wickahead
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Posts posted by wickahead
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$ sent. Thanks Lee.
//Mark
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The list is obviously now closed for the intro price.
Regular price is now in effect, and only three units are available. $850.00usd includes fasteners, rubber flaps and teflon gasket.
01 - Marshall - $200 deposit received
02 - Rey - $200 deposit received
03 - Rey - $200 deposit received
04 - Rey -$200 deposit received
05- Rick74 - $200 deposit received
06 - Julio - $200 deposit received
07 - Jan - $200 deposit received
08 - theirrymartinsgi320 - $200 deposit received
09 - Matze - $200 deposit received
10 - Matze - $200 deposit received
11 - Josh Johnson - $200 deposit received
Want to confirm that there are still a couple left? This is the last info I saw from 1/24/11. If so, please count me in, and upon confirmation of avail, I will send deposit.
Thanks!
//Mark
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Why are you selling it?
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Im located in Sacramento and could help arrange the shipping of some items for pick up....PM me for those interested as I plan on ordering mine Monday...
-Josh
PM disabled. I am interested in combined shipping if it is not too late. Let me know if yours has shipped already.
//Mark
(Interested in one or two sets)
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Yeah, there is possibility of issues. I don't remember if Urethane (solvents) will lift the enamel or not.
...google search should help.
//Mark (who is taking paint class at local Junior College) <--take with grain of salt.
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fiberglass (one word) returned this in the first page:
Best of luck!
//Mark
Note: Carbon Fiber or CF may turn up more... If I find more, I will let you know.
edit: CF post... (note: same manufacturer)
which led me to Ireland Engineering's site: http://store.nexternal.com/shared/StoreFront/default.asp?CS=ireland&StoreType=BtoC&Count1=21526515&Count2=938666939
[Further note: A search on Ireland Engineering may reveal more details about their fiberglass hood and trunk pieces]
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...just in case you thought that was a photoshop joke...
http://www.thehoffmangroup.com/autoloc/product.lasso?prodinc=flamethrower
un-believable! I wonder if they sell spray-on hair!
//Mark
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Strangely, I *may* have access to a scanner and printer... at our company's technology center. I remember seeing the 3D printer there.
I don't know if I can get into the city next week to confirm if they have gotten the 3D scanner or not.
So I am not promising anything, but we are not out of options yet.
//Mark
(The company is Autodesk)
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Anyone else here use spraycan brake cleaner for cleaning up pretty much everything? I love that stuff. I pretty much shoot a can at anything that isn't pristine- just love seeing engine grease melt away quickly.
That is all.
...is also a cheap contact high.
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Logan,
PM me about these. and e36 heated switch harnesses.
//Mark
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So do I get to see you on Saturday the 29th?
I am trying to convince Herr Casey to make it too.
//Mark
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Hey there Tom...
Style 19 alert...
http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=66684&highlight=
SoCal.
//Mark
P.S. You coming to my WrenchFest August 29th?
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There are (at least) three major components to doing a paint job... 1) the disassembly and reassembly of stuff from the car (door handles, front grilles, etc.); 2) the prep of the car (rust repair, panel straightening, primering and sanding); and 3) the painting of the car (usually the base coat and the clear coat).
You can switch some of the items around, but I lumped these together because of what you were willing to do...
If you go with doing the first two yourself (in particular, the second one); you will want to make friends with your painter, because most (good) painters are very concerned about what is underneath their paint; because any number of factors can ruin a paint job - improper prep of the painting surface; incompatible primer and paint; improper (incomplete) mixing of plastic body filler (I hate the word bondo); thickness of bondo (er... plastic body filler) - (e.g. too thick); etc. etc. etc.
I would strongly suggest taking a night class at your community college on body repair... You may get to work on your own car as your semester project and you can learn what to do and what not to do. And it is like $60-$80 for the semester.
But like I implied, don't be surprised, mad, or upset if the "paint man" doesn't want to touch your job (without doing the bodywork themselves.)
Yes, you can save big bucks if you do it yourself (90% of a good paint job is the prep [both time and quality]) - but realize that it is a "relationship" between you (the body man) and the paint man.
Plus, and this is the reason most of us are on this board, we enjoy the process of restoring (the best of our ability and toolsets and facilities) our cars.
//Mark
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I was amazed (really f'ing amazed) when I heard Sean Casey's stereo in his tii. <-- (Seriously)
I have seen his stereo installs and am amazed at the build quality. He is also extremely intimate with 2002 restoration and repair (runs his own business). Prior to running his own BMW restoration/repair business, he did high-end home theater installs.
He is located in Petaluma, CA. Check out CaseyMotorSports.com which has his contact information.
//Mark
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Jätte bra!
Please keep us posted, and do let us know how you did the suspension swap, what engine management you are using, and more.
It looks like you have a nice e28 as well.
//Mark
(e28 M5 owner)
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x2 on buffing it out (clay-bar/polish/mild-solvent-that-is-non-reactive-with-your-paint).
You would be amazed at what comes out with the right polish and/or solvent.
You could choose an auto detailer that would be willing to try it, and (ahead of time, negotiate that) if it doesn't work, then the building-owner would pay for the re-spray.
//Mark
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If these are the only speakers (like headphones), then that might work for you.
If you have mid-bass in the door, or rear full-range speakers, the timing of the sounds reaching your ears will be off.
You can get around the timing issue (to a certain extent) by using a (newer) head-unit / signal processor that, after measuring the frequencies in the cabin, changes the delay/timing of some frequencies and/or front/rear (and left/right) balance to create a "sweet spot" for the driver. The key is where you place the microphone when you run the set up. Since the speakers in the headrest are so close to your ears, you would want to place the microphone where your head is when running the setup.
An example of this type of head-unit is the Alpine 9887
//Mark
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It all depends how easy a new shell is to come by up where you are at, and how much of the work you are doing yourself (vs. farming out to professionals).
If, for example, shells are easy to come by, then go for another one. Either you are going to be fixing the old one yourself (lots of time), or paying someone else to do it (lots of $$$). If the frame rails are bent, you can fix it; but you need to put it on a rack and check the measurements to make sure that the car is straight before you put the time/money into the body and paint.
If the challenge of fixing and restoring IS the purpose of the car, then great; go for it. If the purpose of the car is to drive it, then it would, at first glance, make sense to look for a new example. For me, personally, the turning point would be the bent frame rails.
//Mark
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...and it still has the TRX tires!
Woot!
Likewise, let me know if you have questions or need parts. I have had 9 of the e28s at one time or another.
//Mark
'88 m5
(almost have) '72 sunroof
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THAT was hilarious!
George Thielen
74 inka
Absolutely hilarious. Still laughing.
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Mark - I would be willing to help too.
Your gruppe 2 is an inspiration.
//Mark <-- Just north of SF too (Fairfax, Marin).
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As for the plastic nuts,Carl Nelson at La Jolla Independant has them
My wife has my nuts on a shelf.
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The 38-50" one. Boytcho (owner) will confirm at BimmerFest which one we need. I sent him the dimensions from 2002 BMW body chapter 41 (9.71 addition) for his DB.
Just tell him what car you have when you order.
S14 oil pan for 2002 from Massive
in Miscellaneous
Posted
Me too.
Sexy.
Thanks Lee!
//Mark