NorCalKiD

email returned

I still have the car and I need it gone. Make me an offer.

I emailed you my number, not sure if it went through. Car is still available.

bfleming73@hotmail.com

I still have it. What specifically do you want pictures of? I will give you a call tomorrow morning.

-Brennan

Alright here is a link to some pictures. Turns out by the spare looks alright, just the trunk lid on the inside edge that is really rusty. The seats are pretty shot, mostly just springs but the carpet is in great shape. Door panels are loosing chrome paint but otherwise are in decent shape. Dash has a few cracks but nothing horrible. Let me know if you want pictures of something specific and I will take some.

http://s440.photobucket.com/albums/qq127/BrennanFleming/BMW%202002/

I have a 1973 that blew a head gasket last spring, I messed up the repair somehow and ended up with 30,0,0,40psi when I compression tested it. I am guessing I got the cam and crank out of position when the timing chain went back on? I don't have the time or money to fix it right now and am looking to get it out of the drive way. In August 2009 it got a weber 38/38, IE header, IE stainless exhaust and IE electronic distributor. It has a decent sound system, 4 5" speakers and a 8" sub with amp. Pretty solid over all, some rust by the spare tire and trunk lid. A lot of bondo on the passenger door. Quality primer under a flat black spray paint job. Bottle caps and good tires with lots of tread left. I will post some pictures tomorrow. Looking to get around $1700

I have a 73 with electronic ignition, weber 38/38, IE headers, IE stainless exhaust, decent stereo with 8" sub and amp, momo steering wheel and shifter. Still a 4 speed and not running right now. It blew a head gasket and I messed up the cam/crank timing while fixing it and dont have time or motivation to getting it back up and running. Minimal rust, mostly in the spare tire well. Drivers door has a lot of bondo on it, good primer under flat black spray paint. All in all a pretty decent car if you are looking for a small project. Let me know if you are interested and I will take some pictures

I had my plug wires on the distributor going the wrong direction. I switched them and the battery was dead so I am not sure if it starts yet. Stupid problem to have

Hmm I didn't think about it being 180 out, I will check. I set TDC after I got it all together again, but I put it together the same way it came out and verified that the pistons and valves are in the right spot with the marks on the cam and flywheel. I hope its that easy, I haven't driven it in almost 4 months.

So I blew a head gasket in my 73 and am working on getting it running again. I am having some issues setting static timing and getting it to run. I have been reading up on it and its got me stumped. I set it at TDC (verified with the mark on the flywheel and the camshaft) and then put the distributor rotor on the #1 spot and I get nothing. I have tried it several times now with no luck. Its getting spark and gas but it wont fire, I dont get it. Its a pretty stock engine, 38/38 electronic ignition and exhaust. What am doing wrong here? Any help would be amazing. Thanks

-Brennan

Some advice....

That being said, go to Harbor Freight, spend $20 for a spray gun to hook up to your aircompressor. Then head to your local auto paint supply shop and pick up a quart of paint, plus clear and reducer.

YOU CAN DO THIS! Total cost is around $200 tops, and you end up with a decent paint job if you prep well.

Of course metallic is harder to do as mine got sunk in the paint, but overall I'm happy with the results.

BD

Its not that easy to make it look good with a harbor freight gun and paint is getting damn expensive these days. I doubt you could do it for $200 without getting really low quality paint. I dropped $300 just in primer and they wanted another $500 for paint. I ended up putting some rattle can rustoleum flat black on it, it took 5 cans but I think it turned out good from 20ft. I painted my truck with a harbor freight gun and cheap paint and it looks like crap. I would do some good prep work and use a rattle can, then when you feel rich one day do it with some good stuff. I will post pictures of my 2002 when the rain stops and its light out

Yeah you have to pull the whole box. The link above to the heater box rebuild will also tell you how to get the fan out. I swapped in a cheap wally world fan like this article describes but it is also pretty detailed on just how to swap a fan out http://www.kateward.org/bmw/e10/heaterfan/ [/url]

Make sure the wiper mechanisms work correctly BEFORE the heater box is re-installed.

Your DIY project on the heater box starts here http://www.bmw2002faq.com/content/view/73/32/

I second that I just replaced my fan and had to remove the box a few times before I got it right, its kind of a pain in the butt but definitely doable

-I use an old backpack to keep my tools close.

-If you need a part leave all the brackets and stuff on it they usually throw them in for free.

-If you think the checkout lady doesn't know what the part is make something up or call it something cheap

-mmmmm taco truck

-A rag is nice to have to wipe the std's off

-A pipe or cheater bar can come it handy

-A hammer is a very important tool

-So are vice grips

Woops I just saw the B and CA sorry about that. Damn I was excited about those, shipping will kill the deal though. Good luck with the sale

I am interested in one of these. Where are you in the bay area? I will be driving through from Davis to Santa Cruz sometime later this week probably Friday.

-Brennan

Get a small flat head screwdriver and pull up on the base of the arm, if you look under you can see a small metal tab the holds the arm on. use the screwdriver to lever the tab out and the arm should pop off. I just replaced mine and they took a fair amount of pulling to come of. Good luck

Good call on replacing the ground, I thought mine looked ok but apparently not. I parked it after driving for about 10 min and came back an hour later to a note saying under my hood was smoking. I looked and saw that the chassis ground was melted through and it had caught the nylon battery strap on fire. It took out the loom of wires running to the alternator too. Fun fun, so if your ground looks a little bit shady replace it and save yourself some work.

I am doing a color change, tan(I think its sierra?) to a 2008 BMW purple/maroon I forget the name. But under the hood and the trunk will just get some flat black rattle can for now and por15 or some rust converter down the road. I am thinking a two stage because thats what the paint shop recommended. I am am new painting and making it look good. I sprayed my k5 in high school but that was with rustoleum and I didn't try to make it pretty knowing it was going to get beat to hell anyway. Thanks for the help

-Brennan

I just got my first 2002, its a 73 mostly stock for now. I am in college and have a k5 rock crawler project too so money is pretty tight, but it will slowly get built up, webber 38/38, cam, exhaust, 5 speed. I just finished up the body work and am now looking at paint. How much do I need to spray a 02? I don't have all that much money and paint is pretty damn expensive so I don't want to buy more then I need. Thanks

-Brenann

What colors are you planning? I am going to run a maroon (honda dark cherry pearl) on the bottom and a flat black on the top. I pulled the trim and filled the holes and think it looks a lot cleaner but it is still stripped down right now so I am not sure what it will look like. So pretty much I am no help...

Looking good, a lot like my '73. Same color, wheels and stage of tear down minus the paint that is. Mine is still in the body work stage.

Looking good, a lot like my '73. Same color, wheels and stage of tear down minus the paint that is. Mine is still in the body work stage.