Rigmaster

Looking for some stock size (230mm) 2002 rear brake shoes in most any performance or race compound.  Something like Porterfield R4/R4s or Carbotech or similar.   I know I can order new from Porterfield or several other places, just looking to see if anyone has anything stashed away they want to get rid of before I order new.

Thanks!

Bret

Please feel free to contact me if you have any questions.

My email is

btownelectronics@gmail.com

http://my.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?MyEbayBeta&CurrentPage=MyeBayNextSelling&ssPageName=STRK:ME:LNLK:MESEX[/url]

your link isn't working- what's your Ebay ID?

as the subject says- I need some bushings for a 19mm rear swaybar on my 2002 race car. I urgently need one, but will buy two.

New or good used. OR, if anyone knows a good source/vendor, that info would be appreciated too.

I saw a previous thread where someone recommended just buying a generic bushing from the auto parts store and trimming it to fit- I may do that as a last resort, but it'd be easier to just find the right piece.

Please reply here or email me

rigmaster1 AT hotmail DOT com

I need the rear sway bar bushings- sent you an email.

Thanks!

Bret

2002 4 speed. very good conditon without any issues. $500 obo. airpowerinc@earthlink.net

mileage? been rebuilt?? LOCATION???

Price seems really high for a run of the mill used 4 speed, but good luck!!

BL?....is that you?....we spoke several times over the years....Im sure you wont recall, ..its Joel rom NY....I was putting together an e30 track car and you helped me.

nice toy...kudos.

Hey Joel,

yep, it's me. This is the car I bought from the guy in CT, I think I emailed you about it when I first found it- but ended up buying it sight-unseen based on the seller's description, and luckily he gave a very honest description of the car.

Bret.

I have several in NC if you don't find any local.

Everything from something that needs to be refinished to a pristine spare that spent most of it's life in a spare tire well.

The M20 engine harness comes out of the car pretty easily (along with the engine). You should be able to unplug/disconnect everything and not need to cut anything. If it looks like you need to cut something, look again.

The ECU plug is part of the harness, it pushes thru the large round hole in the firewall. Other than that, you'll need to disconnect the 2 coil wires, the ground wire that bolts to the RF strut tower, the O2 sensor connector, the positive wires that bolt to the batter cable junction on the firewall and the main harness connector (C101) that's a big round twist connector mounted on the firewall. Might be a couple of others, but that's the best I can do off the top of my head.

Well, not really a vacation, but a fun weekend with NASA-SE at NCCAR (NC Center for Automotive Research). Ran my "new" 2002 ITB car in a DE and had a BLAST!

More pics here:

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v11/rigmaster/NCCAR%20Nov%202011/

A friend of mine towed this car about 2 years ago looking for the new owner. Anybody recognize it? Thanks

Mike

Um, yeah, that would be me. Bill Kraul delivered it from CT to my place in NC about 1 year ago (Nov 2010 IIRC).

What do you want to know about it??

I'm not really interested in selling, unless you have an outrageously high offer you want me to consider........

Esty- STFU, you make this board much more unpleasant than it should be.

stepping away from my normal polite & friendly personality....

FUCK YOU TOO DUDE

and to emoberg....i was interested or i wouldn't have asked you the question...which you crap'd on....like i said, your response says a lot about you as a seller

Dude, (or dudette, or whatever the hell you are)-

you've clearly got issues. No where did I say F You to you- I told you to Shut the F Up. My personal opinion of your shitty reply to an honest for sale ad, which is now completely crapped on.

No way in hell were you serious about buying this car, you're just trying to be a douchnozzle as usual. The whole "hey man, sounds like your car is a big POS and you don't know nearly as much about 2002's as I do" schtick must be your version of an e-penis.

You really are one of the very few shitty things about this board, and it's a shame.

Sorry to the OP for adding crap to the pile.

Ahhhhhhhhh!

No pics?

Send them to me and I'll be glad to add them to this thread.

EDIT: car looks great- GLWS.

Nice looking car, good luck with sale!

Esty- STFU, you make this board much more unpleasant than it should be.

Hard to tell if it's a "good deal" or not. I agree with most of the comments so far. The roll bar tube over the tunnel is extremely unusual- but maybe the seller's Ebay username ("fabperson") provides a clue.

It does look like a clean car in the pics, and even if the seller did most of the work on the car himself (i.e.- no labor cost), he's still probably not making any money at that price.

That being said, I wouldn't pay anything close to that price without going over the car very closely in person.

You need to ask yourself what the ultimate purpose of the car will be. If it's to run vintage, then it would probably be a fun car, but as others have mentioned, it will not be a class winner- not even close. If you're looking for a track toy or car to do driver's schools, etc, it would also be alot of fun. It's obviously not legal for SCCA ITB (big brakes, etc), but it could run in NASA and have some good competition depending on your location.

As point of reference, about a year ago I bought a 71 2002 that was built to SCCA ITB spec. It's not cosmetically nearly as nice as the car in this Ebay listing, but it's mechanically sound and a TON of fun. I paid spent ~$4600 including delivery for my car- and I am very pleased with my purchase. I don't plan on racing the car in SCCA, though I might run it in NASA some time in the next couple of years.

www.tirerack.com has lots of this type of info.

For most tire brands and sizes they will list the overall diameter, width, revs per mile, etc so you can compare actual measurements from tire to tire.

Does anyone know the maximum brake pad thickness that will fit the front calipers of a stock 71 2002 with new rotor (or close to it)?

IIRC, the pads I'm using now come in at ~0.570" and the pads I'm considering are ~0.700", so I think they might be too thick, and I don't have any to test fit.

I'm considering some pads that are the same profile as a 2002 front, but they were designed for a different car, and the thickness is a bit more than stock pads.

Pretty straightforward question, and I have good reason for asking, so if you're thinking of replying "just use stock pads", please don't.....

Thanks!!

Thanks for the info guys.

Marshall- I'm less concerned with sourcing front pads than finding decent rear shoes at a decent price- any suggestions there?

Also, what would you recommend as a replacement for hawk blue fronts? Only reason I'm running them now is because they came on the spares box with the car.

Thx, Bret

Anybody?

I'm at the track right now, and as fun as this car is to drive, I'll be needing new pads and shoes soon.

Can anyone recommend good sources for new Hawk pads and/or rear shoes with race compound linings??

Thanks!!

No heater core, no cold choke.

1) It takes 5 pumps of the gas pedal before cranking for the car to fire up. Once it starts and warms up, it runs fine but idles at 500 rpms. I'll play with the idle screw and see if I can't get it idling at 700 or so? Can I do anything about the 5 pumps thing?

Sweet looking car.

On #1, I think you may have answered your own question- without a choke it's gonna take some pumping of the gas pedal to get it to run and keep running.

I've got a '71 ITB 2002 also, not quite as pretty as yours, and mine does the same thing when starting cold. It also has no choke plate in the carb.

Looking for any unused or lightly used RACE compound brake pads + shoes for my '71 ITB prepped track car. Currently running Hawk Blue compound on the front and ???? on the rear.

Ideas, suggestions, etc also welcome.

I am aware of the big brake upgrade options for both front and rear, and I have most of the parts squirrelled away for this, but for now I'm sticking with stock size stuff.

Thanks!!

Bret

sort of depends on what you want to end up with.

Once the mechanical bits and glass are removed, the shell can be pretty easily cut with a corded sawzall and good metal-cutting blade.

Holy Crap, Blunt really WAS there!!!!!

I had hoped another voice of reason would chime in here, but they haven't.

So before this thread gets any more traction, I will.

This is not innovative or creative!

It is dangerous and STUPID!

THESE ARE BRAKE LIGHTS PEOPLE! WHAT DON'T YOU GET ABOUT THAT?

They must work reliably every time you apply your brakes.

Relying on $6 Chinese LED strings from ebay is like relying on a $6 parachute made of hefty bags and string! Foolish to do, quasi-criminal to promote to others!

These lights are of unknown origin, unknown wattage and Hr. rating.

There is no regulated power supply, no shock protection, no heat dissapation, no over-voltage protection, no under-voltage protection, no reverse polarity protection.

It's not a question of if these will fail, but when. I guarantee you they will.

It's unsafe to run these on a public street. Unsafe to carry a passenger in a car using these. Unsafe to the driver trailing you. And it puts your car and you in jeopardy.

I'm not selling taillights here or promoting our kit.

If you don't want to buy our kit, OK.

But, then learn how to do it right or just stay with the OEM incandescents.

Don't be DUMB!

Cheers!

Your point is well taken, and I think understood by 99% of the folks who would undertake this modification........but........

These are 30-40 year old taillights with sketchy connections and sketchy wiring, I don't see how installing something like this is dangerous. It gives the installer an opportunity to check the connections and make sure they're good.

Your PnP LED kits are nice, but pricey, and not everyone who owns a 2002 has $30k in it and is willing to drop $400 on some LED taillights.

They are great cars. More refined than 2002's or E21's. People bad-mouth the eta, but they really are great engines, they just don't rev very high.

All E30's are becoming harder to find, especially nicer ones.

As far as mpg, I'd say mid 20's around town, better on the road, or with a light foot.

Don't let them overheat, and don't forget to change the timing belt (every ~60-75k should be fine) and the engine will last forever.

I've always called it a Bundle of Snakes.

But, yeah, VERY cool.

I've got one on my 69 w/72 tii engine- the original V@V art car....