mickth

Thanks everyone. I've found one that is a DGV-5A ????? According to the weber site, it just means manual choke.

Thank you. Isn't there a designation that has something to do with the orientation of the linkage? Like clockwise vs. counter clockwise rotation? Maybe not.

So, I am thinking about converting from the solex to the weber. I know the 32/36 DGAV is what I need. What about the exact DGAV? There are other numbers after the DGAV. Which numbers would I need?

So, it's been a few months since I took apart the pedal box assembly to my 76 Automatic. I've sanded it down, repainted it, grease pivot points, new bushings/springs. I had a question about the arm that is on the outside of the box. Based on the diagram, it looks like the elbow points back towards the pedal box. Right? Then, is there anywhere that shows the angle of the arm, in relationship to the accelerator shaft (the one that the gas pedal gets attached to)? Like if the accelerator shaft was straight up at 12:00 oclock, would the arm on the outside of the box be at 4:00 oclock?

Mick

Thanks! That looks awesome! I should have taken some before photos.

So, I have the pedal box off of the car now (man, I don't wish that task on anyone!). I'll clean it up, replace the bushings and springs, and lubricate the areas needed. One of the casualties in the process was the outer rubber insulation cover. It was very brittle. My guess is, this box has never been worked on. Anyway, is this insulation cover vital? Do people put them back on? There is also a small rectangular opening on the box. This one had some sort of tape on it. Is that normal? Or is there a rubber gasket that should be there, in addition to the outer insulation? I'm not looking forward to putting this back together. But, once it's done, it's done. The next thing on the list is to deal with a severe low idle issue while cold. Once it warms up it's fine, but when it's cold, it idles so low that it dies.

Thanks. It's a 76. Yes, I like the PO choice in wiring connection..... the 102nd use for duct tape. lol....

Mick

Hello,

As you can see, I need to re-wire the license plate lights. This is next on my list. I'm not sure what was once connected. I'm guessing that B and C should be connected. I'm thinking that maybe A and D were once connected, only because they both have black electricians tape on each end. I'm not sure what E should be connected to, and, the area I have circled is all shaved off, exposing wiring. So one question I have is, can I buy just a small wiring harness that replaces the trunk wiring somewhere? If not, is there somewhere that has the diagram of this somewhere? Also, one of the license plate lights is pretty cracked, and I'm wondering if they are left/rights? Or are they universal?

Mick

Thanks everyone. So, the directions I downloaded refer to a manual car. Mine is an automatic. Is there anything easier or harder to deal with? Also, isn't there a gasket between the box and the body? I took out a few of the 13mm bolts, and there is a rubbery substance around the threads. I'm guessing it is there just to seal out water. It's not locktight or anything, as it is soft and gooey. Any idea what this is?

Mick

So, I found the instructions here on how to remove the pedal box assembly. There are some parts listed as a 'kit' that would be needed:

35 41 1 108 237 Throttle bushings x 2

35 41 1 108 676 Throttle lever spring

35 41 4 440 122 Gas pedal roller

35 31 4 640 116 Clutch pedal to Master bushings x 2

35 31 4 041 718 Clutch pedal pivot bushing

35 21 4 045 707 Brake pedal pivot bushing

35 31 1 104 531 Clutch pedal return spring

35 21 1 102 383 Brake pedal Return spring

35 21 4 440 113 Clutch and brake pedal pads x 2

I may or may not need all of them, but can you buy these somewhere as a "kit"? Or do I go to the bmw dealer, and buy the above part numbers individually?

is the car a 76 Fjord? is it in the Bay Area?

No, it is in Oregon

http://eugene.craigslist.org/cto/896260907.html

He came down on the price though. $700 The passenger fender is red, and has a few dings in it. But, there isn't a bit of rust anywhere, so that's good. I figure it's a good base for a project.

Thank you so much! I'll print, and do some homework!

Hello,

I just bought a 76 2002. Pretty good shape. Not a show car by any means. But, no rust. That's a good start. Here are a few things that need fixing:

The accelerator pedal seems very sticky. Not sure why.

The automatic gear indicator is missing

The side blinkers aren't working

Starts a little slow.

Very hard to steer.

Anyway, these are the biggies.

Mick

Hello,

I Just bought a 76 2002. It is an automatic, and missing the gear indicator. I'm not sure what all I need to replace, but maybe you have one left over from a 5 speed conversion?