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  1. Hey all - I'm replacing wiring in my 1600 and the new (old) loom has a few connectors like the one pictured. This one is in the trunk and I don't know what connects to it. What are these connectors used for? Any reason to disconnect them ( and if so, how?) Thanks
  2. I was refurbishing my fuse box and my color coded label was old and dirty, making it difficult to tell what the colors were. I found this post and thought it was a great idea, but is was the wrong type for my 1976. I scanned in my label and using MS paint colored it in with nice bright colors. It is not as professional as Driv3r's but it does help. Print it on 8.5"x11" You may have to bump it up a 2-3% depending on your printer. Mine was 3%.
  3. I'm looking for either a new complete wiring harness, or where i could find one for a 76 2002 ca emissions. OR A USED INTACT harness to use as a reference to recreate it myself. I'm afraid of pulling my old brittle harness and having it fall apart which would make for a very poor reference. MOUSE ATTACKED MY HARNESS Under the fuse box, i was able to separate and reseal the wires and got everything working but am restoring the car and would hate to use this harness after all my hard work just to have to pull it out again!
  4. Day ~59 – 62 About 4 days of work Boring stuff Tidied up some more wiring and got things sorted out so that the battery was ready to be connected. I also installed the b-pillar gaskets and rear windows, with freshly painted window brackets… boooooring. Engine/Transmission/Front Sub-Frame Reunion I didn’t want to put the motor back in only to find out it was leaking from the oil pan because of the cork seal. So, I decided to change the cork seal for the paper version (with some RTV gasket sealant) as recommended by some members (BMW2002FAQ). I inst
  5. Day ~50-54 I figured the logical first step would be to install the sound deadening. I had purchased a bulk pack of Dynamat ‘Superlite’ on ebay in early 2015, when I grossly miscalculated my project’s timeline. I had decided on ‘Superlite’ to keep some weight off the ‘02. It was very easy to install and took me to about 5 hours in all, but I took my time. The next item on my agenda was to clean up some of the wiring, which included re-taping the old harnesses, removing the smog wiring and adding some new wiring. The new wiring would be used to power gauges (oil temp, oil pressure, w
  6. Cleaning up shop today and found the digital file for this diagram. We have a giant one laminated here at the shop. Don't bother emailing the address/company on the page, we've tried to reach them but no response (out of business?). Hope you all enjoy this, could be very helpful for some people. ed.pdf
  7. It feels like I hit a road block, and things have stalled, waiting on parts to come in like the new fuel pump and sending unit. It has really put everything in slow mo... With the wiring being possible the easiest thing to do it's kinda the hardest! C101 connector also came in but I don't want to use any of the old wiring, it just looks to be in bad shape.
  8. Thought I'd post a quick update. I finished up the wiring, built a relay bank, which is mounted in the trunk where the battery will go, and, finally, finished up the exhaust. Wiring mess. Thankfully, one night when it actually rained here, I went through the entire wiring harness, labelled everything, and removed some questionable additions and kill switches added by the previous owner. This mess has to get through two small holes on the driver's side firewall. Relay bank I built with Hella waterproof relays. The two right side relays are Derale relays that I am
  9. Started the harness re-taping and battery relocation. Using 1 inch cloth tape rather than attempting to cut down to 1/2 inch. The harness in the car was dry and flaky after 40+ years of heat. Used Simple Green to clean up the wiring as I went. The engine bay was taped using the cloth tape and I transitioned to flex-cover for the cabin and trunk harness which went on with a bit more ease. No concern for whether it is true to original just want it clean and simple. Mounted the AGM battery in the rear seat area, added the battery cutoff switch and ran the + cable down the driver side to exit the
  10. I'm finishing a rebuild and while the bay was left relatively straightforward regarding wires, I still can't figure out where they all lead. Specifically, I'm having trouble deciding which wires plug into where. Currently, I have two artery lines; one goes to the alternator and one comes from under the radiator coolant reservoir. The artery to the alternator (3rd photo) breaks off into 3 wires which consist of two connector plugs and one big obvious alternator plug. The other artery (1st photo) that comes from the firewall, breaks into two portions and seven connector plugs. Additionally, I'm trying to figure out how the main wiring connects to the battery. I have a cable going from the positive side to the battery, is there an auxiliary line from the main wiring to the battery? (2nd photo) Any advice/ resources are much appreciated. If there is anyone in Phoenix I'd love to compare engine bays!
  11. I did a LED tail light conversion over the weekend but I didn't realize the wiring harness that comes with the lights is a tad messy. For those that did the conversion, what did you do to tidy up this wiring?
  12. Hi - I'm struggling with my electrics, does anyone have a wiring diagram for a 1975 2002 auto UK/EURO spec - the HAYNES workshop manual doesn't have my model with the twin fuse set up with negative earth. Thanks
  13. So i got my car back from having the head/carb redone. Sounds incredible coming straight off the headers. I started the car to hear it run, shut it off to do some chores for my better half.... went out later to start it up for a curious neighbor and it turned over but didnt start... thats fine it was 3 degrees outside. I hit the key again and this time NOTHING.... the O and E lights remained on so i knew there was something happening electrical. Then i smelled it... electrical smoke.... then i heard the crackling... i looked down between the seats and the crackling and smoke was coming from below the ebrake handle. I jumped out of the car and removed the battery cables and it all stopped...phew. That is how it sits now since it was too cold to crawl underneath. When the car was dropped off, the driver was engaging and disengaging the ebrake quite a bit as he thought it was sticking. Is there a wire under the car there that would/could be shorting directly under the ebrak handle? Let me know if you have insight/experience with this and whether or not you need more information. Note, the interior is not installed so i was able to see into the hole in the tunnel where the ebrake is. Which is lucky because its probably the only reason i could hear/smell it. TIA
  14. I checked the archives, but couldn't find either the section that has wiring diagrams or a post that covers the terminals on the hazard flasher switch--and my factory manual picture is so small I can't read it even with a magnifying glass! Trying to track down why the flashers work fine but the turn signals work only intermittently. Substituting a known good hazard flasher switch makes everything work properly so I know the turn signal wiring and the flasher itself are OK, and the problem lies within the hazard flasher switch. Knowing the switch wiring might help me figure out if there are bad contacts in the switch, since the turn signal power feed goes through the hazard flasher switch. TIA mike
  15. A lot of my plastic insulators connecting wires to the back/bottom of my fuse box are cracked, or about to crack due to age. Is there any disadvantage to removing the plastic and replacing with heat shrink? Originality isn't a concern. I'm going for functionality/safety here. In my mind, heat shrink achieves the same purpose, but I'm new to electronics (read: I hate dealing with wiring). TIA
  16. I’m currently working through wiring on my ’72 tii. I’ve found some interesting work from the PO that I’m trying to fix. Two of the most interesting “quick wiring” is the yellow and red wires in the photo below that were sent straight to the fuse bracket vice properly wired. The yellow wire traces back to the radio plug, and the red wire traces back to the fog light relay. I’m not about to put it back together in the same configuration, as it isn’t visually appealing, nor safe. See attached edited wiring diagram for how the wires are routed, and see attached photo for visual on how the wires go straight to the fuse brackets. I also noticed that the double red wire on the no. 8 terminal, and double green wire on the no. 9 terminal are wrong, and should be on the no. 7 and no. 10 terminals, respectively (looking at the Haynes wiring diagram, and the Prospero’s wiring diagram). In the attached edited Prospero’s diagram, the arrows indicate how my car is currently wired. I have a couple questions based on these findings: Why would one switch the terminals at the fuse box for the double red, and double green wires? How should I safely wire in the radio plug wire (yellow)? Can I just remove the connector on the double green, include the yellow wire, and crimp on a new connector? I don’t see a radio listed on the wiring diagram (besides the one I just “drew” in), so where should the wire connect to the fuse box (or where does the radio get power from)? How should I safely wire in the fog light relay? Right now, the fogs are set to only get power when the headlights are on. They are turned on by using the green “dummy” switch that many people use for fog lights, but that switch doesn’t get power unless the headlights are on. I like that aspect of it, but don’t like the whole “wire straight to the fuse bracket” part. I’ve been searching on the forums, and will continue to do so, but this is my first time with getting deep into wiring. I like to ask y’all in addition to searching, because I almost always learn something new. Thanks in advance.
  17. Anyone know where to get the cable ties that hold the horn/lights wire harness to the radiator support? And while we are at it, what is the best choice for fabric tape to re-wrap the wires? I've checked with Maximilian and the cable ties are NLA. Internet searching turns up no cable ties close enough to look original.
  18. I am in need of a complete, and good condition wiring harness for a 1976 BMW 2002. Anyone know of one, or has one for sale please contact me 480-734-1367 Eric.
  19. I need some help diagnosing and fixing an electrical problem on my 1976 2002. After an evening drive last week, I noticed my dash lights were not working. When I got home, I also noticed that my right rear taillight and right front parking light were also out. I checked the fuse panel, and sure enough, fuse #8 (15a) was burnt out. I replaced it, and it popped as soon as I turned on the headlights (with the ignition off, btw). As a test, I tried a red (16a) fuse, and it popped. Then I tried a blue (24a) fuse, and watched it smoke and burn before I shut off the lights. Any ideas on what could be causing this, or how to diagnose and fix it? My knowledge of automobile electronics extends to changing bulbs and fuses! Thanks, Paulo
  20. Hey all, I'm going to be doing a M42 swap into my '02, but I'm a bit stumped on the electronics. Im pulling some parts out of a donor car (e36), what electrical components will I need to grab? I've already grabbed battery cables, and all of the electrical components in the engine bay are disconnected. But, the fuse box has a lot of cables running through the firewall into the dash of the donor car which aren't just a simple 'unplug'. Do I need any of that? I ask because it's going to be a big job taking apart the donor cars dash to get all that wiring out. My instinct is that it's not needed.. but when it comes to electricals I'm fairly hopeless! Thanks,
  21. I am not getting power to any of the following fuses: 7,8,9,10,11. I have checked my ignition switch, and verified that there is continuity in the on position. (All positions work as intended) All of my lights work, but I am not getting any voltage at the coil (which I believe is fuse #10). I've searched, but while others have had this identical problem, none of them list a solution. Any ideas?
  22. I have a 1974 tii body and wiring, previous owner fitted Mechtric Mechanics 150 HP engine with webbers. Trying to get it running and when I pull light switch fuel pump starts, ignition comes on and wiper motor gets hot, but key is off.Upon Inspection found some taped wires behind light switch also taped wires behind fuse box, could be some wires further down the loom are fried together. 1.Do we pull old main body harness out and strip. 2. Is the tii harness any different than the old style non fuel injection. 3. Do we replace the tii harness with an old style if so does anybody have one 4. Is there an aftermarket harness Thanks John
  23. Hello guys! I am doing a m44 with m42 injection swap on my oh2. All is done (almost)! The only thing I have to do is wire all this thing and it seems a big job for me. I need to know everything and all the steps to wire this. I saw the swap notes from jake but it seems like Chinese to me. Also, Ive got the harness of the m42 PLUS the harness of the m44. On the m44 harness, I dont have the coil wires. I dont see any cut wires tho. Can someone help me ? I would really like to drive this beast before the end of summer Thank you for your future answers !
  24. Hello guys! I am doing a m44 with m42 injection swap on my oh2. All is done (almost)! The only thing I have to do is wire all this thing and it seems a big job for me. I need to know everything and all the steps to wire this. I saw the swap notes from jake but it seems like Chinese to me. Also, Ive got the harness of the m42 PLUS the harness of the m44. On the m44 harness, I dont have the coil wires. I dont see any cut wires tho. Can someone help me ? I would really like to drive this beast before the end of summer Thank you for your future answers !
  25. Hi, My temperature gauge in the dash cluster is not working and there are no wires going to the temperature sensor on the engine. Can you tell me how to wire the temperature sensor and where the wire/wires connect to to make the gauge work? I feel like the engine runs hot and I cant tell when it's overheating. I've searched all over and haven't been able to find the answer. When I got the car, there were no wires going to the temp sensor. Also, I haven't been able to figure it out from the wiring diagram. Thanks in advance. Any tips will help.
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