nobrakese28

Thanks for the advice/input. 

I actually received the shock mounts already, comment 7 was more of a joke  .

Also I just realized, that you can't see the blue shock cover in the front.  It is the famous Bilstein blue.  Hoping they are sports or HD's. 

-Marco

Put the car and started looking around, had a few questions.

1) Are these E21 calipers?

2) Are the front shocks Bilstein sports or HDs? Do they make a standard Bilstein cartridge for 1600/2002?

3) Rate my rust please!

4) The rear differential is very clunky when I spin the rear wheels. Could have no oil.  Do I have to swap the complete rear subframe to upgrade to the shortneck differential?

5) Is the weber carb original?

6) Is the rubber plug on the carb meant to connect to the vacuum advance? (currently open to the atmosphere)

7) Would you agree the shock tower mount is going to explode?

Yeah, she really is fantastic. Thanks for the pointer on engine ID.

How's it going guys/gals. 

Just happen to be flipping through Craigslist L.A. when I found an ad for 1969 1600.  From the photos I can tell it had a bad respray, but the car looked fairly straight and orignal. I decided to go check it out with my wife.

Once we arrived I realized the 1600 had a bit more rust than I expected.  But the shock towers, framerails, and floors were solid. The doors and rear tray have not been cut for speakers so that was a plus.  Doors closed nicely. 

She has rust on the rockers, lower front and rear windshield, quarter panel, and of course the spare tire well is swiss cheesed.  The front hood was dented decently. 
 

The seats and door panels had been reupholstered, not very well.  The dash is very sun burned. 

But the car started right up, I think its been converetd to 2.0ltr.  Drove well, definitely needs some brake bleeding and shock tower mounts. 

The good:

Great condition front and rear bumpers

Euro turn signals

All eletrical works, even the fan blower!

Clean title

Strong 2.0ltr

Black/Yellow plates

All gages functioning (except clock), hey thats what Iphones are for anyways....

Seller was asking $4800, I paid $2500.

My wife loves the car, it has so much personality.  I think with some love and a few hundred bucks this car will make a great daily driver. I think the first upgrade will be the wheels! The current wheels are terrible!

But we are considering selling it in the near future to fund our 2800CS dream.

-Marco

1971 Golf 2002. Blue plates. Numbers matching. Nearly rust free (99%).  Original hub caps. Got it running same day. 

Needed brake, interior, and engine work.  

Picture is post suspension work.  

$1500.00

The output flange can be easily swapped out. One large nut.

I have a good shifting 5spd but it has a cracked shifter seal boss. I'd sell it for 150. You would need a tranny shop to swap the rear covers.

Cleaned pistons, chased head scew threads, and surfaced the top of the block.  I also replaced the motor mounts, the old ones were dead!

Blasted and painted the exhaust manfiold along with helicoiling and plugging the smog ports.  Just waitng on my order of parts to install the cylinder head (should arrive today).   With a little luck she might start today!

I sure am.

So I stopped by Ireland Engineering and well....picked up a few things. I walked out with an aluminum radiator, 292 billet camshaft, Ireland heavy duty valve springs, updated valves stem seals, and some HD motor mounts.

After sand blasting all the carbon off the head I spent about an hour cleaning the head, I then took it the car wash to blast it with degreaser  and water.  I then lapped the valves and surfaced the head with a surfacing stone. I cleaned it then returnded to the car wash for one last blasting. 

I checked the head for flatness.  Looks good.  I used a suface beam and flash light. 

I then assembled the head. 

Very nice!

Thanks!

I got the S-Drives on, they feel great.  I think the rubbing problem is just about gone. I am waiting for the spring pads to come in still. 

I decided to remove the head to figure out the oil bruning problem once and for all.  I did a quick compression check before removing the head.  The numbers were rouglhy 155-125-155-160.  Once Iemoved the head, the oil burning was obvious.  The valve stem seals were completely dried and broken.  The cylinder number two port was filled with carbon. It looked as if a piece of charcoal was pounded into the port. I am near certain it contributed to the lower compression reading on number 2 cylinder. 

The valve guides felt nice and tight.  So I will likely just lap the valves and clean everything up as best I can. 

I disasembled the head and I am glasss bead blasting the valves and cylinder head today. I hope to have her running again by the weekend. 

I make opt to replace the radiator with an IE aluminum and possibly run a IE short tube header. I hope they are in stock.

MORE UPDATES:

I have ordered some Yoko S drives in 195/50R15 to wraps the Rotas in, hopefully this helps with the rubbing. I also had the fenders rolled, they came out great!

The tires should be here sometime this week.  Also placed an order for front spring pads (give it a little bump up), windshield seals, emblem, and a head gasket kit. 

I hope its inly the valve stem seals that are cooked, not the rings. 

Hahahaha.  I dropped the 02 off at the body shop to have the fenders properly rolled. She will be ready tomorrow afternoon.  

-M

Good thing the tires were free

I think I will start with getting the fenders rolled.  I will drive over to my body shop to get a quote tomorrow.  

I will then try to bump the car up a tiny bit.  But I love the way she looks right now, but the springs pads the front are a must.  

Hello,

I am in the process of trying to fit some Rota RB's on my 2002 but I am currently having rubbing issues.  The rears definitely need to be rolled.  I plan on having a body shop or my father roll them.  I am concerned with the front. Do you think they will clear if I just raise the car? Can the fronts even be rolled?

I took a look at the front struts, they do not have any spring pads.  

As for the rear, they have both pads along with the thickest factory shim.  I know the rear is easy to raise, I was thinking of adding some hard rubber pads.  

I really like the look of the wheels.  

Wheels: 15X7 ET25
Tires: 195/55R14

Suspension: Ireland Springs (not sure which ones)

Fixed camber plates

FRONT

REAR

Not sure what trades you're looking for but this is what I have to offer let me know if you're interested. They're called "Super Lights", made in Japan 14x6 +30 two new tires and two need to be replaced. Straight wheels very minimum rash.

I like the wheels. But I would need some cash on top of the trade. The Yokohamas are a bit pricier than the Falkens.

For me to trade the wheels/tires would have to be ready to go (good tires, brand and life) or a pretty/rare wheel.

Thy are silver. I will post pics once they get a nice cleaning. I'm located off the 605 and 60.

UPDATE:

I got the car running. The transmission shifts pretty nicely. I worked all of Saturday to get her moving. I installed all new hoses, water pump, and installed the 2BL carb. Also installed and timed the Petronix distributor.

The only problem is the ET25 Rotas are rubbing. I am going to switch over to the E30 Baskets.

I also installed the Recaros using the stock sliders and Ardavark brackets. As for the seat belts. I pulled some retracting/pre-tensioning Klippans from an old (early70's) Mercedes Benz sedan. They should work nicely.

My only concern is the smoking. She may need an engine rebuild or valve job at a minimum. M42 swap may be coming a whole lot earlier than expected.

Hello,

I have decided to sell (or trade) my Rota RBs. I want a more classic original look.

The wheels are good overall condition. Rash is minimal. They are 100% straight and true. The Yokohama's were mounted/balanced last week. They are ready to rock.

The Yokohama's are the AVID Envigor in 195/55 R15. I believe Tirerack is getting $384.00 for these.

The wheels specifications are as follows:

15X7

ET25

Hubcentric to E21 (all BMW's)

I will post better photos when i get home, here are the wheels on the car. They will likely require some light fender rolling.

Asking $650.00

Marco 323 712 8359

I don't think the S Drives come in 195/60, I saw them in 185

/55 14 though.

Thanks for all of the photos!

I love the look.

Looks like I will be ordering some 195/60R14's this week.

Any recomended brands?

I think my car is a lower though. Maybe it has Stage 2 springs. I may need to replace the spring pads or raise the car with shims.

Thanks for the replies. Does any one have pictures they could share of Basket Weaves on a roundie?

-Thanks

Hello,

Just got my 1971 02 rolling. But I am having issues with the currently installed wheels rubbing.

The car is running Rotas (15X7, ET25) with 195/50R15's all around.

I have a set of 14X6.5 ET30 factory wheels and I actually prefer the look of the basket weaves. Is 195/60R14 the correct size?

The car is lowered on Ireland springs and has the IE front fixed camber plates.

Thanks,

Marco

Thanks for the input. I cleaned the breather.

I got the transmission/shifter/driveshaft/slave cylinder all in as well as the master cylinder.

I used the 5spd transmission mount from Classic Daily, it worked really nicely.

I also started removing all of the old carpet as well as scraping all the old foam that was disintegrating.

I also removed the battery tray and install the rear brace/battery holder. I had mixed feelings about drilling. But it can always be repaired to original.

I used an E36 sedan battery cable that I picked up. It was just long enough (had a little extra slack).

Here are some photos. I have been trying to clean up the engine bay.

Honestly. A non-running 320i (late registration doesn't help) isnt really going to be worth much. Especially if the interior is worn down. It would have to go to the right owner. But being the additional work and parts (even if minor) that the car would need. Most people would opt for the 2002.

Even with the spares, I couldn't see someone paying more than $500-1000.

Not to mention they will also have to pay for it to be towed as AAA won't tow a non-currently registered car.

Hope it sells. I've been there before.

-Marco