R1190

This is for those of you that also love 2 wheels jewels. There is a small and beautiful museum of classic motorbikes in Spain called Museu Moto Bassella. It is located in the middle of nowhere just in a service area of a small road. You can hardly find it in a tourist guide. But believe me if I say it is one of the best museums I have ever visited.

There is a 2002 machine in the museum, but as you can now expect it is not a BMW. In fact it is neither a car, it is a motorbike. It is a Derbi 2002. In the 70s our market had a powerful motorbike industry and brands like Bultaco, Montesa, Ossa and Derbi were worldwide known for their good off-road products. However those brands also offered road motorbikes, mainly for the very much protected Spanish market. In the 70s Derbi put in the market a two strokes/two cylinders (that could be the reason of its name: 2002) bike that was the top reference in our market.

Today all those brands are part of the history but you can still enjoy a good view of them in this nice museum. I hope not to have disturbed you with this off topic that brings me back to the age when I was a teenager.

Regards: Pepe de la Parte.

Bassella Motorcycle Museum

Carretera C-14 km. 134

25289 Bassella (Lleida) - Spain

Tel: +34 973 462 731

GPS: 42.005896, 1.293774

I think there is nothing to worry about. Classic temp. gauges display actual temperature withing a range from cold (blue zone) to hot (red zone). Everything between blue and red (white) is ok.

Many customers used to pay to much attention to the temperature indication and they used to complain about driving the car at high temperature. Car brands have solved this problem by two ways. First, modern cars govern the temp gauge trough the body controller and it does not display actual temperature of the engine. The gauge rises from blue zone to the middle displaying actual temperatures. Once in the middle of its stroke, it remains at that level no matter the actual temperature. If the engine temp rises to certain level, the the body controller moves the temp gauge to the red zone. Have you ever wondered why modern car gauges point to three no matter the external temperature?

Second way they have solved the problem, the temp gauge has been deleted in many modern car. What a pitty.

For the good or the bad, our 02s are not governed by chips.

Regards from Spain, Pepe de la Parte.

Heres a picture of where it settles out at stops. Once I get going it cools right off. Is that normal? It seems a little high, but if everyones car does that I will stop whining

Pepe,

El mango de madera es un toque de elegancia....me estás dando ideas!

saludos.

La verdad, era un destornillador viejo de mi padre al que le corté el mango para otros usos. Con lo que quedó hice la herramienta.

Me alegra ver una respuesta en castellano. Gracias. Saludos: Pepe (España)

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To be honest, it was an old screwdriver of my father. I cut the handle for certain aplication. Then I took the handicaped screwdriver to make the KF tool.

Good to see some words in my mother tongue. Thanks. Pepe, Spain.

Two DIY tools for adjusting the KF. I hope it helps.

Regards from Spain, Pepe.

I fully agree with jimk. In a CD system dwell angle is not a parameter.

For those of you that still keep points, condenser and coil in the original way, here you can find some tips about dwell angle:

1- Dwell angle is the angle during which the points are closed. It can be expressed in degrees or percentage. The dwell angle of a set of points that never close is 0 degrees or 0%. The dwell angle of a set of points that never open is 90 degrees or 100%. Values that are given in degrees can be converted in percentage just dividing by 0.9. Perhaps the values indicated by pilotnbr1 correspond to the same values but with different units (59-65 degrees --> 66-69 %).

2- A dwell multimeter is needed to set the dwell angle. Connect the negative wire of the dwell multimeter to ground and the positive wire to the wire that connects the coil with the points. If you cannot identify the wire that connects the coil with the points then choose one of the two wires of the coil. If the dwell multimeter display shows a dwell angle it means you have selected the right wire. If not, just connect the positive wire of the dwell multimeter to the other wire of the coil.

3- Dwell multimeter is a good invest and not necessarily expensive. Both analogic or digital dwell multimeters are ok to adjust the dwell angle however the accuracy of the digital one cannot compete with the taste of the analogic multimeter. The decision is up to you.

4- Check the dwell angle from time to time. If the value is out of the correct range, adjust it. That way you will prevent innecessary headaches.

Regards from Spain, Pepe.

DIY:

Tool set to adjust the intake throttle and the injection pump of the Tii and Turbo models. You need a couple of drill bits of 4 mm and 5 mm diameters, a screwdriver, a roll of electric tape and cold welding glue.

- Tool to lock the throttle: Roll up a piece of electric tape around the sharped end of the 4 mm drill. Done.

- Tool to lock the injection pump lever: Cut a piece of 35 mm of the 5 mm drill bit (cylindrical end). With the cold welding glue, paste the cylinder of 35 x 5 mm to the screwdriver in an angle of 90º. Done.

Pepe de la Parte

The LSD differential of the 2002 is a non preloaded type. That means it only has the LSD effect when is being driven. So the static test consisting in raising the rear axle and testing the diff by turning one wheel by hand will always tell you that is a non LSD type. The only way to check if the diff is a LSD type is by unbolting the back cover of the diff and having a look to the inside. The differential of the picture is a LSD type one.

However, as far as I know, the 320i's differential is preloaded. No matter the % ratio of the diff, you should feel that you cannot turn by hand the wheels in oposite directions. Otherwise is an open differential.

Regards from Spain, Pepe de la Parte.

I installed a 79/88C thermocontact at the bottom of the rad and it works fine. It switches on when the water gauge is pointing to 2 and switches off when the gauge is pointing to 3. The fan only runs at low speeds.

Regards from Spain, Pepe de la Parte

thats weird, my 74' automatic is 4280905. i thought all turbo had unique vin first numbers.

nice turbo btw. it will end up high cash

Oppps! I meant 4290001. Sorry.

You are still on time to bid. Turbo 4280001 is being sold in ebay.co.uk. Good luck if you bid for it.

Regards from Spain: Pepe de la Parte.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BMW-2002-TURBO-CHASSIS-NUMBER-ONE-/300550945694?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item45fa3b7b9e

Yes, I admit that Spain is very far away from your country. However, Internet allows me to share with you all some good news online. My car is in the front page of the most relevant classic car magazine in Spain: Motor Clásico. It happens once in life!

In its edition of May, MC compares the 02 obruT and the M3 (e30). Well, no need to mention which one I would choose...

Regards from Spain, Pepe de la Parte.

DIY tools are fun and useful. Here is my contribution.

Tool 1: A set of tools to adjust the intake throttle and the injection pump of the Tii and Turbo models. You need a couple of drill bits of 4 mm and 5 mm diameters, a screwdriver, a roll of electric tape and cold welding glue.

- Tool to lock the throttle: Roll up a piece of electric tape around the sharped end of the 4 mm drill. Done.

- Tool to lock the injection pump lever: Cut a piece of 35 mm of the 5 mm drill bit (cylindrical end). With the cold welding glue, paste the cylinder of 35 x 5 mm to the screwdriver in an angle of 90º. Done.

Tool 2: A useful screwdriver modified to put the rear brake shoe springs in place. Only a screwdriver is neded. Heat the screwdriver and bend it in an angle of 30º as showed in the picture. File a notch as showed in the picture. Done.

Pepe de la Parte

I'm sorry I screwed up, when I got back to the shop I checked and the Turbos use the 1847V pertronix. I used the other unit in my older 02.

Thanks for your help. Anyway I have sent a request to pertronix.com and they should confirm the correct one.

A couple of questions regarding your Turbo. Mine has a red coil with a resistant wire (see pictures). Does your Turbo have the same configuration? Did you replace the coil when installing the Pertronix kit? Did you modify the resistant wire?

By the way, it is funny to see that the coil of my Turbo was made in Spain. I do not know if it has ever been replaced (I have not replaced it and I am the first Spanish owner of my car), but I prefer to think that the world is plenty of 02s with Spanish coils.

Regards from Spain, Pepe de la Parte

I am considering upgrading the distributor of my Turbo with a Pertronix ignition but I do not know what the right kit for my car is. Distributor no. is 0231180014 and the points are the one you can see in the photo. I have searched in the forum and faq section but there is no any reference to 0231180014 distributor.

Do you know which Pertronix # is ok for that distributor? Has anybody upgraded a Turbo with Pertronix? Is it worth the upgrade?

Thanks, Pepe de la Parte.

Some pics about my Blaupunkt radio. It is a home-made radio frame. I hope it helps.

Regards, Pepe.

As to where to locate the thermal switch as i see it you put it next to the radiator return. That is the coolest point in the coolant system. Putting the switch on the coolant return right as it exits the head would be the hottest point and a better indication of the heat load your engine is putting out.

have fun

You should put the thermoswitch where it goes on the car it is from, most manufacturers use the bottom of the radiator. If you use the top for a sensor made for the bottom, the fan will come on too soon. The reason most use the bottom is because that is how you tell if the airflow through the radiator needs a boost. Driving on the highway, no fan is needed (already have more airflow than the fan can give) but the top mounted sensor will turn the fan on anyway based on engine temperature. Mounted in the radiator outlet will cause the fan to come on when airflow is insufficient.

I use a 185 deg F switch from Spaal in the lower hose. This switch also does not require a relay, it drives the fan directly. On the track or the highway, the fan does not come on. My sender for the water temp is in the engine outlet and has not shown over 190.

I have read threads defending to place the thermal switch both at upper hose or at lower hose. I have chosen to install the thermo switch at the lower hose because I wanted to control the temperature of the water entering the engine. That way the thermo switch will detect when the radiator is not providing enough cooling itself and switch on the fan to provide more.

Anyway I do respect opinions that consider the upper hose is the best location. By installing the switch at the upper hose it will detect when the water going out the engine is needing more cooling in the radiator. One thing should be clear: thermo switches for upper and lower locations are not the same. It is important to find the right sensor either for upper or lower location that operates the fan only at low vehicle speeds.

Regards, Pepe.

Coool writeup. does anybody know the part number for the Bosch relays that already have the diode. Would be good info to add to this thread.

A relay with an integrated diode would be the best option, but do not waste too much time searching for it. It is relatively easy to jump a diode between terminals 85/86 of a standard relay. That is what I have done.

Regards, Pepe.

Some tips for people that are thinking about installing an electric fan, specially for those of you living in the EU area.

1. Electric fan from an old Peugeot 505 gas fits perfectly in our cars. The retrofitted car is a Turbo from 1974.

2. Thermo switch FAE P/N 37340, 88/79ºC (190/175F), 22x1,5 thread, from a Peugeot 205 MY83/87 works fine.

3. Thermo switch can be installed by your local radiator specialist for some $$. I have installed it close to the lower hose of the radiator.

4. Wiring diagram available at Electric Fan Wiring is very useful. Thanks to the author.

5. Fan relay can be easily installed next to the other relays.

6. How to fix the fan to the radiator? Easy and cheap: nylon strap + washer + foam pad + bottle cap + head of nylon strap can do this job.

7. It is winter time now, so I have to wait till summer season to check that everything works fine.

Regards from Europe, Pepe de la Parte.

My experience. When I bought my Turbo, it was unable to be driven above 4.000 rpm. Additionally, the fuel pump was very noisy and leaking. I replaced the fuel pump for a 5 series one (same than yours) and the inline gas filter. Situation was even worse to the extend than the car stopped in the midle of the road.

Then I replaced the nylon filter inside the tank and everything was fine for 10,000 km. Then noises appeared again and the car had some hesitations above 4.000 rpm. That time I mesured the fuel flow. Fuel flow was 1 liter per minute. I replaced one more time both the in tank and inline filters. Once they were replaced the fuel flow was 2 liters per minute. In both cases I mesured the flow at the tank return hose.

One more time the car run ok, but after 500 km hesitations above 4,000 rpm came back. That time I replaced the fuel pump with a pump scrapped from a e21. After 5,000 km everything seems to go well.

Regards from Spain: Pepe de la Parte.

what do you use the car for? street? track? if for street, you don't want a 75% lock up lsd. it will be a bitch to turn, park, etc. if for track only and you know how to handle that much lock up, go for it. more lock up is not always better with diff's.

i have one of daves 3 clutch 50% diffs. great on track, a little extra effort on street.

Thanks for your wise advises. I use the car for regularity rallies. I am going to install two extra clutchs and check results. If it is very hard driving, I will eliminate one clucth and so on.

By the way. Ramps of this diff are 30 degrees. Does anybody know what ramp angles of original 75% 2002 diff were?

Thanks, Pepe de la Parte.

Hi everyone,

This is Pepe de la Parte, a BMW enthusiast that lives in Spain. I own a BMW 2002 Turbo and two e28s: M5 and 528i Sport. There is no need to mention that the one that I like the most is the 02 Turbo. You can see two of my cars at http://www.bmwmregistry.com/detail.php?id=7898 and http://www.bmwmregistry.com/detail.php?id=5884. It is a long time I am suscribed to this forum but it is the first time I post on it. Sorry for being late, but better late than never.

I have said that my 02 Turbo is the car that I like the most, but it is also the car that requires more attention. I participate with this car in regularity rallys in Spain and Portugal. 6 months racing and 6 months preparing the car for racing. During this winter season I have decided to raise the front spoiler a little bit since I cannot stand to sweep roads for free. The second major action is being to fix the LSD because the LSD effect is gone.

I have read many posts about LSD differentials. Most of them have been very useful. However there is one question I have not had any answer in previous posts of LSD differentials. Here is my question.

The LSD of my car is the 40% ZF that was standard equipment for Turbos. I have been said that upgrading LSD from 40% to 75% is more than adding one frintion disc. However, the temptation of just adding friction discs is so simple that I would like to know if you have succumbed to temptation. What has the result been? As easy as it looks? Reliable?

Many thanks for your help. Pepe.