ole1.6

I could move it back if it is not correct but I’ll keep archiving. Thanks. 

Jumping in this thread (pardon plz) because I’m getting ready to replace my tired signal switch and I noticed this one in the photo is on the right side of the column. My 67 1600 is on the left side. Did one of the po move it or is it at all correct? Thanks,

eric

Chris, Just thinking about you the other day and will definitely take you up un visit and catch up. I have been trying to remember your location to no avail, maybe PM me your address. I'll bring by old and new units

Steve, yes my vin is 1523990 and it is 12v and 6 fuse box.

Odd side note: I have been looking for dash lights that indicate charge/no charge and only see oil light. I can't remember ever seeing a charge light...

Thanks,

Eric

After years of adding newer electrical items to this old girl, I am finally getting to updating the generator. I had a bolt vibrate free on the old unit and it damaged the generator physically and it seemed like it was no longer charging. The time was right to accommodate the added electric radiator fan and stereo amplifiers. I have been perusing the archives and have seen notes and mentions that only 6v 1600 had Generators so it is in line with many of the electrical inconsistencies on my car . My car is a 12v and the harness is the early 6v type.

I determined the old was not working by starting the car and removing the battery cable while it was running. The result was the car did not run.... 

First question, is that a valid test to determine if you are charging? Second is I am using only 1 wire currently with the new Alternator and no external regulator is connected?  Back to first question, now with the Alternator and the car running, when I remove the battery cable the car stops also.

I will post more photos since its like car guy porn  especially of the new installation.

Thanks for any input.

Eric 

I have located the part. Thanks for checking.

Thank you. I will keep checking in.

I am in dire need of a 3 hole 10 spline trans!!!

Thanks

Eric

Thanks Chris,

Mesa and John Edwards were a big help. It seems the older this car gets, the less I know about it. I ended up with a '65 pressing of the head and it will work. John opened up the intake. I had to grind off the old post that the gear style tensioner mounted on. The older head does not have the oiler bar on top so I can only hope it does not have an affect.

After the ceramic burns off is there some way to recoat them? I have seen wraps on headers before. Is that a functional solution?

I think $1600 will be correct in the end

Spare (and bad) 118 from 1990 = $250, replacement (but different) from last month = $300, pressure test x 5 (so far) = $250, Work on actual good head = $?$?$?

Is a 118 and a 121 interchangable?

Why is a 118 stamped '65 so diferent from a 118 stamped '68?

I am about done with this hostage situation at my machine shop. It has made me consider parting the old girl out. I have now paid to pressure test 5 different heads at $50 a pop and am sitting on a '65 118 that I cannot tell if it will work. Intake valves and seating area are smaller than the other 3 later 118 heads.

Sorry for the venting but this is the opposite of "Joy"...

Interview most interesting...

Yes to both issues + 2 front resonator bustin' loose. I loved the sound too. Running the Ireland SS now. That was a nice change! The Ansa is just laying around the garage now.

Chris, Contemporary Auto Machine on Gothard. The shop on Euclid would not repair. Still working on solution...

Thanks Chris,

We were both scratching our heads! Maybe from an 1800? It is a 1965 cast mark a 40 intake valve.

Thanks. I will keep posting updates. The stamp on the head says 65. Meanwhile I'm trying to have the crack repaired on the 68.

Isn't the 118 head for 1600?

Seems like a dumb question but after this long into my valve job I had better ask the basic Qs.

Start with '67 1600 and a burnt exhaust valve. Took my spare (not too many people laughing) to the machine shop and they found a crack up top by the casting marks and they will not fix it....

fast forward 2 heads later (yes I am filthy rich and I can afford to have um all pressure tested ect ect...) and my current option is not warped or cracked but it is different than the other 118 heads. Smaller intake valves and different cam. Strange timing gear tensioner flopping around too.

Bottom line will it work?

I'm going to do extensive parts search to see what I got but I think it is from an older smaller engine.

Thanks for your thoughts and no I'm not really rich because my hemi is eating me out of house and home!!

That is what I presumed, but we all know how this goes. It will be the replacement if needed in the future. My nephew has a 320 for sale for a grand and I was thinking about all the upgrades the would fit on my car. Love to do it but can't afford to.

Thanks for the reply's

The radiator shop was able to fix the 2 leaks. Now on to the reason why it's out of the car...head/valve issues.

Part II coming up.

and I wonder has anyone fitted a 320 to and old 1600?

Thanks Eric

Thanks! I wasn't getting my notification and just got your VALUED advice.

I'm attaching a pic...

Semi close by. I will get the head back soon to take photos...

Thanks, will post pics

I have a spare head for my 1600 that I have to install but the machine shop has said it has a crack in the water gallery. Is it OK to have it repired and where would I find someone to do it? I'm in southern california area.

Thanks for input you can provide.

My experience is the early 1600 like mine are different than the later models on the jamb and the door latch. I am still looking for the elusive part I have attached.[/img]