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Found 20 results

  1. I heard from a buddy that he heard my car was being blasted the past couple days and was to be EP'd (epoxy primed) today. Last I saw it looked like this. I figured I had better see this for myself, primarily because I was considering going elsewhere since there had been no progress in about a month. I show up and this is what I see. Needless to say, I was happy as anything. So I shot a couple pics. JULY 10thth, 2013 So I visited the body shop today, July 10, 2013 and I felt like a Loomis or Brinks truck doing weekly drop offs of cash. Anyway, the dings and dents of 39 years have been banged out, and new life is breathed into the old girl. First coat of prime is on and needs to be blocked and some pits need to be tidied up. I see some #022 paint in the future, it'll be like a sunrise of sorts. Anyway some shots from today's visit. UPDATE July 24th 2013 So July 24th I head over to the shop and see this out back by the hedge, with no one in sight resembling a worker........ but I did seize the chance to snap a couple pictures of it since it was nice and sunny, so no flash etc.... I was a little disappointed with the standby that my car had been put on, but what can I do right? UPDATE August 1st, 2013 Today, I was scheduled to drop off some cash to get current with the progress. I stopped in around 10 this morning to not see my car anywhere inside, and thankfully not in the rain. I bumped into the paint guy and he said I got there in the nick of time as they were about to re prime it and he wanted to show the seam sealing and so on. I peaked into the booth and this is what I got to see and snap a couple pics of. Then the painters headed in to start priming. The window was pretty grimey .... so this is the best I could do capturing the action. When the first guy came out, I asked if they would get to some orange today. Well he said go grab a coffee and we'll be done orange and clear by lunch. I came back at 12:30 and they were cleaning their guns.
  2. I was hoping to upgrade my alternator to the 80A 318i M10 unit. My cousin had a spare long block and gave me the alternator from it. this is definitely not the original unit. I believe this is the 40 or 50 Amp"justy denso" unit? Not what I was hoping for but it was free so I guess I will give it a try and continue the hunt for the "elusive" 80 amp unit. Just wondering if it will work as well as how to wire it up properly. Thanks in advance!
  3. Hi, I'm still looking for oem struts to replace mine which's lower support mount is crumbling. Found this kit for a replacement: https://www.tdotperformance.ca/koni-1145-1141-1145-yellow-sport-lowering-kit.html Don't have much of a budget, but I hear H&R's is pretty good too: https://frsport.com/h-r-31202t-1-touring-cup-kit-bmw-2002-1966-1976 What do you think? Should I wait to find struts to rebuild oem setup or should I not bother at all and buy one of these kits? Oh and I'm rocking e30 bbs wheels which might get a bit close with lowering kits or too expansive coilover setups. Looking for a smooth cruise, no track days nor racing, simply driving comfortably. Thanks!
  4. Hello all, My '67 engine is tired and I am looking to upgrade to something with some more performance. The complete suspension has been upgraded and I feel could handle a decent HP increase. What is a good upgrade option? I gather a 2002 motor and tranny would be the simplest upgrade. That should be a simple replacement? How difficult would it be to upgrade to a 320 motor and something like that? Thanks for any input. I find the search engine for this site difficult to use. Any pointers would be appreciated. Paul
  5. Hey all, You may have seen all the photos from my plead for help; Here. Major carb troubles. I am looking for a complete, or parted out carb. Upgrades are welcome. Grinding, mods, manifold manipulation are not things id like to do. A sweet and simple fix preferably original to the car. Take a look at my post in the hyperlink above and reply/shoot me a message! I am mechanically inclined but not a mechanic or a super know-how. in fact, I am a semi-broke college student who has figured out how to keep a car on the road since my first car which was a 1976 2002 over 15 years ago. Help is much appreciated! steep prices are not a viable option for this guy though. Take care, GH
  6. cpdenby


    Price:: 100 Location: : Ontario Canada Wanted new home for a 1971 Nardi Wood Wheel with both course and fine thread hubs (for newer BMW's). Also have a wooden shift knob to boot (pun not intended) I am only a gmail away
  7. Price:: 235 Location: : Dallas A really cool upgrade from stock vinyl headliners. Looks better, installs better, can actually be installed without pulling front and rear glass Black suede headliner much like expensive Alcantera http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-20002-2002ti-Head-Liner-suede-type-fabric-/131419415221?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e993522b5&vxp=mtr
  8. Has anyone seen these headlights before, they look like some kind of projector setup inside the stock housing, possibly custom built.
  9. Price:: 800 Location: : phuket Thailand Hello again from Thailand I joined this Forum not long ago to sell 2 sets of Recaro seats. After two quick sales to two really nice members I have returned with another set of seats to sell. I hope to make a few more dollars and a few more friends. Thanks to all those who make this site run, it’s a cool place. This set of Recaro seats is of unknown origin, but I believe to be an lx model from the 1990s. 90’s lx models have the same recline knobs as the 2000’s models, the triangular shape with the rubberized coating rather than the round shape of the 1980’s. I have recovered this set in BMW textured vinyl. The center sections of the seats are perforated in the original Recaro style and I have stitched horizontal lines in the traditional BMW Recaro style. Below you can see pictures. Please feel free to request more pictures. I live very far away and its best to get all the inspecting done now. My seats are beautiful and I am not shy to show pictures of any area you request. Please note that the inside hinge cover plastic piece is not originally from this seat. Originally the plastic covered the lack of recline knob on the inside. But when I got these seats the plastic was missing. I replaced it with a Recaro piece of the exact same size and shape but with a hole for the recline knob. I fitted black seating material in this hole and it looks just fine. Please look at the pictures. If you really hate this I will keep the modified plastic pieces and discount the seats $25. You can pick up the correct pieces on ebay for about $40. I would order them to here but the import tax is too much and honestly I don’t really see the need. -Stitching is beautiful -Side plastics in good condition -Recline knobs- rubber shows wear but function just fine -Flip down levers in good condition -Under side mats show wear and age. One of the four rubbers has been patched with proper vertical stitching The center caps for the recline knobs are not in the pictures but I have ordered a set of second hand ones that will arrive at my house in just a few days. they are included with these seats Price: $800 Shipping cost: $230 Shipping time: 8-10 weeks Tracking number provided. Seats are shipped separately. Shrink-wrapped. 2 giant boxes with tons of foam and padding. I prefer money order as payment even though it takes a bit longer. But I will accept paypal, I know many of you prefer it for the buyer protection. If you pay by paypal I think the fees are about $25 and I ask that you pay that No, I can not discount the shipping cost. I actually loose money at that coat as the big boxes, bands, and foam gets expensive. Also, these headrests are the traditional bmw style, if you are interested in fish net style head rests, I should have a set coming to me in the mail this week. Send me a message. one more thing. Anyone have an e36 or e46? I have a set of sand color Recaro Speed seats made for an e46 I’m looking to sell too. I am also selling a set of Recaro SR2 seats with the BMW M colors stitched in the seams. I have seen these seats in 2002s before and the high wings look kinda cool. Im in the process of making my first set of waterproof jeep seats too. Send me a message if anyone has any custom seat requests. Thanks for looking!
  10. Hey Everyone! My first post with you! Super excited! Last weekend purchased my first 2002, a 1972 Fjord blue. Its rough but runs and drives great. I have been doing a once over on the engine to be sure its as reliable as possible. I noticed a coolant leak from the gasket on my waterpump. I have no prior knowledge of the history of the car and the cost of waterpumps it seems like if I was going to replace the gasket, I might as well replace the water pump (I live in Los Angeles and dont want to be stressing too much over cooling issues). I was wondering if there was a upgrade option to the water pump? Possibly a aftermarket company or posibly one from a later year bmw that used the e10. What does everyone else do/recommend? Thanks everyone!
  11. I have decided to keep it for a while longer.
  12. Anyone out there have the 320i components for the rear brake upgrade for the 2002? I know there are new components/kits out there, but would like to save some money if possible... Please let me know if you have the parts!
  13. Tried a quick search and I am not at home... I am interested in adding intermittent wipers to my 69 2002. It has the dash switch (no wiper functions from the right stalk) and currently a 71 wiper motor that I haven't been able to get the parking mechanism to work. The BMW instructions I got from Sherman Martinez with his retrofit to my 73 says it should be applicable to 1600-2002's but I'm not sure about the switch itself. Has anyone else done this? Last year at the rainy Vintage, I grew tired of turning the wipers on and off. I'd rather do this upgrade without something like adding a toggle switch. Sherman---any advice?
  14. Hi guys, I was after some information on brake master cylinders. I purchased a Wilwood brake upgrade (13") from IE to upgrade my 1973 BMW 2002 not too long ago, I also purchased the single line master cylinder as advised for ease of fitment. Just wanted to know if you could give me some direction on this part of the upgrade, switching from the stock double line system to the single line system and replacing the master cylinder. Any information is highly appreciated. Thank you for your time, Arlo.
  15. So I opened up a can of worms that the PO of my 74 Tii left me, It all stated with the alternator squeeling. I removed the battery to check out all the bushings and I found an alt that looked like the 318i upgrade but there was no PN/labels. It was cocked at least a good 5deg towards the engine because of the bushing he used to fill the space on the bracket. For my own sanity I decided to buy a new one from BRN that fit the Tii with no spacer: I cut the battery tray out and grabbed the stuff for battery relocation from an e30. However after they tray was out I could see a rats nest of wires the PO had added. I cut away all the junk that I could trace back, mostly to aftermarket mods. Now im left with stuff that im not quite sure about, if anyone can point me in the right direction it would be a huge help. First off, I have the old plug to my external voltage regulator which has the two blue wires cut and attached to a new plug: I assume this is safe to ditch? Secondly, the new plug: I assume I can just cut those blue wires off the crimp, solder a spade on and connect directly to my new alt D+ terminal? Lastly I have a ground that was bundled into this set of 3 black wires that goes into the harness down by the oil filter, any clue what they go to? Red and yellow are +/- for my alt, not in the same bundle.
  16. In the process of swapping to vented rotors, my master cylinder proved to be dead. I've got access to either a Centric or a Raybestos unit from Rock Auto, can anyone make a recommendation for which one I should choose? Does anyone have a better solution? I've decided to go with a tii-spec unit, though my car is a base model. Regards,
  17. Well, I messed up one of my stub axles getting it off the car. The splines have some pitting anyway which is way it took so much to get it off, so maybe this was no great loss, but it has me seriously considering upgrading to the billets axles that Ireland sells. There was some (unconfirmed at this point - links no longer work) talk of the billet stub axles breaking back in 2003 or so, but haven't seen or heard problems since. While I've come to consider these, which are hopefully overkill for a street car, I'm also looking at the turbo stub axles and it looks like cost-wise it's about a wash. The turbo bearing inner diameter is 30mm vs. the 28mm standard issue. The turbo pieces will cost more in the end if I have to buy them through Walloth Nesch, and pay VAT and probably some additional charges from converting funds I'd imagine. Here's how the turbo pieces are in reference to interchangeability per realoem.com: Turbo Stub Axles: 33 41 1 111 092 Turbo Stub Axles x2 specific to turbo $158.39 33 41 1 119 994 Turbo Bearings x2 specific to turbo and E21 $109.25 33 41 3 404 161 Bearing Seals x4 non-specific: all '02 and E21 included 07 11 9 945 270 Split Pin x2 33 41 1 111 094 Spacer Sleeve x2 specific to turbo and NK 2000 NLA $38 33 41 3 404 109 Spacer Sleeve x2 2002, TII - does not fit Turbo 33 41 3 704 135 Drive Flanges x2 specific to turbo and NK 2000 $232.84 ___________________________________________________________________ Don't absolutely need: 33 41 3 404 150 Crown Nut x2 non-specific: all '02, E21 & NK 33 41 1 118 731 Shim ? non-specific: all '02, E21 So, at the bare minimum, the parts add up to right around $1000, except that doesn't include VAT (possibly $159) and you don't get the space sleeves you need, or know what kind of shims you'd require. The billet stubs seem like they'd be less of a hassle with shims & space sleeves and I have the hardened Tii Drive Flanges 33 41 1 101 848 already. What am I missing here, if anything?
  18. what headlight upgrades do you guys have? and where did you acquire yours? if you got some pics post them up!! would love to see some of yo guys set up! Sealedbeamsmustdie
  19. Ladies & Gentlemen: I continue to slide down that slippery slope that is the front-end suspension on my 1975 BMW 2002. Turns out that drilling out the ball joint rivets while the strut is still attached is not ideal. I managed to get the passenger side done, but removed too much material from the control arm, so new control arms were ordered. Installed everything on the passenger side and decided that because I have a new control arm, why not just drop the strut with the control arm still attached to the ball joint for the driver's side. This was actually pretty easy, remove the caliper and brake lines from the strut and hang them out of the way, remove the upper and lower control arm nuts and the 3 nuts holding the strut bearing and with a little persuasion the whole strut assembly drops out. Pull the hub/brake disk off, remove the brake backing plate and this exposes the safety bolts that hold the pittman arm to the strut housing. Once the pittman arm was off, everything went smoothly until I noticed that the outer wheel bearing was damaged (bent cage). Ordered new wheel bearing kits, new disks and pads, and began cleaning up 39 years of brake dust. While I was staring at the naked spindles, I remembered that I purchased a set of used early 320i hubs and Volvo Girling calipers from an FAQ member several cars ago. The "kit" had new Axxis pads, studs, spacers, and lug nuts. All I needed to do the upgrade was a set of vented brake disks from a 1977 320i, and found these on eBay http://www.ebay.com/itm/370919736693?item=370919736693&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME:L:OU:US:1120&vxp=mtr for $60. I ordered them and they arrived the next day. While waiting for the stock brake stuff to arrive, I thought I would do some test fitting to see how these parts fit together and this resulted in some questions. 1. The spacers provided place the disk in the middle of the caliper, this doesn't address the need for the caliper to move closer to the center of the disk so the pad is fully on the disk. Do you mill/drill/dremel both holes or just the lower one so the caliper pivots closer to the center? 2. I'm about 1/4 inch off, how much material can I safely take off? 3. What is the downside to leaving this as is, significant reduction in braking power, uneven pad wear? 4. Will the stock backing plate fit? Do people run the big calipers with this plate on or off? Downside to leaving it off. 3. I remounted the bottlecap to check clearance. The caliper is fine, the tire seems to be rubbing slightly on the strut, see picture. To my dismay, the front tires are different manufactures, 1 Falken 195-60-14 and 1 Hankook 195-60-14, The Hankook rubs slightly in one spot, the Falken doesn't rub at all. The Hankook profile is more square. Is there an easy way to check if the rim is bent, or the strut is bent, or should I add new tires/rims to my growing list of things to buy? Thanks in advance for your comments, Mark92131
  20. Looking for a good break upgrade to go with m20 swap. I don't want and crazy break upgrade just somthing that will stop a little quicker handle the little extra power. I wanna also be cost effective.
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