't get it started. Looks like I have no spark. 

Checked the coil and it seems to be working. Does that mean it's the Pertronix ignitor in the distributor that could be out? Or is my wiring not correct? Any suggestions on what else to check on why I all of sudden wouldn't have spark?

Took the coil, ballast, distributor out. Cleaned up the area of all the grime. Put on new spade connectors. Put everything back. And now the car won't start. I know this isn't much info but anything that comes to mind right away? Do I have to redo the timing if I took the distributor out?

I read through this post - 

 but I feel like they all look the same and I'm going to run into the same problem of the pump hitting the coolant hose and not fitting. Any suggestions or work arounds?

Just bought the Pierburg fuel pump (7.02242.25.0) but it won't fit because the coolant hose is in the way and the fuel pump is a bit larger (sorry, forgot to take a picture). Which fuel pump do you guys update/upgrade to? This is for a 1971 2002. Thanks

Do you have another dome light by chance? Thanks.

So I replaced my driver side door stop with the ireland engineering one. Couple problems I ran into, hoping someone had something similar and could advise.

1. The door stop came with a bolt that goes through the a pillar mount and through the door stop. The bolt I got was too thick and wouldn't fit through the hole in the A pillar bracket. I didn't think drilling it out would be a good idea (and a pain to get to with a drill) so I just reused the the old original pin. It works but the pin isn't snuck in the door stop collar and there is some movement which brings me to the next point.

2. Loud clicking/bang noise when door stop engages in the recessed part of the door stop. Sound really bad. I'm assuming it's from the fact that the pin in the a pillar mount isn't snuck so it bangs against it when it pops into a 'stop' position.

3. The new one seems like it lets the door open way too far, to the point where the trim hits the fender and it would probably go even further. Even comparing them side by side, the new one seems longer. Is this right? Any way to make it not open so far?

Anyways, hope that made sense. Anyone have similar problems, any suggestions or work-arounds? Much appreciated.

Picture of the old broken one vs the new one.

Just finished doing my front subframe, suspension and steering box rebuild. Have some stock parts I would like to sell. All these parts are off a running car that I drove once a week or so. Would prefer local sales but could possibly ship. I'm not sure on how to price it, pulled the pricing off ebay so if you think it's unfair, feel free to make an offer. Let me know if you need more photos of anything.

Front struts and springs, including strut mounts. $200

Front control arms, one has the ball joint riveted in. $SOLD

Rear springs $40

Rear shocks $SOLD

Steering tie rod assembly $20

Master brake cylinder $80

Clutch slave $SOLD

Clutch master cylinder $SOLD

Original starter $40

E21 alternator, bought from a fellow FAQ but it's not a direct bolt on as I was told. $80

Random items (make offer): 4 stock brake hoses, original rubber steering coupler, brake and clutch pedal covers, right and left engine mounts and holder, brake fluid reservoir, right door handle, turn signal stalk

6 hours ago, 2002Scoob said:

I had similar problems when I installed mine. I just used a rat-tail file to hog out the needed space. 

Good to hear, I'll do the same. Thanks.

Working on my front end and ran into a problem. The fixed camber plates don't fit my strut bearing, it's just a tiny bit off. I was planning on drilling out the hole a little bigger to accommodate it. But figured I better ask to see if I'm missing something before I do that. Anyone have any suggestions/tips? Thanks.

Would like to replace my 13x4.5 steelies with something bigger. I'm in Seattle, would prefer local but willing to paying for shipping. Let me know what you have. Thanks.

3 hours ago, halboyles said:

The metal piece is a locking collar.  Pry down the edge that is holding the nut in place.  The nut can then be removed.  Using an impact wrench helps.

Perfect, thanks for that. Wasn't sure if it was supposed to be bent out of the way or not. 

3 hours ago, 72ITB said:

32mm socket, can "rent" free from Autozone with this http://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools/pitman-arm-puller/great-neck-light-truck-pitman-arm-puller/695090_0_0  puller.

 

nut comes off easy, pulling the arm is a little tougher

Thanks. Yea I got the nut off quite easily after bending that washer out but that arm is another story. Have tried everything I can here in the garage, will have to go get the puller from autozone. Thanks for the tip.