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Found 24 results

  1. I am in the process of replacing the inserts in my front struts (first time for me). To remove the struts, I first dropped the pivot end of the control arm to make it easier to remove the inner bolt attaching the bottom of the strut to the steering arm. The struts are ready to go back in, but I cannot align the control arm with the pivot bolt to reattach it. It’s very close, but not close enough to get the pivot bolt started. Is this normal? Do I need to remove the entire control arm and reinstall it starting with the pivot bolt? The car is on jack stands, so I don’t have a lot of room to “muscle” the control arm in to position. I've tried clamps without success. I need help, please.
  2. Sorry, this is actually for the E30, but as usual R3vlimited help has been. . . limited, and I figure it's the same basic design as the 2002. Currently doing the front struts (were the factory strut shafts supposed to just fall all the way to the bottom of the housing under their own weight, I wonder?) but when I went to put back on the SPC camber/caster upper mount, I noticed a good bit of play in the bearing (see link to video below). It does not look like this bearing is replaceable, and I confirmed that I put back in one washer between the spring plate and the bottom of the bearing and between the top of the bearing and the nut. But before I drop $300-400 on a new set of camber plates, I'm wondering if maybe this play is supposed to be there in order to prevent things from binding up as the front wheels are turned. Also here's a link to the specific SPC mounts that are in the car, in case that helps. Interestingly, this doesn't show a washer on the top of the bearing, but I find it hard to believe that it's just the nut on the inner race up there. Thanks for any thoughts! http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/suspension/camber/72070_install.htm https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipPA0LTeOFU6nXca1IEAotM4ihBMe7eA46Gb2CP1
  3. Does anyone have a spare gland nut cap/cover that they can part with? I have the gland nut, but one of my struts had this "cap," shown below, but the other did not. Please PM me if you have one to spare. Thanks,Tony
  4. Day ~49 – Few little things and a Paint update (2016-05-23) Struts I removed the struts from the pit arms, I noticed that on the driver’s side 2 of 3 oem safety bolts had been replaced with standard bolts, so I ordered some. I painted the struts with some of the leftover POR15 I had. I gave it the usual treatment (grind, degrease, metal etch, por 15 coating). I couldn’t’ find safety wire locally (without using too much effort), but I did notice that Canadian tire sells stainless steal wire for “Hare trapping,” it does the trick. It was my first time “doing” safety wire. I used standard pliers, didn’t want to waste cash on those specialty pliers for a 1 time use. I (re-)realized that 1 of the 2 Track Rod’s studs, the one which connects to the trailing arm, wiggles. So I got online to quickly ordered a new one, should be delivered this week but I’m in no rush with the front sub frame. Brakes Since the brake were off the car, I decided that I might as well paint the callipers. I didn’t want them to stand out, so I went with black. I used VHT brake calliper spray paint. I had some left over so, I gave a shot to the rear drums. I also grinded down the brake brackets, used the metal etch and since I was out of POR15 I used some anti-rust spray paint. Velocity Stacks The custom velocity stack “manifolds” were only tack welded. Given they’re tight proximity to their mounting studs/nuts it would be difficult to weld around them without impeding the studs/nuts. I bought a Weber carburetor synchronizer and I feared without the velocity stacks being fully sealed I would receive a false reading. I used some Permatex “Steel Weld” to seal the cracks, it’s similar to JB Weld. Here’s a before & after Preppin’ Stuff I prepared an old patio table which I purposely didn’t throw out last year to spread parts on for the rebuild. I assembled some of the parts I had previously refreshed (loosely) and tidied up the space. . The Big Day (Monday May 23rd, 2016) The shell was finally ready to be picked up. I had previously used Burstall towing to deliver the car to the paint shop, for free (but I gave the driver a $20 tip and dropped off a bottle of Scotch for Mike Burstall to say “thanks”) plus I was didn’t want to use another of my father-in-laws “favours.” Frank from the bodyshop told me he had a guy who could do it for $90, it’s a long drive from Montreal North to Dorval. The tow truck driver was nice and the price was right. I’d recommend them to anyone who needs towing services (Remorquage Teo 514-968-6213). I’m happy with the paint. I will go pick up the hood and trunk lid once they’re ready, not too soon I hope. I starting washing the dust off the floor pan in preparation for the Dynamat (I went with Dynamat “light” because I want to keep the weight of this little guy). My son decided he was not going to be napping and I had to go “play” with him, so no work was done yesterday. Next steps, applying the dynamat + laying down the wiring.
  5. Put together the front subframe components in prep for installation down the road. Also refurbished, tested motor and added new cover to wiper mechanism
  6. My torsion bar never worked on my car so i recently set about to convert the hood to gas struts. I ordered 20" extended 30lb struts off amazon (12" closed) and 10mm ball studs https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Y3H1AQE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MXYP21F/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The top and bottom brackets are made out of 1 inch thick wall aluminum L bar. The bottom bracket is a 7 inch piece of L bar with an M8 hole to attach to the old mount and another M8 hole for the 10mm ball mount to attach. The Ball mount should be drilled towards the top so the strut can clear underneath as it rotates. The L bar was also bent slightly to push the ball stud 10mm closer to the engine bay and bolted in and stuck down with 3m tape. The top bracket is a straight piece of L beam 12 inches long. I used the end cap off the old torsion bar as a template to draw in my dill holes. The drill holes are situated to make the bracket angle backwards about an inch towards the hood. This raises the shock off the fender when closing the hood. The 10mm ball stud is just drilled in on the end. I added a 3/4 inch square cross brace to the hood to give the hood rigidity when opening and closing or else the hood tends to webble wooble when being opened or closed. The bar is 54 1/4 inches long and cut exactly to length the fit between the brackets. It is then bolted in place with a M8 bolt and nut and really makes a good difference opening and closing the hood. Be careful, the cross bar just clears the fender by 1mm so your hood clearances need to be spot on or the cross bar could hit the fender.
  7. My torsion bar never worked on my car so i recently set about to convert the hood to gas struts. I ordered 20" extended 30lb struts off amazon (12" closed) and 10mm ball studs https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Y3H1AQE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MXYP21F/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The top and bottom brackets are made out of 1 inch thick wall aluminum L bar. The bottom bracket is a 7 inch piece of L bar with an M8 hole to attach to the old mount and another M8 hole for the 10mm ball mount to attach. The Ball mount should be drilled towards the top so the strut can clear underneath as it rotates. The L bar was also bent slightly to push the ball stud 10mm closer to the engine bay and bolted in and stuck down with 3m tape. The top bracket is a straight piece of L beam 12 inches long. I used the end cap off the old torsion bar as a template to draw in my dill holes. The drill holes are situated to make the bracket angle backwards about an inch towards the hood. This raises the shock off the fender when closing the hood. The 10mm ball stud is just drilled in on the end. I added a 3/4 inch square cross brace to the hood to give the hood rigidity when opening and closing or else the hood tends to webble wooble when being opened or closed. The bar is 54 1/4 inches long and cut exactly to length the fit between the brackets. It is then bolted in place with a M8 bolt and nut and really makes a good difference opening and closing the hood. Be careful, the cross bar just clears the fender by 1mm so your hood clearances need to be spot on or the cross bar could hit the fender. View full article
  8. Hi Guys, Looking for driver quality set of Front Strut Legs or Towers. Shipping to Florida please. Thanks!
  9. crew

    2002 struts

    Set of struts. $50 obo. Pick up available or will ship for cost to buyer.
  10. Set of half shafts $50 obo. Pick up available or will ship for cost to buyer.
  11. Hi! I need to redo my front suspension first thing after the winter (i live in canada, so my beloved 1976 2002 sits in storage). I was searching the web for alternatives. Should I go OEM rebuild? I would need to buy new strut assemblies since they were starting to fall appart (1200 bucks each OEM). Or coilovers, where I think I could have something pretty good for 1500 bucks. Any suggestion for online shops with great prices and products? Thanks,
  12. Hi! Been looking everywhere for these: https://www.bavauto.com/bmw-strut-housing-31311101129 https://parts.bmwofsouthatlanta.com/products/Classic-BMW/1976/2002-Sedan-Manual/Spring-strut/1287430/31311101129.html But they are SO expensive. Excessively expensive. I was wondering if any of you had extras laying around you could sell. On mine, the lower spring support (the little cup thing) is falling appart due to rust and lack of care from the previous owner. I like the OEM ride comfort, but if I don't find anything I am going to have to go with coilovers or something. Thanks,
  13. Location: : Northwest Used Billy Struts HD's still have life. I'll take best offer+shipping contact me [email protected] Thanks Jim
  14. Does anyone know where these bolts go? They were in a ziploc with my four caliper bolts and I had written left/right caliper bolts so I'm assuming I took them off the calipers long ago but I cannot figure out where they go on the calipers or even if they are related to the calipers. I read a blog where someone said they messed up their struts not putting in a specific caliper bolt so if anyone has any insight/help I would be super grateful. Trying to get the brakes done this weekend!! Thank you for any help!!!
  15. (Big ticket item....) Selling a pair of new BMW 2002Tii front strut housings, with inserts as delivered from BMW. Never installed, spindles always protected and are perfect - just a few nicks on the labels and black paint. (note: price research was all over the place; at some places, cost for a single unit was equal to cost of this pair - offers considered if you find same available now for a bit less) Includes shipping cost of up to $50. Payment via cash locally or PayPal, fees paid by buyer. -KB
  16. We are unable to separate the shock cartridge from the Strut. Has anyone run into this in the past. Is there a secret bolt or way to separate. We are about to begin prayer and there's still the driver's side left to remove. Help!
  17. Hello! I recently acquired a 1975 BMW 2002 and I got all of the brake system replaced (expensive but awesome). The improved brake system has brought out the limitations and age of my "vintage" suspension. I am very confused on where to start to get parts for my suspension redo. I want springs, sway bars, bushings, struts, shocks, etc.... the whole shabang. I am looking for ANY guidance (websites, links, blogs), price is not a big problem (this is long term). I want to keep my ride height similar to what it is now and this is just a street driver (not a racer). I have found ireland engineering's kit. But it lowers the car 1 inch and doesn't include struts/shocks. Are there any other kits/options/etc? Are bilstein's best for shocks and struts? I'm sorry if this is a repeat post, but I can't find a post that is vague with links to websites and other options. Please! any help is much appreciated. I am going to do all of the work myself, please let me know!!!! Thank you for all the responses. -David
  18. Price:: 200 Location: : Thousand Oaks, CA I have a very nice set of Bilstein HD shocks and strut cartridges, as removed last weekend from my 1973 tii. They have been in use for about 2 1/2-years and 8,000 miles here in Southern California. I upgraded my stock suspension with a "H&R Cup Kit", which included supposedly matched shocks...though when I opened the box they sure looked like Bilstein's! Anyway, I'm selling these for $200 plus shipping. I can ship to anywhere in the USA for $35 by FedEx Ground. As you probably know, a new set costs $436 plus tax and shipping from Tire Rack... Thanks for looking!
  19. One set of tii struts, primed and painted. Spindles look good with a little rust. Bearings fit tight. Bilstein inserts were test fitted for straightness and gland nut tightened down to verify nut threads. Ready to install. SOLD One set of tii hubs is also available. Use as is with tii bearings/rotors/calipers. These can also be turned down to add vented disks and the e12 vented calipers. $125 Prices do not include shipping or any PayPal fees. Thank you
  20. Hello everyone I am trying to take out the shock absorber from front strut having a lot of failure.been using Channellocks no success and then tried heating up the cap/collar with propane torch and dumbing ice water on it still doesn't move. Need help please. also I used kroil a deep penetrating oil. Thanks
  21. Price:: 700 Location: : florida hello, selling Ireland engineering wildwood front big brake kit for Tii -- 15" wheels, come with the mounting brackets and hardware, and a pair of Tii shorten struts that were used with Irelands coilover kit. can ship via ups if needed. asking $350 for each
  22. Greets people - I have a few parts for hopefully local pickup in the Bay Area, CA. 1. [sOLD] '74 non-tii strut tube setups - comes with squishy shocks, springs and one free grey cap MAKE OFFER 2. USA Bumper kit - comes pre-collapsed with what I am 90% sure is at least 96% of the hardware. Accordion surgery by PO not sexy but fine for driver-purposes MAKE OFFER 3. Tire set - 4 Gremax 195 50 15s in fairly new condition. I ran them on 15x7.5s. Rubbed a little but barely any evidence on tire. I just do not do rubbing. MAKE OFFER 4. Sparco shift knob. 7 out of 10 condition MAKE OFFER 5. [sOLD] License plate bracket - FREE 6. [sOLD] Front side markers - FREE 7. Grant(?) steering wheel 13.5" [HUB is SOLD] MAKE OFFER ps: Thanks to all the people on this thing who have helped me fix stuff (knowingly or not). Very special resource and community. Darien
  23. Selling the following items from a 1972 BMW 2002, that I have been stripping down for my M2 build. Most are original parts and will fit early model year models. Strong preference given to local cash deals, but will ship smaller items at buyer's expense and larger items if sufficiently bribed. You can find pictures of most things here:http://denver.craigslist.org/pts/5686773991.html Original Steel Wheels 13x4.5" (I have one left, great for a spare): $30 Starter Voltage Regulator: $15 OEM Solex 32/32 DIDTA 2 barrel Carb with throttle linkage parts: $40 Complete Lower side trim (this is NOT belt line trim or rocker panel trim): $50 Emissions canister with bracket: $15/offer Rear passenger pull handles (the ceiling mounted ones) (L+R): $15/offer Intake ducting for air cleaner (in great shape): $30 Exhaust: Offer Rear suspension (subframe, control arms, struts, springs): Offer Items no longer available (shell is being reused and is not available): Beltline trim: SOLD Exhaust Header (with heat shield): SOLD Original Hubcaps (Set of 4): SOLD Intake Manifold (for two barrel carb): SOLD 4 speed manual transmission: SOLD 228mm Clutch/Flywheel: SOLD Driveshaft: SOLD Starter: SOLD Front Disk Brake Calipers: SOLD Front hubs/brake rotors: SOLD Front brake rotor debris shields: SOLD License Plate Lights: SOLD Original antenna: (plug damaged) SOLD Mechanical Fuel Pump: SOLD Engine Air Cleaner: SOLD Fan and Pulley/Hub: SOLD Radiator with hoses (Re-cored original): SOLD Hood: SOLD Alternator: SOLD Behr A/C System: SOLD Differential (stock): SOLD Engine long block assembly only: SOLD Front strut assemblies w/ struts, springs: SOLD OEM Engine Ground Strap: SOLD Steering Wheel and Shift knob: SOLD Battery Tray (very minor surface rust, but will clean up nicely): SOLD Coil with bracket (works fine): SOLD Side Marker or Rear Marker Reflectors: SOLD Front Turn Indicators (slight crack in one): SOLD Original driver side mirror: SOLD Seatbelts: SOLD Front and rear seats: SOLD Distributor: SOLD Front Fenders: NLA Front Grills: NLA
  24. Everything has been SOLD I'm selling a set of practically new Bilstein Sport Struts and H&R Sport lowering springs. Bought them brand new and only ran them on the car for 2k miles. Only reason for sale is because I got a great deal on a set of Ground Control coilovers. Everything you see in the pics is what's included. Bilsteins: $375 + shipping H&Rs: $200 + shipping Whole Package: $550 + shipping


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