ol'_rusty

For Sale is my 1975 BMW 2002 Daily Driver Project. I no longer have a facility or the time to finish it and hope to find someone that does.

I bought this project a couple of years ago with the thought of turning it into an autocross/daily driver. I have done a lot mechanically, some with the interior, and little with the exterior. I have sizable stash of spare parts.

Please see my post and pic at: http://fresno.craigslist.org/cto/1944178338.html

Vehicle: 1975 2002 standard coupe

The red button on my hazard switch is non-functional. It will not stay in (off) position, sometimes I can get it to stay until I hit a bump and it pops back out causing my hazards to come on. Is there a cheaper solution than the OEM (costly) replacement?

Is it possible to use a regular on/off switch?

Also, what is the most economical flasher relay replacement?

Thanks for the input.

Dumped 6 FEET of snow up here last week in the southern Sierra Nevada...finally back to business here after days of shoveling and a week without power. Life is good.

...snow tires and chains, a good investment.

1975 BMW non-ti

I was looking inspecting the ol' machine a while back and to my dismay saw a rust hole developing in the a-pillar. Any thoughts as to what may have caused this? Is this fixable, and if yes, what would be the procedure? That is, weld in new metal or replace with a new section of a-pillar from a donor? Once the rotted metal is removed I expect there to be a 1/2"x2" hole.

OR

Should I ditch this ol' bird?

Can someone tell me what the three silver relays are responsible for? They are located in the engine compartment, toward the front driver's side. This is a 1975 2002.

Also, is there a list available for all the relays that I should replace after 30 plus years?

Thanks.

working 4spd pulled for 5spd swap. includes newish clutch. may be willing to deliver in sf area. call 207.939.9039.

also have stock solex carb for the taking

nate.

It has the a water choke. Also, I should mention that it has probably never been rebuild and needs one.

Interested in adding more weight to your wallet while saving weight with a hollow bar? Sell it to me...n8hebert at gmail dot com.

I need to free up some space in the car port. I have a 4spd Getrag from a 1975 with 180,000mi on it, pressure plate (used), clutch (lightly used ~1,000mi), and a slave cylinder (lightly used ~1,000mi).

The 4spd works good for 180,000mi, but before I did the 5spd swap was noticing a seldom "pop-out" of 2nd gear. Otherwise A-OK.

Pick-up and possible local delivery available for gas $.

$60, worth the clutch and slave cylinder alone.

Anyone want/need an old 2bbl solex off a stock 1975 '02? I'd be willing to part with it for reimbursement of the S&H.

BadAss.

Does anyone have pics of an '02 with tubular bumpers, about the diameter of those seen on many jeeps? Custom or otherwise. Anyone?

Thanks.

I have read the BayArea02 steering wheel tutorial, but have further questions about the round plastic steering wheel hub cover. How does it mount to the steering wheel? or does it just float about between the wheel and the foam column surround? I was delirious as I removed it hastily in the hot valley heat.

Furthermore, I am curious if anyone knows of a universal accordion style rubber collar/column cover that would replace the plastic one.

Thanks...

Do I need a special horn ring adapter or do I remove the current one (from the 320 wheel) held in place by 3 rubber grommets? By doing so, will the original spring loaded horn contact fit in place where the grommet holes are? Thanks.

...On another note, how do people selling these steering wheels ask so much, I was at the junk yard the other day and there must have been at least 4 others sitting in the yard...

The paint on my roof had cracked/scaled down to metal creating a spider web looking pattern of rust. My hope is to do a nice paint job in the near future, but for now I feel the need to address the problem and plan to throw on some rattle can until then. I stripped the paint, and have been using a flap disc to take of what remained. However, the rust has stained the metal so the spider web like appearance is still visible. The wire wheel is not doing the trick and the flap disc does not remove it too well.

What should I do? Do I need to get the rust staining off before paint? Should I use a heavier grit paper and take off more metal? Is there a polish I can use to rub the staining out?

Thanks for the advice...

The mechanism (cable? clip?) that allow the Recaro seats to fold forward for rear seat access popped the other day on my driver's side seat. The external lever is still intact, so it was something internally. Do I need to pull the seat completely apart to fix this or is there a way to do it without too much disassembly? Is this a common part failure? If so, what part is it? This is my daily driver so it would be nice to have everything I need before I start pulling things apart.

Thanks.

I notice that your steering wheel is not '02 stock....what is it, what did it come from, and how did you adapt it???

Thanks much.

One light, four wires; any idea how to tie this in with the current brake light system, other than by trial and error? Brown (ground), grn/red, and grn/black x 2.

My rolling project fully loaded for travel to the southern Sierra for my summer job.

Like everyone else suggests, buy or borrow an oil pressure gauge and hook it into the oil switch port. If the oil pressure is fine and the pressure switch new its probably the wire from the switch to the light. The light works on a switch that grounds the circuit when there is not enough pressure in the system to hold the spring loaded ball or whatever up. This was/is the problem I have experienced. Replace the wire and clean the circuit board in the gauge cluster...

Futhermore, you could replace the switch with a oil gauge mounted in the center console. 80's VW rabbits/golfs came equipted with VDO gauges, now the sets can be found at junk yards.

If you don't like/have any yards nearby I might have a trio I could sell.

Good luck, hope its the circuit for your sake.

What is the width of the wheel you are running...13 x ?.?"

Thanks for the input.

While there, you should tell them their customer service over the phone and online needs work.

Major bummer. Glad no one was hurt, aside from feelings. Sounds like you have a great lead on a replacement though.

After hearing this I will certainly be pulling the 3rd brake light off the shelf and get it in the car sooner rather than later.

I am VERY curious what the other driver's insurance companies will be willing to pay out for your classic BMWs. Please post. Hopefully they don't give you too much of a headache or runaround.

Keep your spirits up and stay vigilant.

Thanks much, can't wait to install the kit!

I like to drive aggressively when the roads permit.

I anticipate purchasing the Sumitomo 60 series HTR200s, but have a few questions about width. The maximum tire width suggested is the 205. I have 13 x 5.5 inch wheels. Would there be any realized benefit to going with one step smaller (195s) than the max. recommended.

I am not concerned about parallel parking, just going forward and the maximum performance I can squeeze out of this vehicle on the small budget I have.

Additionally, is it possible to have a slight hop taken out of an alloy wheel? I will eventually get around to checking with Wheel Techniques in San Jose but thought I'd ask if anyone has experience with this. I really like the wheels, but can't afford to break the bank for them.

Thanks for the input everyone!

Is there a crush washer like the one found in rear differentials?